Shim gauge - Fine Homebuilding
previous
  • Tips & Techniques for Painting
    Tips & Techniques for Painting
  • Video Series: Tile a Bathroom
    Video Series: Tile a Bathroom
  • Read FHB on Your iPad
    Read FHB on Your iPad
  • Magazine Departments
    Magazine Departments
  • Install a Vinyl Privacy Fence
    Install a Vinyl Privacy Fence
  • Energy-Smart Details
    Energy-Smart Details
  • Master Carpenter Videos
    Master Carpenter Videos
  • 7 Trim Carpentry Secrets
    7 Trim Carpentry Secrets
  • Basement Remodeling Tips
    Basement Remodeling Tips
  • Radiant Heat Comparison
    Radiant Heat Comparison
  • All about Roofing
    All about Roofing
  • Design Inspiration
    Design Inspiration
  • Clever daily tip in your inbox
    Clever daily tip in your inbox
  • Remodeling Articles
    Remodeling Articles
  • Ultimate Deck Build 2015
    Ultimate Deck Build 2015
  • 7 Smart Kitchen Solutions
    7 Smart Kitchen Solutions
  • 7 Small Bathroom Layouts
    7 Small Bathroom Layouts
  • Deck Design & Construction
    Deck Design & Construction
  • 9 Concrete Countertop Ideas
    9 Concrete Countertop Ideas
next


Shim gauge

comments (6) January 31st, 2011 in Project Gallery
Click the thumbs up button above to vote for this tip. Help us choose Fine Homebuildings top-10 window and door tips. Click To Enlarge

Click the "thumbs up" button above to vote for this tip. Help us choose Fine Homebuilding's top-10 window and door tips

Photo: Drawing by Chuck Miller

In home building, square, level, and plumb are admirable goals, but we sometimes fall a little short of the ideal. As a consequence, we turn to shims. They are vital for adjusting the fit of prehung doors, banks of cabinets, and custom built-ins, or for just about any other finish-carpentry task. Traditional tapered shims are nice because they can be adjusted incrementally to ensure a perfectly plumb or level installation. To me, though, this benefit is also their downfall. Because the face of the shim is tapered, the object I’m adjusting ultimately is resting on only a sliver of the shim, rather than bearing on its full surface.

To remedy this problem, I filched an old stairbuilder’s trick by making a gauge to measure the size of the gap I’m trying to fill. As shown in the drawing, I cut a scrap of wood into the shape of a thick shim. Then I marked the points on the shim where it diminished in size by 1/16 in. with numbers and contrasting bands of color so that they are identified easily.

Now I can slide my shim gauge between a door jamb and a king stud until the prehung unit is plumb, look at the depth indicated on the gauge, and rip a flat-face piece of stock to the exact thickness I need.


Justin Fink, Glastonbury, CT 
From Fine Homebuilding 185, pp. 30

 


posted in: Project Gallery, windows, doors
Back to List

Comments (6)

marvinCarlin marvinCarlin writes: i will follow this
Posted: 5:07 am on June 13th

LoriMorin LoriMorin writes: good for measurement
Posted: 5:38 am on May 22nd

JeremyCoats JeremyCoats writes: nice share
Posted: 2:39 am on May 21st

KateMcKinney KateMcKinney writes: great work
Posted: 1:38 am on May 19th

darrylchad darrylchad writes: super cool
Posted: 3:25 am on May 12th

lindalan lindalan writes: Geez, How long does it take you to hang a door?!

Yes, shims are tapered. Thats why carpenters use one from each side.

I generally use about 6 shims per jamb plus 2 or 3 for the head. If you're sawing 14 or more shims, of which many or most are different, you're adding a lot of time to a 20 minute job.
Posted: 6:16 pm on March 22nd

Log in or create a free account to post a comment.