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The guy in the pic isn't wearing safety glasses. In fact, I've never, ever seen a roofer wearing safety glasses...
This is the kind of creative engineering that I like! Looks difficult to trim or install the strip to match a whacked floor though. Any tips on how you do that?
You clearly state that the board stretcher (we prefer the Dumbfix brand)will allow up to 20% increase in length but you increased that board 25%. That's a code violation...
Looking at the specs of the compressors in the review, the Bostitch is listed as 23.5lbs and offers 2.8cfm @ 90psi. Is that accurate? If so it would be about triple the cfm that others in that weight range offer.
Maybe a couple of years ago you ran a compressor test and it wasn't very clear on decibel levels of the compressors but it was clear from comments that that was an important factor. Are you able to get some accurate db data for the compressors in this review?
Also important to note that hand driven nails have a "pointy" end and a "head" end. The pointy end goes toward the wood!
Looks cool doesn't matter much, I've already got that covered!
I'm more interested in weight, size and decibel levels. Nice that it cuts 14" across, but if that adds a lot of bulk/weight I'd rather see the same saw in a 10" model that's smaller and lighter.
Looking forward to the review!
ronaldsauve, That's interesting, I too have the Prime Source dual tank. It's a PAC 2000 and I've used it for years but it's showing it's age and I have to baby it to get it to run on colder days.
I certainly could use lighter but I'm leary of the 1.7 cfm of the Thomas. The fact that it's rated for continuous run is impressive.
I agree, there's a big difference between 69 and 80 db. How does the Thomas compare to the Prime Air noise-wise?
I'd like to hear from someone who has tried the Rol-air FC1250LS3. There's some confusion on the Rol-air site as to exact specs but I have an email from a Rol-air manager that tells me it's 45lbs, CFM Delivered is 2.9 @ 100 PSI and I think I remember the db level being 73.
The Makita 700 looks good but it's a little heavier and louder than I think I need.
The Thomas is nice and light but for me 1.7 delivered CFM is just too little and twice the price is too much....
I think PayingMyMortgage (and others) have it right. The speculating homeowners weren't the only ones who made bad business decisions, the banks were right there with them. What I do think is immoral is how the rest of us taxpayers who didn't make irresponsible bets are paying for the mess.
So; Yes, it's OK for an underwater homeowner to walk away from his/her mortgage and let the banks take part of the hit. It's just not right that taxpayers then bail out the banks.
It would be very useful to mix in a number of lower cost blades and include the price consideration in the test.
I bought a handfull of Magna blades via Ebay a year or more ago. They hold up surprisingly well for a cheap blade. I'd buy them again over the expensive Lennox, Bosch, Milwaukee, etc.
I just tried this game for the first time with the "plumbing from hell". I was surprised about the "hot water heater" needing to be plugged in....I always thought the redundant "hot water heater" was a home-owner term! :-)
What's the point of duplicating what Craigslist already does well?
Doesnt look like just the right tool with the right price with the right priced non-proprietary blades is out there yet. Maybe Ridgid with their lifetime warranty will be the one. For now I'll buy one of the cheapies or just wait it out.
Good tip! The video tip might work a bit smoother but I'm much more likely to take the time to put your simpler tip into action. A centered screw could be added on both ends too to gain the ability to turn the doors vertically to take up less room as they dry.
I like it!
I used to have the Bosch but found it too cumbersome to carry around. I like the starrett angle finder better and I just keep a chart by the mitersaw that tells me what to set the saw at for various angles. You can find these charts online and I think it's easier to have the sheet right by the saw than reading it from the bosch.
And $170? Too much....
I count 16 nailers and probably 17 features but it's hard to tell how you want to separate the features out from one another for a count...
He picked the Bostich as his favorite and you know what...I do too!
I dunno, Mike's system seems like an awful lot of unnecessary extra work and mess. I like Semar's hang bar idea but doesnt' it leave the cabs held off the wall? I've used the 45'd 1x ledgers to hang other things that had enough recess built into the back but how do the horizontal strip systems work with standard modern cabinets?
I'm not sure I follow the leveling legs idea...There's no kick? Nothing seals off the space under the cabs? I think of a plinth as the base under a column or other vertical. So you just use a plinth in front of the leg?
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