Great tip. Having sore arms from driving the top of the joist for not place with an eight foot 2x. Remember the bottom only needs the bevel at the bearing points.
So subfloor is already down right? Just additional clearance allowance. Remember the door needs space above the finished floor to swing without dragging too.
Great experience and great planning. Thanks for sharing. Two flashbacks. One mine and one FHB story. Framing a gable end in a very similar tilt up approach, four carpenters tilt up the assembly, nail the plate off, and install three braces while the adjoining walls are prepared on the deck. As a beginner I had trouble getting the nails at the bottom plate where the brace was so I tapped the brace out of the way, finished sheathing and during lunch watched the full wall slowly lean away in a slight breeze and just disappear from view. I was quite popular that day! The FHB story from years ago was related to a truck, a pulley point and a braided nylon rope to raise a gable end. Wall up on saw horses, truck starts moving away, rope tightens, truck keeps moving, rope continues to tighten, truck keeps moving, wall is not lifting. Suddenly the elastic limit is reached and the whole assembly flies way beyond vertical and to the ground as the rope had become something more like a rubber band. Your preparation and careful precautions paid off. Congrats!
Great tip and a great video link demonstrating the process. Another not so elaborate method is three nails and a piece of lattice on edge. Two end points and the rise and you're good to go. This is useful for long arches you might find on cornice assemblies.
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