If you have to drill some holes in drywall in a finished room, you could get out the vacuum after you're done -- but there's a better way. Geoff Hazel…
I learned with a coping saw, and after seeing all the grinder comments tried it once. It worked mostly OK but I was using MDF material and boy howdy, was there a lot of dust! I'll probably stick with the coping saw.
the dedicated tool is nice. anything is better than a normal utility knife, which always seems to find the hand that is holding the wire instead of the wire itself when slitting or trimming the sheath.
"hey boss, if we cut around these defects, we won't have enough material for all the treads" .... "Then leave 'em. We'll just put them on the underside and call it 'character'."
Agree on the pre-nailgun era.
Also I was waiting for the top of the casing to splinter out when he was running his blockplane.
Wish we could have seen the final fit!
As you're probably now aware, with drywall mud, less is more. two or three thin coats will give you a nice finish that needs almost no sanding. If you try to make it look nice in one go, you're in trouble. It actually amazes me how much it improves from coat to coat even if you scrape it as thin as you can.
The miter clamps look great but I wonder: how much of a mark or indent do they leave on the wood?
Where's the part where "you hope it doesn't sink" prevention?
Poor man's Zipwall. Would work OK once you get that 2x2 up there in the first place. How about tucking the plastic under the bottoms of the pipes to keep the plastic taut?
I disagree that a wet saw is "quicker" than scratch and snap. For the right tiles and the right cuts, scratch and snap is much faster. The wet saw wins for small edge cuts and cuts that aren't a straight line or plunge cuts.
Was there a change of guard in the "Better Way" series? What's Chuck Miller up to?
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