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A Better "Better Way" to Paint Doors

bpickard, member

4 users recommend

Photo: Bill Pickard

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Don Mathis’ “An Efficient Way to Paint Doors” provides a welcome way to paint doors on both sides in a single pass. However, after initial milling of the plywood, a fair amount of time is required to assemble the uprights and braces each time used. Also, the high center of gravity yields instability, particularly with heavy glazed doors. And the uprights mask the full painting of the top/bottom.

We use a simpler approach which after initial installation, requires no further assembly/disassembly. We use a pair of aluminum angles for each system. The angle measures 1/8” x 1-1/2” x 48”. The leg facing up has (7) 1/2” diameter semi-circles spaced 6” O.C. The lower leg has 3-4 holes, 1/4” diameter each, for screwing directly to the top of the 2x4  on the saw horse. We use (4) #12x3” screws for the door. The first pair are placed about 2” off the centerline of the top and bottom. This way, the doors will hang vertically in the racks. The second pair is placed about 6”-8” off the centerline and are used for turning the door while spraying. While 2 people are needed to move the doors, a single person can spray both sides of the door using the offset screws to turn as needed.

It is important to orient the pair of saw horses parallel to facilitate rotating the doors. The up-facing legs of the angles are oriented to the inside of the sawhorses. The door with screws in place is placed in the notches of the angle. The screws nearer the centerline of the door are exposed 1-1/2”  while the outboard pair are exposed only 1”. This allows the door to be rotated 360-degrees if necessary.

The system is rock solid due to its low center of gravity. No lateral 2x6 is needed to tie the saw horses together.

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Comments (4)

ZS_Design_Architect writes: the hinge screw holes should NOT be used for a jury-rigged method of painting doors.

that idea will ruin the hinge hole by stretching out the wood.

Furthermore - placing holes in the head, sill or jamb edges of the door is a sure fire way to ruin the door as filling the holes will not work and in the long run create an interior moisture issue that will destroy the door - ESPECIALLY in moist areas like the south.


Posted: 11:17 am on February 15th

gubbeen writes: I can't recall where I came across a variation on this theme that (to my mind) is quite elegant in comparison. (It might have been in a lowbrow handyman mag--eek!)

Install three lag screws into the ends of the door--one at centerline in one end, the other two roughly 2' apart and roughly centered in the other. Leave them all about 1" proud. Suspend the door by the screws on a pair of sawhorses (or anything else) set slightly wider apart than the door is long.

Flip the door by picking it up by the pair of screws and pivoting it on the far, single one. Most residential doors can easily be turned by one person. (You'll soon find that pre-crossing your hands makes for a steadier landing...)

The two solutions previously mentioned will prove very frustrating, indeed, for anybody who is rolling or wiping on their finish. The three-screw method provides a stable, horizontal (i.e., drip-resistant) surface for those of us who remain less, um, compressed.
Posted: 9:49 pm on October 12th

nvman writes: I have my own, not so high tech way of painting doors that works well if you have an unfinished ceiling or workshop.

I put a couple of screws in the top of a door and then suspend it with a couple of wires from the ceiling.

I can finish all six sides with only a couple of screw holes.

Do the top and bottom first.
Face and back next.
Then the latch and hinge sides last.

If you want to, put a screw where the centre hinge would be and that could be a handle .
Can also put a screw where the knob or latch will be. But not dead centre because it might affect your drilling.

Posted: 10:42 pm on September 14th

lstollin02 writes: Sorry, I can't picture it at all. In photo provided I cannot see the parts you describe, I can't see what's connecting to the doors, and I can't picture how a door that is intentionally hanging bottom-heavy can be turned over easily by a single person. Please provide closeups, diagrams, and/or a video -- this sounds great but I need help!
Posted: 11:59 pm on September 8th

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