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New Canaan, CT, US
There are a couple of things I'd like to mention on this video. 1st, the number ONE reason for callbacks on subfloors is squeaks, which are addressed not necessarily by the truss system or adhesive, but at the panel joints. Spacing between sheets is mandatory and stated on the panels faces. 2nd, OSB is a good product but an improperly stored lift can get a warp set that is much harder to flatten than plywood to remove. You have to use screws if you get a unit like that. Additionally, if OSB gets wet, even with the wax coating, it will feathering on the face can cause some bonding problems with overlay sheets and edge swelling is more pronouced that a 2-4-1 plywood subfloor and can telegraph through the flooring. So keep OSB dry as much as possible. By the way, plywood is not a 'generic' name for panel products anymore than sheetrock@ is a generic name for wallboard. I do like the PUR glue, there are some good ones on the market, at lower price points.
I puzzled here! Just as renosteinke writes, just have glass/ceramic bits in your kit? Right tool for the project is a better way to work. There are too many of these hints that are making do with the wrong equipment or overkill jigs for people who don't have a sense of the craft. Put tips up that improve the level of craftsmanship not jerry-rigged hints.
Chuck, I appreciate some of the tips here. However, you should at least use the proper fasteners for house wraps. There is obviously too many people just using staples, like you did. It doesn't pass code in many places and is a bad practice in general.
I always like a push to save money or preserve wood, but this doesn't necessary accomplish it with quality. Going from 2x4 to 2x6 walls for added insulation only makes sense in Northern climates in midwest areas subject to 3 or more months under an average 50 degree weather. Anyone who has ever used currently produced 2x6 (southern pine, hemlock, spruce) knows how these move and nothing will hold them in-line, especially with 1/2 or 3/8 OSB vs plywood. Popped drywall screw or nail heads will be common in 24" framing. The 5/8 drywall, will cost more in price and installation. 24" oc framing has been around since the 60's, and then the wood was much better on knot size and degree of KD dryness. Siding on 24" studding also tends to sag if its 1/2" lap or vinyl. OSB won't hold nails well vs going into the studs. Plywood or 3/4" lap or composite (fiber/cement) are the only good ways to go. Certainly an increase in costs on lower end homes. California corners are cheaper but weaker. Forget the sheetrock clips, unless you're leaving town after completing the project. Check your local codes and get ready for call backs on the corner cracking. Plumbers and electricians love drilling less holes, so some savings my be realized with 24"oc. Be careful on headers which are aligned to one edge of the studding (normally the outside edge. Drywaller's will be temped to nail/screw into the inside of header, which is just styrofoam in this case. Lastly, telling a custom home buyer you'd like to try 24" framing will be greeted with significant skepticism. Save it for a Spec.
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