Food for thought - might want to avoid putting a rubber coating on something that gets hot Nice thing about metal or masonry crowns is that those materials don't burn.
The low temperature of 140degrees has to do with avoiding condensation in the boiler flue - you don't want the exhaust gasses of the boiler to condense in the heat exchanger (when water to be heated is pulling heat out of the exhaust) - the gasses are extremely corrosive if they don't get evacuated from the heat exchanger, and will eat your boiler alive! Look up "boiler protection" - that's what you're really missing.
Nice to see detailing that continues the vapor barrier from the the underside of the slab to the outside of the exterior wall. First ProHome they got this right with IMHO - as long as they sat the exterior wall footer in some mastic to seal around the foundation J-bolts.
@Fumbletrumet - with a compressive strength of 35psi, each square foot will support 2.5 tons. This conversation (http://forums.finehomebuilding.com/breaktime/general-discussion/how-much-does-house-weigh-0) a house mover worked out that a single story house weight about 50psf, and a two story about 80psf. From what I can see in the framing, the majority of the exterior loads (including the roof load) are on the foundation wall, not the interior slab. Any movement that occurs from live loads will be VERY small, and due to the thermal isolation of the slab even from the foundation wall, the slab should not suffer from thermal expansion and contraction - it can almost be considered part of the "conditioned space".
It would be interesting to see a variation of the Canadian REMOTE wall system, using Mineral Wool. I like the REMOTE system as the vapor barrier is at the exterior surface of the sheathing, and all of the insulation is outside of the vapor barrier - which means that no matter which season (or heating and cooling load), the dew point occurs outside the barrier.
Good theory, but here's a challenge and would be my only concern: the vapor barrier detailing around the foundation footing.
The contractor has a mix of vapor barriers (ProtectoWrap LWM200 and Universal Primer-Free Membrane outside, what I'm guessing is a polyethylene sheet inside), and vapor retarders (ICF, foam board, concrete, and spray foam).
Where the vertical ICF wall meets the footing on the exterior the contractor has a vapor barrier membrane on the top surface of the footing, and on the outside face of the wall, but the two components don't meet and seal against each other - there is a block of foam held in place with spray foam. So right at the joint there is a higher than 0.00 perm component (a retarder not a barrier). On the inside a similar issue occurs, the liquid membrane barrier on the footing extends inside the ICF wall, but then a foam board is placed over the join and the sheet under-slab barrier is then only "sealed" to the ICF interior wall, which again has a perm above 0.00 (a retarder, not a barrier).
I think if the contractor had installed the first course of ICF and reapplied fluid membrane to couple the footing-top barrier to the inner and outer ICF surfaces, then the subsequent barrier treatments (stick on exterior sheet, and underslab sheet) would be 100% effective as a continuous vapor barrier.
Probably just as important as how panels are placed is the way the panels are wired. If you expect a lot of shade to hit an array due to the structure, wiring the panels so that a full series is simultaneously shaded will just drop that string out of the array.
A little late for this project, but I propose a different recipe:
* Vapor barrier below footing (Stego Wrap or equivalent), up inside wall of footing.
* Geotextile down first over whole foundation surface.
* At least 2" of #5 crushed stone as a capillary break over the geotextile (geotextile keeps the crushed stone from sinking into the soil)
* Drain pipe set in the crushed stone
* Vapor barrier placed over entire slab pour area, and tied into the footing vapor barrier.
* Slab poured on top
* Rain shedding wrap tied to the outside of vapor barrier at the foundation footing. Makes whole house like a "boat" - only the water that should be there (humidity/vapor) can get in.
Outside your foundation, I would think a P-trap would be necessary, of at least 6" length below between the through-slab drain pipe 90° downturn and the 180° upwards return bend - to keep the upper vent pipe from drawing in outside air. Should you later wish to retrofit a fully passive vent with a powered fan, I commonly see 4" WC as a maximum suction number - so 6" of p-trap length should give you some margin.
At the top of your vent pipe, the use of a wind directional chimney cap would position the outlet of the vent pipe always downwind, increasing venturi effect and also as a hood, preventing precipitation-sourced water ingress to your foundation footing drain from above the roof.
I used to work in the Home Theater Installation industry in the S.F. Bay Area in the mid to late '90s, and then in the consumer electronics industry selling into the same market in the mid '00s.
Many commercials are out there now for products that provide "home automation" when they are demonstrating "remote control", two completely different things. Automation is when the system either sees you doing something or predicts it. Think of it like muscle memory - you don't spend brain power doing it day-in and day-out. You put in your DVD and the entertainment system sets itself up and dims the lights, closes the curtains and puts your phone ringer on low or "flash", locks your exterior doors, and sets your alarm to home. All you did was put in a DVD, but the rest of that is true "automation". If you're sitting there fiddling with your thermostat directly on an iPad, that is remote control.
Based on my own personal experience, I see three markets that "home automation" serves:
1) The "wealthy" or "businesses" - these are those people who would be talking to the person you spoke with that quoted you $120K. This customer who doesn't want to know how it works, but just wants it to work. The installer takes care of all installation and maintenance, and the home owner never touches anything by the DVD tray, or a remote control. This is probably also the customer that doesn't always drive themselves, doesn't make all of their own meals, and never does any cleaning or laundry. Products sold into this market are intended to be installed and supported by professional installers - thus the support infrastructure and documentation is designed around that idea (they charge installers for "trainings" and give them membership grade logins to their support sites). Crestron, Control4, AMX, and others fit in this category.
2) The "realistic end-user" - this is a customer that isn't made of money, but still sees the benefits of home automation. For this customer, several vendors are trying to penetrate this market from the #1 market, with mixed success. I have heard stories like yours countless times from various customers and conversations with installers over the years. The old favorite "system" for this customer is the X-10 products, however I prefer SmartHome's Insteon products as a replacement. You will also find a large number of "smart" remote controls like the Philips Pronto and Logitech Harmony that attempt to do best efforts with the limited feedback they get from devices (if at all). Dealing with my parents remodel, we put in smart light switches and wired the house for network phone and cable all home run to a single cabinet. They are technophobes and stated that they didn't want the entertainment center to "be a shrine to electronics". I did my utmost here, but there are limitations to how well equipment plays with each other - HDMI CEC is supported only in "spotty" fashion in the CE industry, and since just about everything in the HDMI spec is optional, "nice-to-have" features are usually the first cut when the ship date looms near. This is the segment where the homeowner used to turn on the lights and clean themselves, and do their laundry (and may still do their yard work). As the homeowner gets more savvy and wants more control, they may gain enough knowledge to climb into the #3 market category:
3) "Geeks" - before any of you take offense, I work at a computer company in the Silicon Valley, I include myself here with pride. This is the "roll-your-own" category, where there is sufficient know-how and will, but no products that do things they way we want. Closed systems like Crestron, Control4, or AMX are not welcome here since the companies that run them aren't willing to "share" - however, this group is also not afraid to use parts from those companies that have been reverse engineered, or can be easily high-jacked for our own purposed (RS-232, IR, CEC, etc). Commonly in this group, you will see products from the #2 market absorbed as well, since they are usually dumber and less strictly controlled. There is also a lot of strife with the customer and the product sellers here - when a customer asks the manufacturer for their RS-232 codes, most companies I have dealt with freak out and wonder why you would want to touch that interface - "It's so complicated!" they say. They fear that there is a support nightmare lurking if they reply with a nice clean PDF containing the codes. Unfortunately even as a professional Home Theater Installer, I frequently ran into this there with component manufacturers - they would wonder why I don't want to buy their $4,000 box when I had a $300 computer that was already running everything else in the house. However, this group is usually the most friendly and helpful of all the groups. As shown by the poster tschak909 here.
When it comes to home automation, I like to make a play on Einstein's quote about scientific principals: A home automation system should be as simple as possible, but no simpler.
Since you wanted to "roll your own," you need to think about what you actually want to do with the system. Do you really need that thermostat in every room? Is it going to cost you more than $150 to do the thermostat? If so, why not get a hardware store 7-day programmable? Do you have an issue with kids coming over and leaving a window open in the summer? Take the power bill out of their allowance!!
I can understand doing all of the lights with a simple system, SmartHome's Insteon allows for scenes and pairing, and if you truly decide you want to get more advanced, you can buy parts that will add functionality without having to re-wire everything (and without a PHD).
Take a moment at realize that I am telling you that you don't usually move from market #2 to market #1, you normally move the other way to market #3. That number 1-3 indicates your level of understanding of "what you want and how it's doing it". If you're not sure what you want or how to do it and have tons a cash that you have no other use for - that's why we have market #1 ;-).
I also wanted to take a moment to pontificate about home security systems: Security is a PROCESS not a PRODUCT. anyone who is telling you otherwise is selling you something.
Good security design is based around the principals of:
Window and door sensors just inform the alarm box that your home has already been violated. If you are lucky, your alarm company (assuming you didn't roll your own, and thus aren't in danger inside your home) can classify the alarm with audio or video on-site, and have the Police Department respond. However, I see constantly on the news hat someone got great video of the act of someone riffling through their possessions, but they left before the police came. They were missing "delay".
You hear stories on the big alarm company commercials about "not feeling safe in your home," or that they "felt violated." Adding an alarm system doesn't change this if it still takes your local Law Enforcement 5-10 minutes to get there, and assuming your department even responds to alarms any more.
You want to detect the "baddies" as soon as possible - at the outside of your fence line, or on the side-walk at the end of your driveway. You classify them based on what they are doing:
* Do they walk by?
* Do they loiter?
* Do they enter?
You want to delay them as much as possible based on the time required for classifying them, and responding to them. Think fences, barbed wire, rose bushes, or cacti - rocks and other obstructions. At the house or building, think security screens or bars, good locks on good doors. Ideally if this is a home security system you want to have had enough time to classify them as a threat, contact the Police, and have the police actually get there. This could be between 5 minutes and hours if you live in the middle of no where. If they breech one perimeter, it should be increasingly harder to get to the things you want to protect - and it should be remembered that this only adds DELAY. People who really want to get, are desperate, in or are missing some mental faculty will still get in your home if here is sign on your lawn saying "protected by..." (unless they are standing is a guard both on the property, that sign should read "monitored by...").
Now if you are home you pull your family into an "Alamo" and hold the fort. If they are trying very hard to get inside your home that is one level of threat and the Police should be told that - if they manage to kick down a door or enter through a window, the threat changes, and again the police should be told that (if every squad car in the city or county isn't rushing to your home at that point, remember that come the next election). It's best to have at least one "Alamo" in your home - it may have a mixed purpose like a master bedroom. Put a heavy duty exterior door on that room, and provide the ability to lock or barricade the door shut when you are inside. If they try to get in there, again the police should be told that you are in mortal danger, and they should be breaking every speed law on the book getting to you. I leave it up to the reader to consider what to do after that door gets breached. Different people have different ideals, and various cities counties and states have various laws.
If you are not at home, think about this. If you have an alarm, that will inform the "baddies" that they have a limited time to work with, you only need to protect the things that are most dear to you. Documents, family heirlooms, pictures, should all be stored in a safe or even TAKEN OFF-SITE when you are not around. I like digital picture frames for pictures - if someone steals them, so what. It's insured, get another one and load the pictures back on. Your data may not be that safe on site, so store it off site or keep a copy on a fire/theft resistant hard drive like an ioSafe drive. You can bolt it to the building, and it will last through a fire - so even if the computer is stolen, your data will stay with you.
Who cares if someone breaks into your home while you're not there? Okay, so your personal space was violated, but don't think that's the same thing as having a crime committed against your person.
So I mentioned several "products", but note that is was an example of fitting part of a larger process, you need to stop, sit down and really think about what you are trying to do with everything you have. Is it so easy to use that you can't imagine doing it another way? Does it work together seamlessly? Does it ruin your home's esthetic like the HGTV show Million Dollar Rooms, is there a kludge of various controllers (temperature, lights, curtains, security, music, door-phone, beer dispenser...) on the wall where there should just be a light switch or a single touch panel?
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