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Methods for Installing Prehung Doors

Chris Ermides, associate editor

37 users recommend

Striegler's process for hanging prehung doors is extremely efficient and yields great results. But some carpenters have written in to say that they don’t think he uses enough shims. What do you think?

Photo: Chris Ermides

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In our latest issue of Fine Homebuilding magazine, veteran builder Gary Striegler shares his step-by-step process for hanging prehung doors. Gary’s been building houses for more than 25 years, and his specialty is trim carpentry. I’ve seen a lot of the houses and projects he’s built, and they’re all top-notch—really high-quality work.

His process is extremely efficient and yields great results: doors that swing perfectly and close without a glitch. But some carpenters have written in to say that they don’t think he uses enough shims.

So here’s my question: How many shims do you use to install a prehung door, and why?

Thanks,

Chris Ermides, associate editor

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Comments (6)

philbrown writes: This article was more suited to Production Homebuilding magazine. Doors installed this way may work OK for a while but not in the long haul. And using single shims goes against everything that I've learned from long experience. And with a solid core door, forget it.
Phil Brown
Posted: 11:44 pm on April 21st

OF writes: I really like Gary's technique - 6 shims do the job for me in most cases. However, I sometimes encounter crooked framing situations which may require more shims to get and keep the door jamb plumb.
Posted: 12:56 pm on April 20th

BrianP writes: For hollow-core doors, Gary Katz doesn't use any shims:

http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/how-to/articles/setting-prehung-doors.aspx?nterms=61630,93208&ac=fp
Posted: 2:42 pm on April 16th

Davo304 writes: As for the question about how many shims do you use, I tend to use 5 pairs of shims on each side. I place one set at each of the 3 hinge locations on the hinge side, and usually split the difference between the center shim and top shim for pair #4 and split the difference between the bottom shim and center shim for placing shim #5.

I tend to position the shims the same for the strike side. I may at times omit a set or 2 from the hinge side, since I always sink a 3 inch or longer screw thru each actual hinge; which makes that side very strong, but on the strike side, I usually place 5 pairs to help give me a good (straight) gap and to help guard against being knocked around too much since this is the side that the door is always banging into.

I think Gary Striegler is an excellent finish carpenter and enjoy all his articles very much. A lot of hollow core interior doors are so lightweight that 3 shim locations are really sufficient; especially when you attach the casing. The casing pretty much holds everything tight.
Because I normally use 5 pairs of shims on each side doesn't mean I'm right or wrong. This was the way I was taught and so out of habit I follow this regimen...but the true answer is whether or not the door opens and closes easily once you are ready to walk away from the job. I'm quite positive that Mr. Striegler's doors all work perfectly.

Davo


Posted: 12:40 pm on April 16th

coolh2o writes: I subscribe to most of Gary's techniques. However three shim points per side seems a bit light to me. As a rule I place shims at the hinge points and the space between hinges to ensure a consistent reveal between jamb and door. Further I place shims at the head of jamb where rabbits on jamb legs and head meet and at the center of head. It appears that the author is relying soley on the case work to hold the jamb reveal true. This techique is quite common in track or production work.

I never use pre hung doors and opt to field hang everything. It gives one the most control in dealing with pre existing "challanges".

It all comes down to what your comfort level is and belief in you own tried and true techniques.
Posted: 6:42 pm on April 15th

Cermides writes: On a three-hinge hollow-core door Gary typically uses 6 shims total (3 per side). That means he uses one shim behind each hinge. While some might think he's skimping by using one per hinge, he thinks it's actually good practice because it tweaks the jamb just enough to ensure the door won't ever bind.

One reader wrote in to say that he uses no less than 12 shims total(three pairs per side). He argues that two shims behind each hinge should be the standard.


Posted: 11:09 am on April 15th

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