TRENDING ON FINEHOMEBUILDING

previous
  • The Hobbit House and More
    The Hobbit House and More
  • All about Roofing
    All about Roofing
  • 9 Concrete Countertops Ideas
    9 Concrete Countertops Ideas
  • Remodeling in Action
    Remodeling in Action
  • 15 Coffered-Ceiling Ideas
    15 Coffered-Ceiling Ideas
  • Read FHB on Your iPad
    Read FHB on Your iPad
  • 7 Small Bathroom Layouts
    7 Small Bathroom Layouts
  • 7 Smart Kitchen Solutions
    7 Smart Kitchen Solutions
  • 2014 HOUSES Awards
    2014 HOUSES Awards
  • Clever daily tip in your inbox
    Clever daily tip in your inbox
  • Outdoor Kitchen Inspiration
    Outdoor Kitchen Inspiration
  • What’s the best decking?
    What’s the best decking?
  • 2013 HOUSES Awards
    2013 HOUSES Awards
  • Basement Remodeling Tips
    Basement Remodeling Tips
  • 12 Remodeling Secrets
    12 Remodeling Secrets
next
PRINT
Pin It

Build an Outfeed Table

This support for long stock also makes a great working surface

by Paul Levine
Click on the image above to download a plan for this outfeed table. Click on the image above to download a plan for this outfeed table.

I designed this outfeed table using typical core-box (also know as torsion box) construction. Starting with 4/4 poplar stock cut into a consistent width, cut all the stringers to the same length, and then cut the small crosspieces and ends. It’s easiest to assemble the core on a flat surface and to staple the parts together with a wide crown stapler at top and bottom.

It also helps to cut the top and bottom surfaces slightly oversize. These pieces can be made from either 3/4-in. plywood or from particleboard. Lay out the top on the flat surface, and then assemble the core on this part.

After stapling the top of the core together, place the second 3/4-inch sheet on top, and flip over the whole sandwich. Remove the 3/4-in. top of the flipped sandwich, and staple the other side of the core together.

With the core stapled together, run a bead of glue over the top edges, and staple the top to the core. This should be carefully marked so that no staples will fall into the area of the grooves for the saw’s miter guide. Flip the assembly, and do the same for the bottom. When the glue is dry, flush-trim all overhangs, and apply laminate to the sides and top. Then add a groove into the top surface for a miter guide.

Each leg of the outfeed table is made from four pieces of 4/4 stock butt-joined and glued and stapled together. By routing a groove on the inside faces of the narrow pieces, you can insert a crosspiece to provide a platform for the adjustable foot. Bore holes for the support brackets, and brace as needed to stiffen the assembly.

Brackets keep the door in placeThe support brackets are friction fit and support the door for mortising.While the door will sit unattended on edge, I usually clamp it in place (inset photo).
Click on the image above to download a plan for the support bracket.Click on the image above to download a plan for the support bracket.
To learn how Levine uses joinery and moldings to construct his doors, read Build Your Own Interior Doors from Fine Homebuilding Issue #192 (Dec 2007/Jan 2008), pp.54-55.
Photos by: Justin Fink
From Fine Homebuilding192 November 15, 2007
Related Topics:
Building | Window and Door Installation | Swinging Interior Doors | Tablesaws | Saws | Doors
Related Articles
Support When You Need It

This handy infeed support stores flat when not in useby Paul Levine

Extending a Tablesaw's Worksurface

An infeed support arm and outfeed table improve extra reach and stabilityby Paul Levine

A Custom Hinge Mortising Template

This time-saver helps to turn slabs into ready-to-hang doorsby Paul Levine

A Fast, Foolproof Method for Fitted DoorsOnline Membership Required

With plywood strips and hot-melt glue, you can make a template that guarantees a perfect fit by Chris Green

Production-Line Jamb Setting and Door Hanging

Time-saving techniques from the tractsby Larry Haun