Or have a look at this Fine Homebuilding video.
I use this same jig and then clamp it to my tread or riser and use a router bit with a bearing cut these pieces.
Use this and it won't be hard on your drill.
Or you could use the tip here:
It is not hard to find references online to the need to respect minimum bend radius. And you'll see that commercial benders have different sized dies to bend the various diameter bars. When working in housing I think this is routinely overlooked however. I've used pipe from my pipe clamps to bend rebar in the past and ruined the tread so that the clamp fittings no longer fit.
That is a good comment given the sketch. This is my tip and I did the sketch as well. I assume your comment is inspired by the position of the bottom of the two bridge braces, as the top one would give room to have the float and trowel move above the bridge brace. Anyhow in practice, you can put them where you like and it would be a good idea as you point out to put them where they won’t be in the way.
By the way I use this device for so much more than just holding stringers in place. When I need to push something a small distance that is hard to move for example. The principle of the amazing force exerted may possibly be demonstrated by this example. Suppose you have two walls 10 feet apart. Place two 2x4’s that are each a 1/16” longer than 5 feet - end to end in that space. They will only fit in that space with the ends resting on the floor if they are raised slightly off the floor where they meet. You can likely imagine the very great thrust created as you try and press them toward the floor.
what is an insulation prop?
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