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The Daily Fix

Do copper countertops belong in a kitchen?

FHB_WEB, member

91 users recommend

Copper countertops are a good midprice alternative to slab stone.

Strategic seams

Plywood support

Copper countertops are a good midprice alternative to slab stone.

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(Editor's note: Since publishing this article, many readers commented on the pros and cons of using copper in the kitchen. After reading the article below, why not join the conversation in the comments section below?)

by Chris Stebbins

Copper countertops are a good midprice alternative to slab stone. They have the benefit of minimal joints because the backsplash and the nosing are integral to the copper’s profile.

Any seams would have to be butt joints (two pieces glued edge to edge), so I try to minimize them from the start. I lay out the counter by designing the seams to coincide with natural breaks, such as drop-in cooktops, sinks, or inside corners. I keep counter sections to 8 ft. or less because the material distorts easily at longer lengths.

I’ve resolved the butt-joint problem by turning the counter edges down 1⁄4 in., as shown in the drawing. This design leaves a clean, soft joint that seals easily with clear silicone caulk. I cut a kerf in the 3⁄4-in. plywood substrate at every seam to allow for the turned-down edge.

Read the complete article... A Low-Budget, High-Impact House A design/build team delivers a custom house with copper counters, oak floors, travertine stairs, and a great outdoor space for $126 per sq. ft. by Chris Stebbins

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Comments (19)

dac777 writes: We recommend contact cement to adhere the copper to the substrate. It works very well. Liquid nails also works.


Don Angelo
www.ColorCopper.com
Posted: 12:15 pm on May 6th

countertops writes: Surface marble.
Posted: 7:45 am on March 1st

countertops writes: In this article published a good design solutions for the kitchen
Learn more about countertops: http://www.livingstonesurfaces.com/
Posted: 7:45 am on March 1st

PAfarmhouse writes: Had copper installed at my reno by an awesome carpenter and a roofer. They look great, hardened foods can be taken off with a little water soak and a teflon scraping blade (made for pots and pans). Any etching or discoloration patinas over in a day or so, matching the rest of the countertop.

My problem is: over the past 2 months the substrate countertop must have dried out and shrunk in the dry winter weather. The overlying metal has formed bulges in spots down the length of the counter, even popping off the heavy duty construction adhesive holding it down.

Is this a shrinkage issue that will work itself out with humid summer weather? Or something else? Is there an adhesive that will work better than the all-purpose linoleum glue that we used?

I wouldn't want to trade these countertops for anything. They are durable and practically maintenance free. Any ideas?
Posted: 8:41 pm on December 26th

ozarkmike writes: I'm currently working on Cabinet doors with copper panels and want to seal the copper with a clear sealer .what should i use ?? have any of you had success with a sealer ??not interested in any oils , or the pitena look looking for shiny everlasting .
I also have built copper counter tops and built them the same way you would build a plastic laminate top.. useing contact cement and they have held up now for 12 yrs .. I even router them to fit but wear long sleeves and safty glasses ...
Posted: 1:07 pm on April 24th

Cromagnonmatt writes: The brand new copper color is great and the aged patina would prevent an out of style look (for me at least). However I wouldn't worry about olive oil supporting bacterial growth on the counter, pure copper has natural antimicrobial properties and kills bacteria like staph, E coli, and Pseudomonas within two hours; an added bonus in my opinion.
Posted: 6:12 pm on April 15th

artisto writes: intelligent followup pts
Posted: 2:56 pm on April 15th

jenber writes: I worked in a restaurant that had copper tables. They were beautiful copper to begin with and with in a year or so they had a patina that was nice yet really rustic. They were not a uniform color due to acidic spills, scrubbing and general use. The high traffic environment made them nice but I think they would be splotchy in a house and not wear well. They would make a nice accent piece such as a wet bar or accent counter top on an island. They do get dents and nicks and spots from kitchen use.
Posted: 11:44 am on April 15th

JoeKB writes: To quote the ranking Queen of our domicile, "This ranks right up there with those ugly stone counters the young and foolish prefer. Wouldn't have one."
She has a good point. Years ago metal counter tops were used in kitchens but the metal was zinc sheet. Advantages, much stiffer, byproducts from food corrosion aren't poisoous (copper is) and easy to form in place.
Bottom line, laminates rule, fashion is for fools. The world is changing and we need to moderste our spendthrift ways.
Posted: 2:51 pm on April 14th

MasterSparky writes: Because copper is a good conductor of electricity you may want to ground it so it can not be energized by outlets or appliances even though they might be GFI protected.
Posted: 10:44 am on April 14th

FHB_WEB writes: @CarletonPope -- The price a few years ago was in the ballpark of $27-$30/foot, but the price of copper varies.

@Asturiano -- good point about the olive oil. I know chefs add olive oil to pans to prevent rust, but then again, they are heated over and over again.

and interesting points about grounding and seaming.
Posted: 10:02 am on April 14th

808Dave writes: Appealing idea and looks good [new], but yes, lacking in detail and clues about the aging process.

I'd be absolutely sure to ground this countertop, for one thing, and not rely on the sink to do so (even if the sink is indeed metal).

I'd also want to know what happens when someone naively breaks up a bag of ice, frozen chicken-wings, etc on the surface...wouldn't it end up pebble-finished and/or distorted, as the metal stretches?

The photo of the 'turned down' seam doesn't appear to represent the described 'sitting seam' (hooked into the kerf, the description seemed to be) as shown in the adjacent drawing - photo looks instead like a lap-seam, from the lump. I like the kerfed seam idea - and if I were to build this, I would solder that and any other joints [without a flame]...along with a hidden ground wire...
Posted: 4:06 am on April 14th

jrsl writes: Ommited from my comment previously, the thickness of the two sheets of plywood are 5/8" each, with a 1/2" bar on the underside of the inside edge.
Posted: 3:14 am on April 14th

jrsl writes: I understand the appeal of copper counters when newly installed, but have to wonder how their appearance might change over time in a working kitchen. Copper is a soft surface relatively speaking; how does one remove such goop as dried egg yolk, for example? I suspect that a stiff plastic scrub brush or wooden scraper will mar the surface, bringing on a future riddled with angst over caring for a counter top.

The author suggests installing 3/4" ply as the base for the copper, which is a step up from the usual counter base of 5/8" hard board. Whatever the surface material, my practice is to glue and screw together two sheets of plywood, the upper surface to be GIS. The outcome is very solid feeling, and sounding, counter top that clients really appreciate, and that will easily span large lower cabinets. Build and fit counters separately rather than in place, and instal all screws - construction and installation - from below upwards, and not down through the GIS.

Note that the author has not added a 1/2" strip of wood behind, and at the top of, the backsplash that is usually necessary as a fitting strip to assure a tight closure against the wall. A good fit is often completed thro' careful application of a belt sander, and given the softness of copper, ought to work in this situation as well.
Posted: 3:08 am on April 14th

CarletonPope writes: What kind of cost are we looking at?
Posted: 12:20 am on April 14th

Asturiano writes: Olive oil? On a kitchen counter top? No, olive oil can support bacterial growth. You should only use a mineral oil on food preparation surfaces.
Posted: 11:40 pm on April 13th

schneis writes: For a "How To" article, I'd expect a bit more detail.
Posted: 5:53 pm on April 13th

FHB_WEB writes: @cvuxton -- I'll check with the author and post the gauge of copper used.
Posted: 4:47 pm on April 13th

cvuxton writes: This looks great. What gage copper did you use?
Posted: 2:53 pm on April 13th

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