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Make A Custom Hole Saw To Remove Stripped Screws
comments (5) July 1st, 2011 in Blogs
Chuck Miller, editor at large
Video Length: 3:00
Produced by: John Ross, Edited by: Mike Dobsevage
If you need to pull a bent screw or busted nail from a piece of wood you want to save, you could dig it out with a cat's paw, but there's a better way.
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How to make a hole saw from a golf-club shank
This tip from comes from Don Stevenson from Woodland, Washington. He created a little narrow hole saw to dig fasteners out, made out of the shaft of a golf club. The hole saw leaves a clean hole that is easy to patch or plug.
Don starts by using a hack-saw to cut small kerfs in the end of a short section of an old golf club shaft, and then filing the kerfs to make small teeth. Lastly, Don uses a punch to flare the teeth out for a cleaner cut.
To use this mini hole saw, Don makes a guide block with a hole the same diameter as the golf club shaft, and clamps it over the screw so that the hole-saw has something to guide it into the work piece. Once the guide block is aligned over the screw, he clamps the work piece down, and drives the hole saw through the hole in the guide block. Once the screw is removed from the wood, he uses a long screwdriver to eject the plug from the end of the hole saw.
In testing Don's tip, we found that a chrome golf club shaft can be slippery, and it may be difficult to get a drill chuck to get a hold of it. Placing a wrap of masking tape on the end helps secure it in the chuck.
Another helpful tip: Cutting kerfs in the tubing is difficult. To make this task easier, make a feather clamp. Take a thin scrap of wood, drill a hole the same diameter of the tube, and cut a kerf down the center of the hole in line with the grain of the wood. Slide the tube into the hole in the scrap and clamp the wood into your vice. With even pressure all the way around the shaft, your vice should grip the tube well without crushing it.
posted in: Blogs, saws, drills and drivers, Better-Way
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How to Paint Fiber-Cement Siding
Painter Jim Lacey shares some tips for caulking and painting fiber-cement siding. read more
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About this Blog
Have your ever been frustrated building something and mumbled to yourself, "There's got to be a better way."
Well, thanks to the contributions of our great Tipsters, and the talent of Fine Homebuilding Special Issues editor, Chuck Miller, help has arrived.
Each week, Chuck demonstrates a tip sent in by readers like you or something he learned on a jobsite.
So enjoy, and don't forget to come back each week for a new tip.
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Comments (5)
Posted: 9:30 am on July 6th
glad you liked the tip--thanks for saying so. Here's a link to the vest,
http://bestbelt.com/product/belt-free/2585_beltless.html
best,
Chuck
Posted: 7:19 am on July 5th
But really what I want to know is: "What is the brand/maker of that tool vest you are wearing.. and where can I get one?
I've done a google search and several come up... but not like the one Chuck Miller is wearing.
So if anyone knows... shoot me an email: zargondesigns@mac.com
Thanks!
Zargon in HotLanta
Posted: 7:02 am on July 5th
Posted: 10:39 am on July 4th
Golf club shafts are standard sizes at the tip...where the shaft seats in the hosel of the club...Iron shafts are .375 and wood shafts are .336. Modern shafts are parallel at the tip, but you can also get tapered shafts. A tapered shaft might work better as a "drill bit".
Second, a better way to cut the "teeth" is to use a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel.
You can also buy pre-made hole saws made for removing stripped threads, but that's not as much fun. ;-)
Posted: 7:19 am on July 4th
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