Eliminate Concrete Cracks with a Well-Prepared Base
comments (0) February 24th, 2009 in Blogsby Mike Guertin
• The soil must be well drained, especially in frost-prone regions. Remove any organic material (wood, leaves, tree roots). If possible, I dig out any large rocks within a foot of the surface.
• If the soil has problems, it’s better to remove the unsuitable material and place at least a 12-in.-deep bed of gravel beneath the slab area, extending it about a foot beyond the forms. (Also note that the IRC 2006 Section R506.2.3 requires plastic to be laid beneath slabs under certain circumstances.)
• Compact the base evenly by running a plate compactor over the top of the existing soil or at 6-in. to 8-in. intervals of any replacement fill. Another way to consolidate the base is to water the area generously a couple of times a day over the course of several days.
• Avoid placing a slab in any area that has been backfilled recently, such as the perimeter of a basement foundation. Unless the site was mechanically compacted at 6-in. to 8-in. intervals during the backfilling process, surface compacting won’t be enough to prevent settling of the deeper soil. It’s best to wait a year or more after backfilling to place concrete in these areas.
• A patio base should be sloped away from the foundation and graded evenly. Water drains well from a slab at a slope of 1⁄4 in. per ft. High spots and low spots create strong and weak areas in the slab. After compacting, knock off high spots, and fill in low spots so that the entire area is within 1⁄2 in. of grade.
• Finally, if the weather is hot, keep the base wet. In winter, rake calcium chloride into the soil to lower the soil’s freezing point.
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posted in: Blogs, foundations, outdoor spaces, concrete, basement, patio
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