"We few, we happy few!" Perfect!
Mike, that's not blood on the roof. It's patina.
Brianrussel, rebar seemed like overkill for a 3 x 3 non-structural slab.
Thanks for the comments, mostly valid. Please keep in mind the title of the series - Mastered in a Minute. Sixty seconds or thereabouts isn't enough to come close to covering all the contingencies. Hopefully though, you can extract some useful information.
I edited the article, and you ask some difficult questions. As to whether the T-Rex is accepted everywhere, I can't answer. An engineer's stamp on the drawings will usually fix that kind of issue. Our building departments in the rural bits of New England tend to be a little less restrictive than in other parts of the country. You should contact T-Rex and ask for their help with code compliance. As to the footings, again, that's a regional issue. It's only an outbuilding, so the local building department didn't have an issue with the footings as built. Is that the best approach? Probably not. As a practical matter for a shed? Probably fine. Pricing is another regional issue. Contractors in CT probably charge differently from those in Washington or in Arkansas, or indeed, from the their own local competition. And because the materials were locally sourced, what we might say about their price here is likely to have little resemblance to what you'll find where you live. Sorry, but sometimes the reader will have to do some legwork to adapt a project to a different area. Also, in some cases, either the homeowner or the contractor doesn't want to say the cost of a project. We'll try to find out, but in the end, the value of that information is questionable and we sometimes let it go.
Can you see the video now? It comes up for me.
All good comments. In residential use, the Tile Council of North America specifically allows ceramic tile to be installed directly over 1/2 in. plywood underlayment in dry locations. Wet locations such as bathrooms require the addition of a waterproofing layer. There's a caveat though. The TCNA refs ANSI A108, and neither of those documents provide details for installation over joists on 24 in. centers. Alternatively, the APA publishes details for subfloor installation it says meets the same design spec (Max L/360 deflection) for a variety of joist spacings and subfloors. And yes, the subfloor is best glued and nailed.
None of this is to say that cement board or a plastic underlayment such as Schluter makes aren't also acceptable, but either of them would benefit from underlayment below, if you have the height.
ANSI A108 calls for 1/8 in. spacing between the panels, and 1/4 in. between the panels and plumbing fixtures or walls. As to gluing the underlayment down, I'm on the fence. A108 calls for it, but doesn't spec what kind of glue or how much to use. The APA document doesn't require it. I like the idea of making construction reversible when possible. Glue the underlayment down, and you've hideously complicated any future remodeling of that floor. I compensate for not using glue by increasing the fastening schedule, and by using screws instead of the ring-shanked nails allowed by all the standards.
Finally, I wouldn't hesitate to install a hardwood floor over underlayment installed in this way. But the Wood Flooring Manufacturer's Association does allow hardwood to be installed directly over OSB subfloor.
reinostencke, I'm not at all sure about home centers never carrying the same grades of lumber. In fact, I'm sure I wouldn't make that statement.
WarsawMan, joists almost always run the short dimension of a structure. Check the DCA6 for deck joist span tables.
Derrick, free standing decks can be a great solution, and the DCA6 provides bracing details for them. One downside to them is that they require more bracing than a deck attached to a house. In many cases, most maybe, I still think that attaching to the house is simpler, faster, and cheaper.
Your outer posts only need to go below frost depth, not the full 8 feet. In fact, the IRC doesn't require frost footings for some free-standing structures such as decks and sheds below a certain size. That said, it does require building on undisturbed earth (or engineered, compacted fill), so that doesn't get you out of digging deep at the house. And it's probably not great to have part of the deck supported on frost footings and the other part not...
It also could depend on the overdig for your foundation. If it's only say, 2 ft., then you could probably put shallow footings 3 ft. from the house and cantilever the rest. But you'd have to know that for sure. And I'm being hypothetical here.
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