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A few years ago I got a 31 day expanding file for organizing and storing sandpaper. Labelled all the tabs for grit sizes. There are about 28 common grit sizes…
My concern is where am I going to get a battery packs and other parts for this tool a few years down the road assuming the tool survives
I wish power tool manufacturers would get together and standardize all the battery packs.
I know it will probably never happen, but I wish cordless tool battery packs were standardized across the industry.
I ususally don't comment too much on these forum, but my miter saw is one of my most versatile and commonly used tools.
"One person suggested a modular approach, with a basic stand and more tailored options (e.g., framing or finish work). What do you think?"
I think a miter saw and stand need to be chosen for the specific application, each with different needs:
Furniture: accuracy, stability
Trim: accuracy, long infeed/outfeed, cut versatility
Construction: portability, ruggedness, board capacity
Flooring: portability, good dust collection
Even the saw choice is affected by the application. For example, some may find that a slider saw has too much side-to-side play for accurate furniture cuts, but it's perfect for construction.
"And what about materials? Most of us are comfortable with wood, less so with metal. Would the advantages of metal (weight, rigidity) outweigh the difficulty of building a stand with it?"
For portability, aluminum would be ideal. Fairly easy to work with if you are building you own stand. Anything coming in contact with the wood should not be bare aluminum.
"And no one, I think, has mentioned cost. Do you have a top end for a stand you’d build yourself."
The stand shouldn't cost more than the saw.
I use a Delta Kickstand with a Bosch 10" miter saw. I hope the new articulated arm saw comes out in a 10" version someday.
Very stable heavy duty construction
Good infeed and outfeed rollers with a wide range of adjustments.
Large 10" wheels make easy to haul up and down stairs.
I can park my shopvac under it and connect the hose to the saw. Getting all the sawdust to go into it is another matter.
Ironically, the Kickstand has no kickstand to store it vertically. I'll make my own when I have time. It was made to store flat which is OK in the truck, but not in the garage.
The knobs for the feed roller extensions put tension on welded nuts when tightening them. Eventually he weld breaks.
What I added:
Storage box with sliding top with enough room for material clamps, crown molding clamps, and measuring tools. Same height as the saw base.
What every stand needs:
A place to hold/store pencils. I'm always losing them. Easy to DIY though. How about a pencil sharpener too?
More storage is always a bonus.
A power strip, or provisions to add your own.
Adjustable measuring tape on both sides.
A quick way to remove/attach the saw to the stand.
Material stops that give you more range than the ones on the saw.
Extensions rollers with a flip-up/flip-down backstops. Useful to keep skinny trim from flopping around.
Look at products like Cuprinol or Wolmans.
Have detailed plans and the scope of the project in writing and agreed upon with the customer. Discuss a plan for change orders with the customer ahead of time. Let them know they are welcome to change or add on to a project, within reason, but it will affect the price and completion time.
The game was letting me select the same thing multiple times. Also I don't think gutters and downspouts were common on homes of this era. Exterior door is not original.
I tend to read most articles, but seldom watch videos. I don't know what kind of time commitment I need for a video, but I can always skim an article and pick up where I left off if I get interrupted.
For electrical wiring, many of us have to pipe conduit, so articles using Romex aren't very useful.
Why not include some of the off-brands in tool comparisons? Even though you may think they are unprofessional, many buy them as throwaways or for job sites where theft is an issue.
Some of the tool tests could be more scientific. For example, I would love to see a test on miter saws where you put a tension gauge and a dial indicator on the blade to see how much side-to-side deflection there is. Why not get a decibel meter and measure how loud those tools are?
More of us are using CAD or drawing software for even basic layout drawings, and spreadsheets for job planning. Perhaps some articles on that would be useful.
I must confess I let my paper subscription to FHB lapse. Some of the articles were too basic, many had great info, while others were too esoteric. It's a big challenge to provide a mix of articles that interest everybody. I feel FHB's strength has always been the great illustrations and useful tips and techniques. Also love the tools reviews, but they need to be more brutally honest, advertiser dollars be damned.
I've found the vinyl caps from a companies like Caplugs (http://www.caplugs.com/) or Stock Caps (http://www.stockcap.com) work great. Just slip a cap over the caulk nozzle when you are done. Keeps the caulk from drying out for months if need be. Polyurethane caulk tends to clog the inside of the cap after a few uses, but the caps are cheap enough to throw away. The difficulty is I haven't found anyone that sells these at the retail level. They would certainly be cheap enough, and companies can easily have their name printed on them as promo items, like "Fine Homebuilding".
There are other products like CaulkSaver (http://www.caulksaver.com) and Caulk Saver Plug (http://www.caulksaverplug.com) that go inside the nozzle. Haven't tried them but it looks like more work since they have to be cleaned for reuse.
To get a bit more caulk out at the end of a tube, wad up some of your used paper towels and put them inside the caulk tube body (a small chunk of wook works too). Sometimes your caulk gun runs out of travel before the tube is 100% finished.
What about the grout joints? If the bonding sheet flexes, the grout joints will fail. Stick on tiles are nothing new. After a few years of moisture exposure, the tiles come loose.
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