Use code GIFT25
Good info but this isn't meant to help anyone that doesn't understand plumb, level or how the diagonal planes need to be considered. I don't agree with attaching the door using only screws through the brick moulding and a few hinges through the hinges. You need to go through the jamb on the latch side also, at the points where you shim.
And as stated by Dechezet, the fit and operation of the door is paramount to everything else and in the "real" world, let's face it - this video is just not the reality unless you are able to handle all the steps leading up to the door installation ;)
I am on my second iPhone and my second Defender case. I definitely recommend the Otterbox case if you own an iPhone and work in dusty, harsh environments. My first iPhone 3G lasted 2 years before I sold it ($195 via eBay) and upgraded to the iPhone4. I fully expect this phone to last the life of the contract and be in good enough shape to sell for top dollar at the end of the contract. All thanks to the Defender case.
The case shown here is not for the current iPhone model though. The newer case does provide slightly less protection from dust which is something to keep in mind. If I'm working with MDF or other material which produces fine dust particles, I will keep the phone in my pocket and not holstered.
I use the DW717 10" SCMS and recommend it. But, it does seem Dewalt has had a fair amount of criticism over the 12" SCMS and you would think that, by now, they would have addressed it... Seems like everyone else is innovating and Dewalt is just resting on past designs, flawed or not.
I have used the dewalt stand for years and find it the most useful and durable features for a trim carpenter when easy set up and portability is a big concern. Modifications that I've made involved purchasing an additional set of saw mounts which I then attached plywood planks to create large outfeed extensions on the side. This allowed me to place a track mounted material stop for shorter cuts that couldn't be made as the stand was designed unless you removed the outer supports and moved them onto the track.
The golf ball trick is interesting to me because it creates an option to outfit my current Bosch jigsaw to perform like it had a Collins Co. coping foot attached. I used that attachment for years which allows you to run the jigsaw on the back edge of the crown ( or any moulding . I would think the user that came up with this trick was familiar with the Collins Coping foot. If not, look it up on the internet because it is a safer way to get the same results if you have a jigsaw designed to work with it.
As far as getting rid of the jigsaw I don't agree with that. I've coped both ways and using the collins coping foot with the proper blade ( Bosch 244 I believe ) is faster than using a coping saw. You still need to have files on hand for fine adjusments though.
When I am building items which are considered built-ins and as such are designed to fit within a specific space then I would prefer to build such a piece on site so it's easy to reference the area when needed. Many times though I do a good deal of the prep/cutting in my shop because that is where my stationary tools are located and there are no worries about having everything that I need on-hand. I also don't have to worry about not having an ideal place to set up shop. Most of us can't afford the nice set ups those "Made for T.V." carpenters have. And how many times have you seen those guys use finish guns and glue on a butt joint when building a carcass? Shame!
As far as considering where to build your cabinets and how that affects construction techniques it really doesn't change how I build my cabinets or built-in units. I still use pocket hole jigging and biscuits ( maybe one day I can move up to the Domino from Festool but until then my trusty PC plate joiner works great ) combined with glue and clamps. You're not going to find a great number of people willing to pay the extra money for older and stronger construction techniques like motrise and tenon. If all the pieces are prepped and jointed properly a stationary cabinet/built-in constructed with those techniques will hold up just fine IMO
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