Roofspaces are vented to limit condensation forming when the underside of the external roof cladding (or structure) is cooler than the air rising through the insulation from the occupied space below. Air drawn in from outside presumably has the capacity to remove this moisture and I agree that there will be times and climates where the benefits are questionable.
Ventilated roofspaces tend to be recommended (if not 'coded' - as they are in the UK in certain circumstances) for colder climates and the humidity passing through will be worse above uses like bathrooms. There's been lots of discussion about pros and cons over the years, but a small amount of air movement through the structure, on the external side, is no bad thing IMHO.
As a Brit this is structurally confusing to me ! The external wall seems to partly sit on a seemingly un-reinforced slab, itself on compressible insulation. Does none of this settle with time ? Slab never crack (esp. when cure shrinking, if large) ? Relative movement seems assured, particularly as the other 'half' of the wall structure sits on the more firmly grounded stem wall ?
Hmmm..... I know the bits you're talking about renosteinke. Maybe I'd just bought cheap-y ones, but they weren't the best for me - skated around just the same, then good for only a couple of holes, although I guess with a steady enough hand even a standard masonry bit can be kept under control.
What I do is use several layers of masking tape (it may not be called this in the US, but I think you have the 'Frogtape' brand and that's the sort of stuff I'm talking about), make a decent size patch of tape at least three or four layers deep and mark the tape, not the tile (hence the big patch 'cause you might not know exactly where you're going to drill at this stage)
Then start the masonry (or even a point-y tile bit if you have one) bit REALLY slowly and the 'give' of the tape layers usually stops the bit from skating around. Kevin (in the video above) runs the drill too fast for my liking - that seems to be a way to potentially crack a tile - cut small holes in tile at about the speed of an old hand-operated brace drill - it's a job of slowness !
Pipe clamps are an excellent system that I have see in the USA, but we don't really have them here in the UK (our pipe is metric and all too often plastic or copper - threaded imperial steel/iron pipe is hard to source).
We do however have a sort-of 'system' of clampy type things which fit into the standard holes within a 'Workmate' (do you guys have these sort of folding benches ?) or its cheaper clones. These hold-downs (we sometimes call them 'dogs') may not be available in the USA, but if they are, why go to all the trouble of making something that already exists as an off the shelf product ?
Anyways, how often do you need a clamp in the middle of a board or bench ? Easiest of all must be clamp near an edge with a ratchet clamp or lever a hold down timber batten off a slightly thicker than workpiece shim with the clamp in between (sorry, needs a pic to explain really).
Like the pipe clamp system, just seems a lot of work to me.
Yes, I'm with the other posters here, its a weak repair unless there is some bond around the hole and patch edges.
For myself I glue some smaller strips on the back of the board (with Gripfill/No Nails) and clamp if necessary (the strips sometimes fall off inside the framing void if too large/heavy for the glue), then glue the patch in place so its supported by the strips of board.
The patch needs a gap of 1/8" all round and chamfer off the paper around joint edges with a knife.
Here in the UK we often use PVA diluted 1:3 as a 'size' when skimming drywall or any absorbent surface and I'd brush some of this around the chamfered edge gap to ensure the board joint compound really sticks the patch in place.
I also agree that the paper flap creates too much of a 'witness' in the final finish which requires too large area of skim to feather out. Nice to see a different way of doing this though, thanks.
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