cowtown

i'd love to try this next time. looks great, but just before the video cuts to say "now that is clean" the image shows a line of caulk about 1/8 of an inch above the arisse. I think I'd use the damp rag to clean that off.

I'm thinking it won't be so successful with stained or natural wood finishes...

Eric

Ill go along with the previous comments. I got tired of measuring backset for various skill saws, and if you go off track in to the door yer hooped. The orudent person would use a jig that would not allow the saw to off track in the wrong direction.

I carry a jig in the truck which wraps around the door on both sides, square to the side, Not 3/4mdf. but rather 1/4" baltic birch. I dont score with paint grade doors, but would with veneer doors. The jig acts as a zero clearance saw guide and is held in place with Jorgenson spring clamps. I too use the cut off inset and simply reglue it with a few of the same spring clamps, using my jig as a caul to distribute the pressure evenly. Glued up and with a couple of passes of a block plane to chamfer the edges and all is well. No compressor, no table saw; and if you use a slower cordless saw, the mess is minimal.

used iterations of this jig for 20 years now, even used it to trim down about 40 metal exterior doors on one contract.

You use a hacksaw to cut through the wraparound on each side, cause the skill saw will not do nice things to them unless they are precut.

these doors were foam filled, so after deburring the edges of the metal, which will cause serious damage to flesh otherwise, a 71 router plane was used to pare out the foam fill appropriately. Then the blocking was reglued in place, and the wrap-around sweep kept the cut edges hidden and in place.

Eric

I think you'll find that Starret makes what they call a "boo-boo" arbour to handle exactly this kind of situation.

Now, if only they'd made a device to make the hole smaller!!!

Eric

well, I've learned some new terms like "blow patch" bandage patch, and I'll add the term I learned from god knows where..."hot patch"

I've done this using plaster of paris to set the patch in place, mixing it with weldbond for adhesion, but better be real quick. Spritzing the edges of the cut out with water gives you a few more seconds to set the patch

Once set up, coat with a quickset 20, go for a coffee, cover with finishing compound, point a heater at it, get another coffee, (don't leave the heater unattended). sand, prime and paint. It works.

but recently, I acquired a bag of vario mud for the tapeless drywall system.

http://www.edp-inc.net/

been patching drywall with it for the past few months, without tape and the associated feathering. Costs around 80 CDN a bag, but theres no tape joint to feather out, ergo no bulge in the wall no flash out. It's got it's characteristics, but so far good results.

If anyone is interested, I just patched a wall for a window replacement and can post photos.

Dry time to recoat is maybe 35min-1 hr, As calgary is so dry, it's on the quick side here in the summer, maybe longer on an exterior wall in the winter, but still OK in my books.

It does shrink a tad, and is hard to sand, but anyone who's trowelled stuff before puts in on so as to not have to sand.



Eric in Calgary

Last time I got PO'd at the number of batteries that wouldn't hold a charge, would charge in one charger, but not in another, I piled up all the suspects in a pile, and the cost of replacement was 0.5k$

That buys 8 or 10 corded drills whose cords alays fit in the outlets, have more power and are always there with the gumption that gets needed from time to time.

That's half a thousand in consumables.

OK, there is some advantage to be had from these puppies, but you gotta wonder when the 7.2V makitas that you bought 25 years ago keep functioning when the 18V dewalts of 5 years ago don't.

Them early 7.2V were weak buthandy, however now the larger supposedly more powerful 14+V units are clearly over balanced,I'd rather drop a 60 buck corded drill off a step ladder than some 'lectronic space age marvel whose main claim to fame was that it might have saved me 5 minutes in a month, but ended up costing me 4x my hourly rate to repair.

Made no sense to me 5 years ago, makes even less sense now.

The only new bat unit I have purchased in the last few years was the little micro Skil that the salesman dismissed as a "toy" but will fit into the tighter spaces. I think it's a whoppin 3.6V

Battery tools to my mind just don't make economic sense in average applications.

When my grandkids inherit my tools, they is abosolutely gonna love them 14.4V gutles cordless saws that they cannot get batteries for any longer. So sweet.

Meanwhile, them really famous tool mfgrs sell "FLIP-OVER SAWS" in Europe, but not in N.Am.

http://www.knighton-tools.co.uk/acatalog/dewalt_flip_saw.html

nOPE, us po boys gotta buy TWO tools instead of one.

why would I think that marketing don't factor into the equation.

Wanna buy a sh*t load of dead batteries?

I thought not...

Eric in Calgary