previous
  • 10 Basement-Remodeling Tips and Techniques
    10 Basement-Remodeling Tips and Techniques
  • How to Figure Out Concrete Volume with Sketchup
    How to Figure Out Concrete Volume with Sketchup
  • Fine Homebuilding: The Digital Issues
    Fine Homebuilding: The Digital Issues
  • Replacing a Roof : Installing a Ridge Vent
    Replacing a Roof : Installing a Ridge Vent
  • Wanted: Plumber for a Bathroom Remodel
    Wanted: Plumber for a Bathroom Remodel
  • The Inspector Game: Goofs on a Roof
    The Inspector Game: Goofs on a Roof
  • How to Avoid Complicated Fractions
    How to Avoid Complicated Fractions
  • Patrick's Barn: A Perfect Place for a Party
    Patrick's Barn: A Perfect Place for a Party
  • VIDEO: Stop Paint from Bleeding
    VIDEO: Stop Paint from Bleeding
  • 7 Small Bathroom Layouts
    7 Small Bathroom Layouts
  • How To Make a Reciprocating-Saw Blade Guide Block
    How To Make a Reciprocating-Saw Blade Guide Block
  • The Self-Taught MBA: Inspired Reading
    The Self-Taught MBA: Inspired Reading
  • Seven Steps to Choosing the Perfect Circular Saw
    Seven Steps to Choosing the Perfect Circular Saw
  • Your Guide to Energy Smart Homes
    Your Guide to Energy Smart Homes
  • Top 10 Videos of 2011
    Top 10 Videos of 2011
next

Drywall without baseboard

Q: I’d like to forgo baseboard trim altogether and extend the drywall down to the floor. I’ve seen this design feature in contemporary homes, but I sure could use some tips and tricks. Can you help?


Brian Williams-Van Klooster, via email


A: Myron Ferguson, a drywall contractor in Galway, New York, and the author of Drywall, replies: I have done this in a few houses, but not for quite a while. It was popular in the 1980s as a cost-saving measure. I don’t think it’s a great idea for four reasons: (1) The baseboard protects the walls from vacuuming and feet. (2) The 1/2-in. gap at the floor created by using precut studs and pushing the drywall tight to the ceiling helps to prevent moisture from wicking up if the floor should get wet. (3) The gap also allows the building to settle a little after construction. If the drywall is fit tight, the seams may ridge or crack, or fasteners may pop. (4) It’s really a pain in the neck to detail.

If you still want to do it, split the 1/2-in. gap in two: 1/4 in. at the center of the wall where the tapered seam is and 1/4 in. at the floor to allow for settling. You’ll have to do some filling at the bottom of the wall so that the beveled edge won’t be visible after painting. Use a tapeable L- or J-bead along the bottom edge to help prevent any wicking moisture.


Floating walls can be achieved with drywall reveals. You still have to tape the bottom edge, but you install the drywall after the finished floor.Floating walls can be achieved with drywall reveals. You still have to tape the bottom edge, but you install the drywall after the finished floor. Photo by: Randy O’Rourke
From Fine Homebuilding 178, pp. 96 May 1, 2006