You'd be done all right. Don't suppose your "Bondo" matches the paint. I can't believe anyone would cut into 100 yr., or older molding to get a match. If you are not able to figuire out how to match molding without destroying the original, find a new occupation.
I don't think you want to be standing underneath that in a 100 mile hr. wind. Those notches have weakend the posts to less than a couple 2x's. And you need to look at the stats on the Simpson bracket, it's not designed to do what your attempting to do. Get an Engineer's help, or the very least, someone who knows what they're doing. That's a catastrophe looking for a time to happen!
Might want to put an elbow and leg on the far end to keep the miter saw from tipping over if cutting heavy material.
Enlightened or frightened? If you've done that many with great success, why not invest in the proper tool to do it right? All it takes is one slip, and you'll pay for the tool a hundred times over! However with so many Plumbers, I'm sure I'm not the first one that has told you this!
It's a wire you put between I-joists, or nominal floor joists to hold up batt style insulation. They make them the appropriate length for 16" and 24" OC.
Like you're the first one that has thought of this, and scientifically figured out the best location? I've had to remove and relocate a countless number of these to the wall because some genius has decided it would be better to locate on the door.
While I don't disagree with your logic, people very simply end up kicking them with their feet when they go to open the door, aside from the fact they take away from the aesthetics of the door itself (however I have seen many doors where the latter makes little difference, especially if they're hollow core). Which is why they've been installed on the wall for oh I don't know... Centuries.
The chart is set-up kind of poorly to be used over the internet, may be works better printed out. Took a couple minutes to figure out whatm was going on.
Just a couple taps with a brick hammer on each face of the brick will do the same thing...and is a whole lot faster. It really isn't rocket science.
I really doubt too many homeowners will see OSHA, or even know who OSHA is. However if you're really concerned about weakening the ladder...use a couple of S/S clamps.
You know...there is a reason we did things the way we did for the 45 years I was in the Trades. Please read the first two comments, this "better way" should be removed from the site before someone else thinks this is a good idea!
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