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If you have to drill some holes in drywall in a finished room, you could get out the vacuum after you're done -- but there's a better way. Geoff Hazel…
As you're probably now aware, with drywall mud, less is more. two or three thin coats will give you a nice finish that needs almost no sanding. If you try to make it look nice in one go, you're in trouble. It actually amazes me how much it improves from coat to coat even if you scrape it as thin as you can.
The miter clamps look great but I wonder: how much of a mark or indent do they leave on the wood?
Where's the part where "you hope it doesn't sink" prevention?
Poor man's Zipwall. Would work OK once you get that 2x2 up there in the first place. How about tucking the plastic under the bottoms of the pipes to keep the plastic taut?
I disagree that a wet saw is "quicker" than scratch and snap. For the right tiles and the right cuts, scratch and snap is much faster. The wet saw wins for small edge cuts and cuts that aren't a straight line or plunge cuts.
Was there a change of guard in the "Better Way" series? What's Chuck Miller up to?
I like hot mud when I have a project that has to get done quickly, or a small job that I can get two coats on before leaving. For a big job that I'm in no hurry for, I prefer regular mud. The two drawbacks of hot mud are that it's much harder to clean your tools and bucket and it's harder to sand. I've found that I have to clean the tools and bucket (and mixing paddle) completely, otherwise leftover mud catalyzes the next batch and it sets much faster.
That had to be the most useless video I've ever seen on Fine Homebuilder's site.
Caulk it. Use 100% acrylic paint. Use two coats if you have to.
When I need to fill the bottom, I've found that sometimes the facing on the block you just cut out will detach from the block with a little encouragement from a chisel, or if need be, run it through the tablesaw to remove the facing or veneer. I'll also skip the brad nailer, and throw a couple of clamps on that glued in piece. That way you avoid getting the nailer/compressor out -- and hey, it was glued in before, wasn't it?
For small holes that don't need any backing like a doorknob push-through, I've taken a piece of drywall about 3" oversize in all directions, draw the hole on the back and score around it, then crack and peel the core off the front paper. Butter the edges and paper with drywall compound, insert in hole atand feather. The patch usually winds up a tiny bit lower than the surrounding wall but that fills in nicely on the 2nd coat.
Saves time cutting a piece of backing and installling it and fiddling with small pieces of paper tape or mesh.
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