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If you have to drill some holes in drywall in a finished room, you could get out the vacuum after you're done -- but there's a better way. Geoff Hazel…
"hey boss, if we cut around these defects, we won't have enough material for all the treads" .... "Then leave 'em. We'll just put them on the underside and call it 'character'."
Agree on the pre-nailgun era.
Also I was waiting for the top of the casing to splinter out when he was running his blockplane.
Wish we could have seen the final fit!
As you're probably now aware, with drywall mud, less is more. two or three thin coats will give you a nice finish that needs almost no sanding. If you try to make it look nice in one go, you're in trouble. It actually amazes me how much it improves from coat to coat even if you scrape it as thin as you can.
The miter clamps look great but I wonder: how much of a mark or indent do they leave on the wood?
Where's the part where "you hope it doesn't sink" prevention?
Poor man's Zipwall. Would work OK once you get that 2x2 up there in the first place. How about tucking the plastic under the bottoms of the pipes to keep the plastic taut?
I disagree that a wet saw is "quicker" than scratch and snap. For the right tiles and the right cuts, scratch and snap is much faster. The wet saw wins for small edge cuts and cuts that aren't a straight line or plunge cuts.
Was there a change of guard in the "Better Way" series? What's Chuck Miller up to?
I like hot mud when I have a project that has to get done quickly, or a small job that I can get two coats on before leaving. For a big job that I'm in no hurry for, I prefer regular mud. The two drawbacks of hot mud are that it's much harder to clean your tools and bucket and it's harder to sand. I've found that I have to clean the tools and bucket (and mixing paddle) completely, otherwise leftover mud catalyzes the next batch and it sets much faster.
That had to be the most useless video I've ever seen on Fine Homebuilder's site.
Caulk it. Use 100% acrylic paint. Use two coats if you have to.
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