Subscribe to Fine Homebuilding magazine now and save up to 52%
The challenge of this bathroom was designing the space to house four separate areas: a foyer/changing area, a sauna, a steam shower, and a bathroom proper within a 140 sf…
I couldn't tell from the description here or on the FastenMaster page you linked to, but when talking about post to joist conection are you referring to railing posts? If so, it seems that these would be great to replace the Simpson HD hardware required to meet the 200 pound load minimum. Even with the new Simpson brackets that came out earlier this year, the elimination of placing and drilling that bolt hole certainly would make up for the extra cost of the bolts.
I've got the newer Bosch T4B miter saw stand with a Makita 10" slider on it.
I was hoping the stand would be an answer to all my problems for its convenience and portability. That's partly correct, but partly not. Here's the pros and cons of this particular stand in my opinion:
- Easy to transport with the saw attached. I can collapse it and wheel it right up and into the back of my pickup
- stable, the stand doesn't rock much when being used, even when holding heavy material in place
- big pneumatic tires roll pretty easily over terrain, and up and down stairs without marring treads
- outfeeds are long enough to handle decent lengths of material
-easy to open/close the stand - very easy to store the stand folded up.
-always handy to have a repeat-cut stop, even though it isn't the best on this stand
- outfeeds are not stable enough when working with heavy lumber. The offset 2 - pole design lets them rock back and forth. This can be compensated for by adjusting the support, but is a bit of a pain when you're ready to start cutting.
- outfeed support tops are not long enough, so narrow stock cannot be supported without clamping something longer to the top of the outfeed (may be different with different saws, but both my Makitas sit such that there's a 1" or so gap between the plane of the saw fence and the edge of the support.)
I think having a fixed miter saw stand is always going to be the most stable way to cut, however, it isn't always practical when bouncing from one job to the next. If I'm on a job for several weeks at a time, then I could justify building something, but I'd have to do it per job, since storage and transportation are going to be the 2 biggest detriments to that. I enjoy working out of a small pickup, and I don't want to bring a trailer if I don't need to, so portability of compactness are 2 of the biggest attributes.
A built - in tape measure is handy for rough, quick cuts, but I wouldn't trust it for doing finish/cabinetry work.
For my workshop miter saw stand I have an 8' outfeed table on the left, and a 4' on the right. I jigged up a "t" that I clamp to the edge of the table for repeat cuts. Having that repeatability is a definite must for me for any stand.
So there's my 2 or 10 cents worth to start it off.
Absolutely beautiful. Everything about it is just right.
Thanks Dingus, these are the kinds of projects that make all the bad times go away. It had its share of hurdles, as they all do, but it was a great challenge, great clients, great materials, lots of fun woodworking, and I've got a few more plans on the horizon with them now.
© 2017 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved.
Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.
Start your subscription today and save up to 52%