• Clever daily tip in your inbox
    Clever daily tip in your inbox
  • Design Inspiration
    Design Inspiration
  • Magazine Departments
    Magazine Departments
  • Remodeling Articles
    Remodeling Articles
  • Basement Remodeling Tips
    Basement Remodeling Tips
  • 9 Concrete Countertop Ideas
    9 Concrete Countertop Ideas
  • Master Carpenter Videos
    Master Carpenter Videos
  • All about Roofing
    All about Roofing
  • 7 Small Bathroom Layouts
    7 Small Bathroom Layouts
  • 7 Smart Kitchen Solutions
    7 Smart Kitchen Solutions
  • Energy-Smart Details
    Energy-Smart Details
  • Video Series: Tile a Bathroom
    Video Series: Tile a Bathroom
  • Deck Design & Construction
    Deck Design & Construction
  • 7 Trim Carpentry Secrets
    7 Trim Carpentry Secrets
  • Install a Vinyl Privacy Fence
    Install a Vinyl Privacy Fence
  • Tips & Techniques for Painting
    Tips & Techniques for Painting
  • Radiant Heat Comparison
    Radiant Heat Comparison
  • Read FHB on Your iPad
    Read FHB on Your iPad
  • Ultimate Deck Build 2015
    Ultimate Deck Build 2015

Shoring up a load-bearing wall

comments (2) January 31st, 2011 in Project Gallery
rwotzak rwotzak, Web Producer

Click the thumbs up button above to vote for this tip. Help us choose Fine Homebuildings top-10 window and door tips. Click To Enlarge

Click the "thumbs up" button above to vote for this tip. Help us choose Fine Homebuilding's top-10 window and door tips

Photo: Drawing by Chuck Miller

When I need to install a header for a new window or door in a bearing wall, I shore up the wall with a temporary row of angled 2x4s alongside the existing wall. As shown in the drawing, the temporary wall bears on top and bottom plates that are screwed to the ceiling and floor. After the plates are set, I wedge 2x4s that are a couple of inches longer than the distance between the plates into the pattern shown in the drawing. I drive a nail through the base of the first stud. Then I persuade the rest of the studs into position. This action doesn't take a lot of force, but the studs should be tight to one another.

The last stud gets a nail through its base into the bottom plate to keep the row in place. This system works well for me without wasting any studs, very few nails and a minimum of installation effort.


Christopher Norell, Greenbrook, NJ 

From Fine Homebuilding 117, pp. 30


posted in: Project Gallery, framing, windows, doors
Back to List

Comments (2)

Shaniqua17 Shaniqua17 writes: It seems like that would leave a lot of holes to fill. Do you ever have a problem with shoring an already finished wall? The angular placement of the boards looked really sturdy, though.
Posted: 5:04 pm on August 17th

timbervalley timbervalley writes: Ingenious idea - we tend to assume studs have to be plumb and therefore cut to exact length. However I would be leery of not fastening every stud top and bottom to prevent accidentally dislodging one or more - duplex nails are easy to remove as are screws. Perhaps you intend such fastening - it wasn't clear.
Posted: 6:13 pm on February 13th

Log in or create a free account to post a comment.