Video: Shim-Cutting Jig for the Tablesaw
comments (9) November 17th, 2009 in Blogs
Produced by: John Ross and Jean-Paul Vellotti
Extra trips to the lumber yard or home store can quickly eat up profit, or valuable time that I could spend watching football. It used to be when I ran out of shims in a pinch, I would fashion some on the fly but it's not fun to fine tune cabinet positions with shims I've hackered out of 2x stock with my circular saw. One Sunday I was in double jeopardy. I was trying to finish up a cabinet install job to make a little extra money and I was trying to get it done in time to watch some afternoon football.
Of course, I got all set up before I realized I had only a few shims left in my shim bucket and I was going to need a bunch for this kitchen to secure them flat and straight. The nearest store was twenty minutes away and was hardly worth the drive for shims. I'd seen a shim jig at a cabinet shop so I modeled one after their design, customizing it for 2x stock instead of 1x stock that the shop liked to use for their shims.
Since I made it, this little shim jig has turned out thousands of shims and saved me numerous trips to the store. Download the plan.
posted in: Blogs, framing, tips, jigs, shim
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Comments (9)
Posted: 11:24 am on January 1st
Posted: 8:39 am on December 30th
My preferred way is to cut shims from 2 by 6 stock with my chop saw set at two degrees. Just roll the stock after each shim is cut to maintain the wedge shape. No need of a jig at all, just eyeball the thin edge thickness on the inside, close to the fence and you are done.
The beauty of these wedges is that they work the same as regular long grain ones but are a joy to snap off and efficient. No setup time or jig to find or make. But the best part is how fast and pleasurable trimming the shims become as a result of end grain direction.
Posted: 8:25 am on December 28th
Posted: 1:29 pm on November 26th
Posted: 11:45 am on November 26th
it looks like he offset the dark piece of wood in the jig to about 1 or two degrees off of 90. The mdf portion of the jig rides against the regular tablesaw fence and the two by four rides against the dark wood on the jig. You move the TS Fence until you get the right clearance between the blade and the dark wood on the jig (maybe 3/16 or a 1/4 on the back side and a nice point on the front of the shim) then adjust the blade so that it cuts all the way through the two by four but not all the way through the mdf. the shim is cut off of the two by four inbetween the blade and the jig. That is how I saw it. It really was not a very well done video. I had to watch it a couple of times to figure out how he did it. It is a really neat idea though. Hope this helps
Posted: 11:39 am on November 26th
Posted: 12:57 am on November 26th
Posted: 5:37 pm on November 25th
Thanks - J
Posted: 6:08 pm on November 16th
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