Wish you'd panned back to show the entire corner. Regardless, it's apparent this would make a big difference in end appearance. Thanks.
Rather than a wire brush, even a brass one, use a hard bristle scrub brush. It's less damaging to the individual bristles.
While we've all tapped a brush against our toes to knock out most the water, this is very hard on the ferrule holding the bristles. Over time, it will loosen the nails securing the ferrule.
To make the brush easier to clean, wet it with the solvent you'd use to thin or clean the paint. If the bristles are wet before the brush is dipped, they'll soak up less paint.
I have a couple rules for using my brushes: If I'm stopping for up to twenty minutes, I wrap the brush well in a grocery bag. Anything more than that and I wash it and store it in the original [or replacement] sleeve.
ALWAYS keep and use the sleeves your brush came in. They shape the brush, as it dries.
It rather sounds like there is much confusion, even among those who build for a living.
If the idea is to get the attic to the same temperature as the outdoors, to avoid ice dams or heat transfer [into the house], the ideal system is no roof at all.
Obviously, that isn't going to keep rain out or otherwise work well. However, it suggests you should be good to go, as long as air COULD transfer (e.g., enough ventilation area available).
I presume, perhaps erroneously, you aren't going to create air merely based on the configuration of your vents. Instead, you are going to allow air to move by not forcing it to overcome pressure where it, otherwise, might escape.
To qualify that, if heat does tend to rise, you would want to plan to take advantage of that fact. Accordingly, you'd want vents on the high and low.
From the foregoing, it would stand a critical issue is actual area of the vents. Needless to say, both inlet and outlet vents should be equal and each adequate to move an amount of air sufficient to avoid temperature differentials that cause condensation, ice dams and so forth.
If heat does rise (guess we get air flow now, huh?), a difference in potential, so to speak, between the inlet and outlet would be important. As such, soffit venting and ridge venting might be ideal. At the least, soffit venting and numerous roof vents, mounted high, would seem important.
To insure nothing alters the flow, shields to maintain the air path insulation might fill should be in place.
I'm not an engineer, don't know squat about physics (except that apples tend to fall down), so please feel free to jump in with corrections or additions.
I live in a house which suffered the "minimum" code for flooring. You couldn't play an LP record for the bounce of the relatively short runs that were in code.
I tried the sistering, using construction glue and fasteners and it helped only marginally.
After a lot of on line research, I started seeing the same solution over and over - adding to the bottoms of floor joists, instead of sistering.
The concept, as explained, used strips of metal about 1-1/2" wide, about 1/8" thick and the length of each joist fastened to the bottom of each joist. The theory was, iron does not stretch, so the joists could not bow, if the metal was properly fastened(as CableRigger suggested).
Obviously, the concept works on bridges. However, this approach complicates securing sheet rock. As such, I have to wonder if attaching the strip vertically and at the bottom of the 2x would offer the same improvement.
I settled for adding 2x4's, again using fasteners and construction glue, to the bottoms of my joists. I also added previously missing cross braces, to spread the loads. Now, movement of the floor is minimal and the stereo can be played without having to be suspended from the ceiling.
Since I can't edit, I'll add a comment:
Thanks to both rj and Chuck. This kind of information was VERY difficult to find even six years ago. I did a LOT of digging, but information was sketchy.
It appears the nicest thing I could do is what the locals do in their huge shops and that's spray in.
Too, until I learn more, I presume closed cell would be best for that.
Not talked about is the sound advantage of a well sealed home. If you stop air movement, you stop most sound.
For example, I stood next to a window installed by a Prosser, Washington, "handyman" and I can hear conversations on the other side, clearly. The same installation with quality flashing and non-expanding foam makes the same window nearly sound proof.
I've stood in a kitchen with open walls and no insulation (you could see the Tyvek) and didn't know there was a wind storm raging outside.
Now I'm confused, rjparker indicates reflective barriers are snake oil, but the blog site ChuckB recommends (page quoted below) backs what I did in the attic of my garage.
That said, it appears the site Chuck directed us to indicates, as does rj, religious insulation and sealing makes radiant barriers snake oil, but open spaces, like my roof, or even poorly insulated (e.g., 3-1/2" walls with the usual air gaps associated with glass) would still produce results. If I understand correctly.
I don't know what happened, but most insulation no longer comes with a reflective barrier. A few decades back, it was very common to find rolls with the barrier. I presume it was discontinued to save a buck.
For my shop, I went out to a restaurant supply and bought the commercial rolls of aluminum. One roll covers most of a 20' x 20' area.
When I install it, I leave an air gap of about 1/2" between the foil and the outer wall. This stops conductivity otherwise resulting from contact and which would greatly reduce efficiency.
For the actual installation, I cut out strips of cardboard from old boxes. This helps keep the foil from tearing at the staples.
Before installation, the underside of my roof felt like an infra red heater. Once installed, there was a notable difference in the temperature of everything below the roof.
So, yes, this works.
It's been my experience that, until you can replace them, florescent lights generate enough heat that putting them in any kind of enclosure destroys any life gain you otherwise had.
My daughter's room ate bulbs, until I quit putting a cover over them, or switched to one with open sides.
Many pig-lights state they should not be installed in enclosed fixtures.
The foregoing aside, we switched all our dine from cans to LED's, added a dimmer to the four-way circuit and are totally thrilled with them.
Next, we installed rigid light bars (45 LED's ea - bright white) and ran them off a magnetic power supply, which allowed us to dim them on the 120 VAC side. By setting them back from the front trim, about 1-1/2", they light the entire counter. Ninety percent of the time, my wife uses just these [at full power] and the over-sink lights for most her kitchen chores.
I appreciate the story, because I have a Craftsman 5oz hammer I feel the same way about. I picked it up about thirty years ago and have never found another hammer I like as much, when doing fine work, such as around glass or detail cabinetry. I've been looking for another in all the years since I acquired the one I have, but haven't had any luck. So it remains hidden from shop visitors who might mistake it for "just a hammer."
Kelly, of Washington
The shingle/shake mill shown in the video was pretty fancy, compared to the majority of mills. Most look like long abandoned commercial enterprises. Rusted correlated metal walls and roofs are the norm. Wiring (single and three phase) is hobbled together. Heavy equipment, often from at or near the turn of the century, is patched and kept running on little more than ingenuity and drive.
Just while I lived there, one mill owner suffered three fires at three different mills. The loss of raw wood from one mill alone was in the tens of thousands of dollars. This is a common concern among mill owners.
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