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I'm laughing about the basin wrench. I wish I DIDN'T
MikeNJ - Thanks for the comment, Mike. It's an excellent question on the electrical panel. In many cases the panel is mounted to a piece of plywood backed by studs fastened to the wall, in which case I just go right up to the edges of the plywood backer. That's if the electrical panel is going to remain exposed. In most cases when you're insulating to this level it's in preparation for finishing the basement, which usually involves hiding the panel behind a door, so you could transition the insulation from concrete to the wall/door, then back to the concrete again, avoiding the panel completely. In short, I would not butt foam up tight to the panel. Fur it out or avoid it.
Hi all - Justin here with a clarifying reminder that there is a link to the shed model in the first paragraph of this blog post. I've gone back and made the text bright red. Click the link and it will take you right to the SketchUp 3d warehouse where you can download a 3D model of the shed that allows you to see every stud and brace. Enjoy.
Acfrqflyer - Poured concrete walls are rarely perfectly smooth or plumb. The spray foam as adhesive is pretty forgiving. I doubt you'll have any problems.
Cornelius99 - that's not exactly true. I don't disagree about insulating the outside of the foundation walls, but that's just a senseless approach when dealing with remodels. You don't have access to the outside face of the walls in anything but new construction or with lots of digging. Also, if you use the appropriate form of insulation the assembly will allow for some inward drying. Remember that the insulation is not a vapor "barrier" - it's a vapor retarder. We're only concerned with moving the dew point enough that we don't get condensation on the cold concrete.
AhesOmes - In theory you can use any type of board insulation, but most people avoid foil-faced polyiso because it doesn't allow any vapor permeability. Vapor permeability in this case is a good thing, because it will allow for some inward drying. The typical choices are XPS (blue, pink, or green foam) or EPS (white foam)
Hi ccwenk - That's pretty common. The way I've dealt with it is to insulate close to the pipe, then fill the gap with spray foam. The caveat here is that the clean-outs in that drain line need to remain completely accessible.
It's a fair point, Dabbler_Babbler! Although it made sense to group the information by function or use, the order of events is (or at least can be) different depending on your situation. Probably best to watch the whole video series before coming up with a game plan for your own basement. Thanks for watching! - Justin Fink
bonnercd - kmead is correct in his/her explanation. The soffits and ridge vent are still open to airflow, and these vent baffles are simply providing a fully separated path so the ventilation air can run from eave to ridge without washing through the insulation in the rafter bays.
stukinftw - the rigid foam baffles can be fastened with angled nails or screws driven tight against the face of the foam and up into rafters on either side. You don't need much to hold them into place, just enough to temporarily hold them until a bead of spray foam sealant applied along each edge sets up and does the permanent holding.
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