Yes! Sign me up for free emails from Fine Homebuilding with the latest news, tips, and techniques.
Transformation of the Week by:
seems like a lotta work to me.
My drying rack is a 2x4 ripped into an octagonal and fit on 6 of the 8 faces with shelf standards,
Height is the same as my shop ceiling, and there's a little octagonal block on the ceiling to recieve it.
shelf supports let me put maybe 15-20 doors per support, stores in a corner, with a bucket to hold shelf supports. modifiable to site if needed. up and down in minutes. will hold doors up to 30" wide, and with judicious placement up to 4 or 5 ' height. Much more flexible, and once made, saves more time and space than this suggestion. Way less floor footprint as well!!
coping vs mitering....
When I was taught by Sy Mason, an old-school english carpenter to apply molding, the first rule was that you should try to minimize the possibility of looking straight into a joint.
With a mitre joint, standing in the centre of the room yer looking directly into most mitred joints.
You walk into a room, and the wall facing you is square cut on each end, most of the other pieces are coped at one end, butt on the other
With a coped joint, yer head has gotta be along the wall to look into the joint.
I much prefer to cope, as with suitabale backcutting on the coped, you can achieve an acceptable joint with a degree or two of motion
Less waste too. A F/U on length of a mitre joint, making it too short, can mean 75 or 100 bucks in wasted material. but with a coped joint, you can easily fine tune the cope by maybe 1/8", and yes you may have a gap at the other end, but it's generally patchable with caulk as it's at the painted wall juncture.
Some other tricks I use are to use a 23g pinner to tack in place. Rationally placed, they will hold the piece in place (but I do use jacks to help support it. Wanna take the piece down, Electronic wire cutters will fit behind it and cut the pins, 18g pins used once I is happy
Instead of sandpaper, I use rasps and files
And yes, I use an oscillating saw to augment/replace the coping saw. A recent epiphany.
Eric in Calgary
i'd love to try this next time. looks great, but just before the video cuts to say "now that is clean" the image shows a line of caulk about 1/8 of an inch above the arisse. I think I'd use the damp rag to clean that off.
I'm thinking it won't be so successful with stained or natural wood finishes...
Ill go along with the previous comments. I got tired of measuring backset for various skill saws, and if you go off track in to the door yer hooped. The orudent person would use a jig that would not allow the saw to off track in the wrong direction.
I carry a jig in the truck which wraps around the door on both sides, square to the side, Not 3/4mdf. but rather 1/4" baltic birch. I dont score with paint grade doors, but would with veneer doors. The jig acts as a zero clearance saw guide and is held in place with Jorgenson spring clamps. I too use the cut off inset and simply reglue it with a few of the same spring clamps, using my jig as a caul to distribute the pressure evenly. Glued up and with a couple of passes of a block plane to chamfer the edges and all is well. No compressor, no table saw; and if you use a slower cordless saw, the mess is minimal.
used iterations of this jig for 20 years now, even used it to trim down about 40 metal exterior doors on one contract.
You use a hacksaw to cut through the wraparound on each side, cause the skill saw will not do nice things to them unless they are precut.
these doors were foam filled, so after deburring the edges of the metal, which will cause serious damage to flesh otherwise, a 71 router plane was used to pare out the foam fill appropriately. Then the blocking was reglued in place, and the wrap-around sweep kept the cut edges hidden and in place.
I think you'll find that Starret makes what they call a "boo-boo" arbour to handle exactly this kind of situation.
Now, if only they'd made a device to make the hole smaller!!!
well, I've learned some new terms like "blow patch" bandage patch, and I'll add the term I learned from god knows where..."hot patch"
I've done this using plaster of paris to set the patch in place, mixing it with weldbond for adhesion, but better be real quick. Spritzing the edges of the cut out with water gives you a few more seconds to set the patch
Once set up, coat with a quickset 20, go for a coffee, cover with finishing compound, point a heater at it, get another coffee, (don't leave the heater unattended). sand, prime and paint. It works.
but recently, I acquired a bag of vario mud for the tapeless drywall system.
been patching drywall with it for the past few months, without tape and the associated feathering. Costs around 80 CDN a bag, but theres no tape joint to feather out, ergo no bulge in the wall no flash out. It's got it's characteristics, but so far good results.
If anyone is interested, I just patched a wall for a window replacement and can post photos.
Dry time to recoat is maybe 35min-1 hr, As calgary is so dry, it's on the quick side here in the summer, maybe longer on an exterior wall in the winter, but still OK in my books.
It does shrink a tad, and is hard to sand, but anyone who's trowelled stuff before puts in on so as to not have to sand.
Eric in Calgary
FineHomebuilding.com and GreenBuildingAdvisor.com are part ofthe Taunton Home and Garden Network
Taunton Home |
Books & Videos |
Contact Us |
Product recall information
Copyright Notice |
Taunton Guarantee |
User Agreement |
About Us |
Work for Us |
Contact Us |
Press Room | Customer Service
| Subscriber Alert
© 2015 The Taunton Press, Inc., Part of Taunton’s Men’s Network. All rights reserved.