Where do you build cabinets?
comments (24) February 19th, 2010 in BlogsYou may already have read about the Built-in Build Off. This week we had a home builder, Gary Streigler, and a wood worker, Tony O'Mally in our shop. We asked them each to outfit a mock mud-room with built-ins of their own design and using the respective tools of their trades. We shot photos for articles in both Fine Homebuilding and Fine Woodworking and we shot video for both websites. Over lunch on Wednesday we asked Gary, Tony and some of the editors and web producers from both magazines to discuss the difference between a trim carpenter and a cabinetmaker. One of the obvious differences is where the two work: A home builder works on-site and a cabinetmaker in a shop. Right?
At Fine Homebuilding, we've regularly published stories on how to build cabinets including kitchens, book cases, hutches, window seats and beds. We've also held an assumption about these projects, that they needed to be built or should be able to be built on-site, with portable tools, because that is where our readers work, and those are the tools they have. Of course, when we put these parameters on a project, we limit the type of construction. Mortise and tenon joinery is much more likely to be used in a shop setting. Biscuits are likely to be found on-site. Well, this assumption has never sat well with me for a few reasons.
Are cabinetmakers any less of a "home builder" than a framer, trim carpenter, or plumber? If the kitchen is one of the most important rooms in a house, the cabinets are surely one of the most important components. Just because cabinets can be built on site, does that mean that they should be? I've seen some very nice site-built cabinets (particularly while visiting Gary), but I have a tough time believing that a biscuited frame-and-panel door will last as long as one that is built with mortises and tenons.
This blog is not meant to be an opinion on the best type of cabinet construction or to stir the pot. I'm just curious: Do you build your own cabinets? If so, to what degree? Do you build complete kitchens or just smaller built-ins? Do you build them on-site or do you have a shop? What type of joinery do you prefer and why? Finally, what would you like to see us cover in our next story about building cabinets? And would you mind if they were built in a cabinet shop instead of on a job site?
posted in: Blogs
-
How to Paint Fiber-Cement Siding
Painter Jim Lacey shares some tips for caulking and painting fiber-cement siding. read more

All How-To Topics












Comments (24)
Site building is equal in quality if you have the right tools (Festool has been mentioned many times here) and it eliminates the mistakes and damage that is part of building off-site and then moving and hanging heavy components.
I also think it costs far less to build on-site if you have good processes and the right tools. I mount the back panel square and plumb to the wall; pocket screw the shelves and ends to the back, and then pocket screw the face to the shelf fronts and the sides. I set-up a door manufacturing line and a drawer manufacturing line on-site and build those items very square, very accurate and very fast.
Three router tables and four routers help speed the process. I keep a separate router table for the cope bit, the stick bit, and a 1/4" drawer bottom bit. Tune the tools once, then let 'er rip!
Posted: 1:31 pm on March 10th
Thanks woodman72
Posted: 8:16 pm on April 5th
Now I have a small shop and can, if need be build bigger furniture and larger sets of cabinetry, but I still build and finish most of my work on site. Kreg, Festool, ZipWall, and a HVLP gun goes a long way to refining work onsite.
Posted: 9:43 pm on March 8th
Posted: 4:47 pm on March 3rd
Posted: 10:37 am on March 2nd
Posted: 11:06 pm on March 1st
Posted: 10:37 pm on March 1st
"I loved watching my grandfather work, and that's why I work with wood"
Posted: 9:31 pm on March 1st
At the same time, the labor rate in a quality cabinet shop in my market was less than $40K, all-in, and the shop would install what they built. Let the shop fix the "measure once, cut it wrong the first time" errors and also let them pay for a $1,000+ of Grandma's china when the cabinet falls off the wall.
Just in time buying wood a hundred board feet is not the same as buying a thousand board feet ahead of production. A homebuilder can never compete material cost wise with a well financed cabinet shop.
Do the math.
Posted: 1:36 pm on March 1st
As a footnote, I've moved to Ojai CA and am in the process of building a new shop. I still have to travel back to the valley for work. It takes time to build a local customer base so I have to go where the work is. It ain't easy but it's better than twittling my thumbs, complaining about the economy and arguing politics.
Posted: 1:15 pm on March 1st
My preference is to do all the work at my shop but ... the customer is king.
Posted: 12:37 pm on March 1st
Stain and finish is applied in shop, including white or black lacquer. Paint is usually applied after construction is complete, although I have sometimes applied primer and first coat and sanded it in the shop, and this makes for a much better paint job, especially if I'm not painting the finished product, which always makes for an extra trip after the painter is finished to install the doors, drawer fronts, and hardware.
Final assembly is in place: Hanging units first, then wiring, trim (cut in as necessary), and crown, then doors. Then base (if separate), level, install units, then face frames, and then top (if wood). Upper bookshelves or display units stack on next, followed by crown. I use jigs to install drawer glides, drawer fronts, and doors. Love the Kreg jig system. Last is hardware pulls. Integrated pulls are part of the door or drawer front and are made in shop.
Note that I like to get crown up as soon as possible so that I am not working over things that are expensive to damage.
Most of my work is in existing houses, while folks are living there, so speed of installation and cleanliness are very important.
Posted: 11:29 am on March 1st
Posted: 10:22 am on March 1st
This is just my opinion not as a cabinet maker but as a woodworker l make to date mainly shelves, book cases, coffee table/end table sets, patio items.
But l would think cabinets if custom built be better built in a shop unless the cabinet maker had on site garage to use and had all machines he/she needed.
If your installing cabinets you assemble from a box store then l guess on site be ok but l like to think most strive for quality first priority is how l am anyway.
For your next issue, l would like to see detailed step by step kitchen cabinets being made with good text details beside each step by step process.
I am sure their are many readers like myself beginners who would like to see even a set of kitchen cabinets say 10 ft of uppers and 10 ft base kitchen cabinets layed out step by step.
As an example l myself need to urgently make a 36 inch base sink cabinet for my daughter living in front of my house presently no cabinets or kitchen sink above info be great.
Thanks
Jim
Posted: 9:53 am on March 1st
Posted: 9:25 am on March 1st
Posted: 10:58 pm on February 25th
What many of the comments regarding finishing is true - getting a good spray finish in the field is near impossible.
However this summer I worked on a volunteer project where we built a temporary shop and a spray booth inside a commercial building and fabricated all the cabinets and trim for that job right there in the building. If you didn't know, you wouldn't be able to tell where that woodwork came from.
As for my own projects, I know the limitations of my equipment for site use, an I build cabinets with that in mind. Much of it is simply paint grade, or will be stained and finished by hand, often duplicating old finishing techniques before spray booths. We use pocket joinery, biscuits, dowels; simpler than mortise & tenon. using router tables we can make just about any profile we need for a job,and all my clients have been very happy with the outcome.
Its fun.
but I still wanna shop!
Posted: 1:00 pm on February 25th
You can do it but especially when it is a remodel or being installed in a home that people are already living in you can not spray post catalyzed lacquers. They require a spray booth with very good ventilation.
I have even gotten to he point I have all stain grade trim pre-finished before I install it.
But there are all different grades of cabinets. It really depends on the level of cabinetry you are talking about.
There is this level:
http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/articles/site-built-kitchen.aspx?nterms=61656,61710&ac=ts&ra=fp
and then this level:
http://www.drdimeskitchens.com/
Posted: 10:45 pm on February 24th
Also a big part of what I do is paneling it is assembled on site but the panels and stiles and rails are all milled in the shop. Including Mortise and tenons. Unless you have a complete mobil work shop you simply can not mill all those parts on site. You need jointers, planers, shaper (or large router table) And you need to control all the saw dust those tool create. Now you could setup a onsite mill shop but most job sites do not have that kind of room. And you are not going to take the time to do it all by hand without any stationary tools
Also you have focused only on building the cabinetry but it is not done until the last coat of finish is applied and I get the best finish with furniture grade spray finishes and the best place to apply that type of finish is in a spray booth. No dust to mess it up and proper ventilation. Every piece including all the trim is pre-finished before it is installed.
Sure you can build somethings onsite but in my opinion is assembly can be done on site but anything that requires milling parts and finishing should be done in the shop.
Posted: 9:30 pm on February 24th
Posted: 6:34 pm on February 24th
As far as considering where to build your cabinets and how that affects construction techniques it really doesn't change how I build my cabinets or built-in units. I still use pocket hole jigging and biscuits ( maybe one day I can move up to the Domino from Festool but until then my trusty PC plate joiner works great ) combined with glue and clamps. You're not going to find a great number of people willing to pay the extra money for older and stronger construction techniques like motrise and tenon. If all the pieces are prepped and jointed properly a stationary cabinet/built-in constructed with those techniques will hold up just fine IMO
Posted: 7:40 am on February 24th
Posted: 8:26 pm on February 22nd
Posted: 1:00 pm on February 21st
Posted: 2:23 pm on February 20th
You must be logged in to post comments. Click here to login.