What's the Difference?: Entry Doors
comments (0) April 29th, 2009 in Blogsby Matthew Teague
Exterior doors come in a wide range of prices, from $125 to several thousand. While there are a variety of doors available, most are made of wood, steel, or fiberglass. Different materials bring distinctly different qualities to a home. A steel door, for example, is fitting on a contemporary house, but slightly awkward on a traditional one. All entry doors are relatively durable, yet each type has different maintenance needs over its service life. Performance is not solely measured by good looks and smooth operation, though; a door’s energy efficiency is an important consideration, too. Wood, steel, and fiberglass doors all can be made to meet Energy Star requirements, so shop wisely.
Wood doors are the traditional choice
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Perhaps the most flexible in terms of design, wood doors can be made with almost any wood species and glass configuration. They require a lot more maintenance than steel or fiberglass doors. If covered by a porch, a wide overhang, or a storm door, wood maintains its beauty. Long-term exposure to weather, however, can cause the door panels to crack as wood expands and contracts with changes in humidity. Moisture isn’t a wood door’s only enemy. The sun can really take its toll on wood and its finish. In general, solid-wood doors are 5 times less efficient than other options, but that doesn’t mean all wood doors are energy hogs. Some include energy-efficient glass and can achieve an Energy Star rating.
Cost: $200 to $5000 with standard glass packages
Maintenance: Refinish after six months to three years, depending on exposure. Look for an exterior-grade finish with UV-inhibitors.
Durability and longevity: Highly dependent on both exposure to the elements and maintenance, but typical warranties are one year. Some doors can last a lifetime if properly cared for. If they are neglected, they’ll last only a few years.
Steel doors are the most budget friendly
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These doors consist of a wood or composite frame skinned with sheets of molded steel on each side. The door is filled with either spray-polyurethane foam or sheet polystyrene. Spray-polyurethane foam expands to fill all the air gaps inside the door, while sheet polystyrene can leave air pockets, which makes for a less energy-efficient door. Steel doors tend not to expand or contract with changes in humidity, so they operate smoothly year-round.
Cost: $125 (no glass) to $1500
Maintenance: A steel door needs paint every few years depending on the quality of the paint used and its application. Some dents can be popped, while others can be filled and sanded smooth. Scratches can be repaired in similar fashion.
Durability and longevity: Steel doors have long lives but are susceptible to dents and rust. Warranties of 5 to 20 years are typical.
Not all fiberglass doors are created equal
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These doors also have a foam-filled frame, but they’re skinned with molded fiberglass. You can buy inexpensive fiberglass doors with smooth skins or high-end textured and stainable doors that are indistinguishable from real wood. The most expensive versions are built from molds made of real wood, which helps to create realistic grain patterns. Cheaper versions have artificially generated wood patterns, and most come with a factory-applied finish. Fiberglass doors are more stable than wood doors, and they’re also more energy efficient. Insulated fiberglass doors are roughly R-11.5, comparable to the efficiency of steel doors.
Cost: $200 (no glass) to $2500
Maintenance: If properly maintained, fiberglass doors need to be stained only every two to three years with an exterior-grade product. A finish with UV-inhibitors prevents fading. Scratches can be repaired, and doors can be refinished, though the process involves removing the finish with chemicals rather than sandpaper.
Durability and longevity: Rust- and dentproof, with long warranties that range from 25 years to life.
Superior insulation makes a better door
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Not only does spray-polyurethane foam (near right) air-seal a door—eliminating the potential for energy to literally slip through the cracks—but it also offers a higher R-value than polystyrene foam (far right). The spray foam is usually closed-cell, which is R-6 per inch; polystyrene is R-4 per inch.
—Matthew Teague is a freelance writer in Nashville, Tenn. Photos: Krysta S. Doerfler
posted in: Blogs, energy efficiency, insulation, doors
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