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Acfrqflyer - Poured concrete walls are rarely perfectly smooth or plumb. The spray foam as adhesive is pretty forgiving. I doubt you'll have any problems.
Cornelius99 - that's not exactly true. I don't disagree about insulating the outside of the foundation walls, but that's just a senseless approach when dealing with remodels. You don't have access to the outside face of the walls in anything but new construction or with lots of digging. Also, if you use the appropriate form of insulation the assembly will allow for some inward drying. Remember that the insulation is not a vapor "barrier" - it's a vapor retarder. We're only concerned with moving the dew point enough that we don't get condensation on the cold concrete.
AhesOmes - In theory you can use any type of board insulation, but most people avoid foil-faced polyiso because it doesn't allow any vapor permeability. Vapor permeability in this case is a good thing, because it will allow for some inward drying. The typical choices are XPS (blue, pink, or green foam) or EPS (white foam)
Hi ccwenk - That's pretty common. The way I've dealt with it is to insulate close to the pipe, then fill the gap with spray foam. The caveat here is that the clean-outs in that drain line need to remain completely accessible.
It's a fair point, Dabbler_Babbler! Although it made sense to group the information by function or use, the order of events is (or at least can be) different depending on your situation. Probably best to watch the whole video series before coming up with a game plan for your own basement. Thanks for watching! - Justin Fink
bonnercd - kmead is correct in his/her explanation. The soffits and ridge vent are still open to airflow, and these vent baffles are simply providing a fully separated path so the ventilation air can run from eave to ridge without washing through the insulation in the rafter bays.
stukinftw - the rigid foam baffles can be fastened with angled nails or screws driven tight against the face of the foam and up into rafters on either side. You don't need much to hold them into place, just enough to temporarily hold them until a bead of spray foam sealant applied along each edge sets up and does the permanent holding.
This is genius!
I'm not sure what the issue might be, because the link works for me. Perhaps you can try finding it through the homepage of that site: www.propane101.com
Nice details, Matt. Good stuff here. Was this your first go with DrainWrap? I'm not a big fan of how it stretches (flattens out the crinkles) as you pull it tight. That said, I'm currently using HydroGap on a re-siding job and have been liking it.
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