Interesting. Around here, people buy new homes for the reason that they can choose their interior and exterior finishes within the scope of the builder's regular selection or upgrade choices. Model homes are significantly discounted, partly because the builder wants to move on and partly because there is no choice.
On Houzz I regularly see kitchens like this one pulled out because the new owner wants the latest and arguably, timeless trend of white and yet this is where this builder decided to spend money on upgrades that he must recoup.
Tremendous example of thinking "outside the box" and a great example of "problem solving". As an educator, it is very difficult to teach these skills.
I want to add that when I have to paint plastic, rather than scuffing or using a special primer for plastic, I simply hit it with a rattle can of paint formulated for plastic (Krylon, for example). Then I can paint it any colour I want.--most paints contain primers so they adhere well to other paints.
I'm not a professional, but around here (Southern Ontario) there are specialized stair manufacturing companies. ..Fabricated in a factory, using numerically controlled machines and delivered to the jobsite. I presume they'd need some shimming to fit. I also note that one never sees rafter and ridge beam construction here either. Always, trusses made a specialized lumberyards.
m2akita, Yes, diagram 5. Learned a lot from Matt Risinger's videos. He doesn't seem to be a contributor any longer.--kind of like Chuck.
Just want to point out the danger of slipping while getting into or out of these new tubs. Besides not being as deep, the "sunken tubs" have a tile ledge on which one can sit to safely get into or got out of the tub. I don't think a stool by the tub is quite the same. The number of slip and falls that happen in the bathroom and in tubs in particular, is astounding. Why take the chance just to look fancy, schmancy. New isn't always better.
Brian Doherty's article in this same eLetter is how a true professional paints interior woodwork.
Page 5. Frank can't even be bothered removing the hardware from the door and properly sanding the built-up coats of paint around the hardware, from previous hack jobs. Secondly, the accompanying picture is NOT how one paints a door.
The correct method is to paint all panels going with the direction of the wood grain/moulding. Then paint the stiles in the middle of the door, overlapping the rails slightly. Then all the rails, carefully removing brush marks from having painted the middle stiles, with a "sweep through" action. Finally, the outside stiles, from top to bottom, "sweeping through" brush strokes from the horizontal rails. In this manner brush marks will be in the direction of the grain of the wood with a proper transition between rail and stile.
Lightly tipping-off the painted work to remove heavy brush strokes seems to get only passing mention, even though it is extremely important with fast drying latex paints that don't have time to level.
You guys must be better than I am at taking a measurement with a bend in the tape. Sorry, but I'd use pinch rods (or some other means) to get accurate measurements before ordering expensive new windows.
Masking the hardware? You've got to be kidding. Simply remove it. (and sand away the built up mess around the hardware from previous clowns). Paint first thing in the morning and by nighttime it will be dry enough to lightly put the hardware back on for night security.
Old pantyhose make great paint and varnish strainers. Stretch it over the new container and pour.....
Just build the deck properly with substantial, bolted, post braces. (That's why there's a building code.)
"He freely admits that the capacity of the two 24,000-Btu compressor units installed in the ProHOME is overkill, but the cost of the additional capacity was less than $800 more than installing a single compressor with a branch box."
The A/C unit was spec'd by the contractor? Good grief. This is supposed to be "Fine Homebuilding". Get an engineer or architect to do a proper load calculation and spec it correctly.
The worst thing one can do is over-size an A/C unit (as in "extra capacity"). A/C units should run for a long time so that the humidity is removed. An over-sized A/C unit will quickly cool the room/home to the set temperature, but leave an elevated humidity. The home will feel cold and "clammy", and elevated humidity could cause mildew, mustiness and other dampness related problems.
Interior design temperatures were spec'd to 78 F when I was in school, but one now sees 74 F which would have received a "Fail" years ago.
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