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Reader Feedback: Fine Homebuilding Issue #202, April/May 2009
comments (2) February 26th, 2009 in Blogs
Robyn Doyon-Aitken, producer
3 users recommend
Disappointed with radiant-floor article
I read with interest and a bit of disappointment Scott Gibson's article "Warm Floors on a Tight Budget" (FHB #201), which I believe missed the mark in a number of areas. Perhaps the biggest miss was in not focusing on the big-picture view of cost. We always tell our clients to budget between $10 and $15 per sq. ft. for a completed radiant system, including all costs. That‘s about $5 to $10 per sq. ft. more than a forced-air system. But if that difference is amortized as part of a mortgage, the energy savings with a high-efficiency radiant system (in most northern states) will offset the higher cost, with radiant comfort thrown in as a bonus.
Your article left the impression that the cost of radiant could be lowered from $14 per sq. ft. to about $4 per sq. ft. in material cost, plus an undetermined amount of labor, by ordering materials over the Internet and by using an open-direct system (potable and hydronic water intermingled). That material cost would be true only for a plateless staple-up tubing setup, the most labor intensive and least energy efficient of all radiant systems. For any reader who is not a do-it-yourselfer, the total installed cost will be double or triple that $4-per-sq.-ft. number, and with energy costs factored in, this could in fact be one of the most expensive radiant systems over the long haul. So much for a tight budget.
Regarding open-direct systems, you correctly pointed out that there is less than a consensus on the risks of Legionnaire's disease associated with these systems, but the arguments concerning the risks of open-loop systems are well reasoned and cannot be easily dismissed. At most, an open system might save about 50¢ per sq. ft. in material costs, compared with closed-loop systems. Considering the nontrivial risk of Legionnaire's disease and considering that most radiant homes have a total construction cost of over $150 per sq. ft., I cannot imagine the logic behind taking such a risk to save less than 0.3% of construction cost.
Your readers deserve more complete information. Fine Homebuilding should revisit the subject of low-cost radiant with a more comprehensive article.
—Terry Alsberg, CEO, Warmboard Inc.
"Taking Issue" shows contempt for freedom
If Alex Wilson believes that an apple a day is a good idea, he is free to persuade me to switch from bananas ("Taking Issue," "Fixing our homes can help fix our country," FHB #201).
But like many other petty tyrants with hundreds of such crusades on many issues, he doesn't trust my judgment or that of 350 million other citizen sheep. His idea is apparently not good enough to convince us. So instead he wants the force of law to insert that appleinto my throat. He wants to require, mandate, and compel. He wants to tax bananas to subsidize apples. He will provide free downloadable software so that I can spend hours calculating my minimum allowable apples-to-banana consumption ratio. He will then send inspectors to verify my compliance on pain of the loss of my permit to eat bananas. He's sure that it's all for our own good.
It's not so much that he feels contempt for the value of human freedom. He seems never to have considered it.
—Barry Milliken, New York, N.Y.
Builders' mind-sets need to change
Alex Wilson's "Taking Issue" essay "Fixing our homes can help fix our country" (FHB #201) hit the nail on the head and should be mailed to every contractor and builder in the United States.
Up until the mid-'70s, our residential and industrial construction was essentially "energy complacent." We didn't much care about the cost of fuels or energy. Gasoline and fuel oil were 50¢ a gallon. Water was almost free. Even after the lessons of the early 1970s, change to energy efficiency was gradual and eventually slowed. It came alive again only in the recent decade.
When you think about it, we've got 100 years of inefficient construction behind us. The postwar building booms of the early and mid-century have built most of the inventory—millions of homes and industrial/commercial buildings.
If we put our minds to it, we could employ hundreds of thousands in the manufacture and installation of energyefficient appliances and insulating materials. The payback? Most insulation would be made of recycled materials, products that would otherwise languish in expensive-to-maintain landfills. Employment would increase. The cash we send to hostile oil-rich nations would slow to a trickle.
But the real payback is that the energy efficiency remains in place forever. Insulation doesn't wear out; it has no moving parts and needs no maintenance. Once energy-efficient products become mainstream, there's no going back. Just try to buy a single-glazed window or an inefficient furnace or boiler today.
Mind-sets need to change—not just in Washington, but throughout the industry.
—John J. Christiano, Franklin, N.J.
More than a real American can stand
I have been a subscriber to your magazine since it started and also have kept all the issues. But Alex Wilson's two-page diatribe in the last issue is more than a real American can stand. The reason housing is so expensive is because of ideas such as these.
Tax credits are giveaway programs. Subsidies and stricter building codes? More giveaways and Gestapo tactics. Renewable energy is in the infant stage. Look at what ethanol has done to commodity prices. We need to drill everywhere to stop throwing money overseas, then we can start playing with renewable energy.
Articles on home building are what this magazine should have, not left-wing political rants. Egomaniacs like Mr. Wilson seem to think they have the right to tell everyone else how to live.
—Vinton M. Lampton, Agua Dulce, Calif.
Energy efficiency is just common sense
I enjoyed Alex's letter to our new president and agree wholeheartedly. It brings me joy when I read an article that presents "green" or "energy efficient" as if it were common sense rather than some "liberal" ideology.
I can personally vouch for the two-thirds reduction in energy use. In my '50s-era California ranch house, I replaced single-pane aluminum windows with up-to-date technology and bought an up-to-date HVAC system (with air-conditioning). I also sheathed the exterior of my home with 2 in. of expanded-polystyrene foam sheathing covered with an acrylic-stucco system.
Even with the added air-conditioning, I cut utility bills by one-half to two-thirds for an up-front cost of about a midprice sport-utility vehicle. So I say thank you, Mr. Wilson, for your contribution to the increasingly important cause of "smart" home building and renovation.
—Ron Roberts, via email
President Obama should hire Alex Wilson
I was so impressed with the content and direction of Alex Wilson's letter to the president that I want to be sure it was indeed sent to the White House. Smart, pertinent, relevant, and achievable. Mr. Obama seems ready to take on many of these tasks, and perhaps Mr. Wilson should have a position on his advisory council for energy independence.
—Lauren Vickerman, Pawcatuck, Conn.
Chimney crown will crack
I would like to comment on Brendan Mostecki's article "Rebuilding a Brick Chimney" (FHB #201). When rebuilding a chimney crown, it would be better to follow the advice of the Masonry Advisory Council and the Brick Institute of America (BIA), both of which recommend against several of the practices and details Mr. Mostecki uses. As shown in the article, the concrete crown is right up against the flue liner, and the area between the liners is packed with more concrete. Also, the bond break between the last course of brick and the crown is apparently missing.
Without these gaps, there is no room for expansion. The flue liner could crack during a burn because it will rapidly warm and expand at a greater rate than the surrounding masonry. A better approach would have been to leave an air gap between the flue liner and chimney crown, later filling it with high-temperature backer material and sealant.
I would recommend a quick online search for "chimney crown" for proper construction techniques. What the article does show is how to finish the job quickly by skipping the formwork, caulking, and fall protection that would otherwise help to ensure that both the repair and the crew will last.
—John Walsh, via email
Watch out for carpal-tunnel problems
I saw Dana Miller's tip "Modifying a drawer for a keyboard" in the last issue (FHB #201). I agree that the construction technique is fine, but there will likely be problems later on for the customer. First, the front edge of the drawer has no padding, and the customer may soon be bothered with rubbing on the wrists. More important, the shelf doesn't hold the drawer at the right position, and the likely side effect will be carpal-tunnel syndrome.
Miller would be much better off installing a factory keyboard holder—one with padding for the wrists and full adjustability—to prevent long-term problems. As someone who had problems at work, first using the top of the desk to hold the keyboard, then using an inferior under-desk holder, I can see lots of problems should Miller "use it in the future in my custom cabinets." In this case, I recommend a high-quality factory product rather than a custom-made one.
—Chuck Shultz, Freehold, N.J.
Thinning floor stains can help
Charles Peterson's article about wood-flooring problems and their solutions (FHB #200) was informative and refreshing. One point that was mentioned, but perhaps should be emphasized further, is the time and patience required to refinish a wood floor.
Although all floor conditions vary, a 200-sq.-ft. floor could require five hours or more of sanding per grit using the U-Sand orbital sander mentioned in the article, depending on the cupping and alignment of the boards, and not including the cleaning between passes.
Another item to note is that although thinning stains is not always recommended on manufacturer labels, it is important that the stain remains wet when overlapping passes during application. If the first pass is already dry, a dark stripe will appear on the overlap, which is difficult to correct. Thinning the stain as one batch can provide a solution that stays wet longer to allow more time for the overlap.
On several occasions, I have seen wood floors that the homeowner had attempted to refinish but that needed to be refinished by a professional. Although the steps from sanding to staining to the polyurethane coats are straightforward, it is only with a good understanding of the nuances of each step that a beautifully finished wood floor is brought to fruition.
—Paul D. Portell, via email
A clarification about dryer ducting
I would like to offer a brief comment concerning the Q&A about dryer venting (FHB #198). The answer says to "use flexible duct only in areas where it can be accessed easily and cleaned." But according to the International Residential Code (2006 IRC Section M1502.2), flexible ducts (or transition ducts) are to be used to connect dryers to the exhaust duct system. Per the IRC commentary, flexible-duct transitions "must remain entirely within the room in which the appliance is installed," and they are to be "listed as transition ducts to comply with UL 2158A."
My colleagues and I have seen many flexible duct connectors installed within "accessible" attic spaces that never get cleaned or are forgotten about completely. Duct construction should always be 4-in. rigid metal with joints running in the direction of airflow. Exhaust ducts should not be connected with sheet-metal screws or other fasteners that extend into the vent pipe.
—Andrew Bowman, Residential-code official, Lancaster, Pa.
posted in: Blogs, energy efficiency, green building, hvac, floors, masonry, fireplaces and chimneys
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Comments (2)
John Christiano say, "we've got 100 years of inefficient construction behind us". This is not correct. Homebuilding has improved incrementally over that time, and will continue to in the future. It's a process not a final destination, if you get my drift.
One last thing. Dual glazed windows. I have them. BUT single glazed windows are rated R-1. Dual glazed windows are rated R-2. Walls are rated R-15, 7x better than dual glazed. A lot of cost for small improvement in thermal efficiency. ie not a great bang for the buck. wfiw
Posted: 5:23 pm on February 27th
The other thing that hit me was his suggestion the we use HOMELAND SECURITY DEPT. TO IMPROVE ENERGY EFFICIENCY IN OUR HOUSES. What? Where is the skill set that links these two?
His suggestions to improve home efficiency was fine. I would like to think that cost/benefit analysis had been done. Cost/benefit would be important re the "passive survivability" idea. Does he have any evidence that we are in for extended periods of power outages? Fearmongering. What proof does he have that our energy system is vulnerable?
Changing the zoning laws would create chaos. I thought it sounded good at first read, but I was wrong and so is he. Think about it and you may agree.
Have you noticed that what we used to call global warming is now called climate change. Michael Crichton's book, State of Fear" is a good read about this. If we are having warming, would that mean that our winters will be warmer, and require LESS energy? (summers would require more). How about requiring ALL office buildings to turn off the lights when not in use? Turn the A?C up to 75°?
Posted: 5:03 pm on February 27th
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