Saw this tip a while back. Actual showed a group of Boy Scouts and adults working on an Eagle Scout project which required some Sonotube forms. This tip works great and have the guide in my shop for the next concrete project.
Thanks - Rick
Nice fix - what size straw? Hole size.
Did you ever think about just short chaining the flapper?
In other words before hooking the chain on the lever, hook the chain farther down, then hook into the lever.
Wow! like the idea for the corner. Would have to be the right remodel or new construction project to use. Just one thing -- the price. I would not know where to begin to budget for a sink like that. Or even want to show it to a customer. Do I even keep the web site for the manufacture? Wow - three grand for a sink? And I bet the accessories are not included. That doesn't count the cabinet for it.
Wow - pretty detailed for this crowd.
Well first I use a five gallon bucket about 1/2 full to help remove the remaining water in the bowl. How ? By dumping it in rapidly causing a rapid removal of all but a little water in the bowl.
I also use a construction plastic bag to set the toilet in. I roll the edges down, set toilet in the bag, raise the edges and remove. No water spill unless your bag has a hole, so use a new bag.
In some cases I have switched to the new neoprene doughnuts. Does not always work due to flooring, but I like them better than wax. That was a fancy two hole tank.
I use to teach home maintenance for our local Austin Habitat (Texas). In developing the lesson plan an actual walk through the finished home was required.
The point: Several years ago Habitat (here) was foaming roofs. During an on site class we would go into an attic to review what was discussed in class and re-enforce the maintenance items. We would actually sit in the attic area on the air handler decking and play show and tell.
They were using closed cell foam on a new development. On a July day (in Texas) we could stay in the attic. There was no venting so there was no air movement at all. It was warm but not overly hot. The air handler (per code) had a fresh air vent through the roof as was all the pipe waste venting. Felt like you were in a foam ice chest. In fact you were. But it was up side down on you.
Based upon the comments above, why would you vent an area that your trying to control the heat and moisture? I really liked the system they were installing on these Habitat homes (at the time). Due to cost they went back to fiberglass.
Not knowing your framer, sounds like he needs to stick to framing and not insulating or venting. But he does need to know what "You" the owner wants in order to finish his portion.
Good Idea - yes a poor mans Zip Wall.
Nathan - you are right - the pain of cleaning. But, as a remodeler, I have to budget for daily clean up which includes vacuuming. A couple of years ago I invested in a shop vacuum that a collection bag can be installed. What a difference!. Yes there is an expense for the bags, but it is a job cost. I also use wall systems when needed during the demo.
BobboMax - I use to teach the Home Maintenance classes for Austin Habitat. Part of the class discussed painting, but after being on site and watching the "Paint Parties" all I can say is a cleaning party is also needed.
I would think soapy water, wire brush / brush comb, spinner and constant changing the water. Of course that does not fix the brushes with deep down hard paint in the brush. Only a good brush cleaner and time will correct that.
I guess that is why Habitat does not have very good brushes.
I just don't know about this. An actual brush / roller spinner would be a lot safer and not a messy. Safety - if you have used oil base paint and cleaned in thinner make sure you have on some safety glasses. And hang on to your drill. If your off a little on center - going to be a ride.
Is the cost of a spinner (made for spinning) worth the damage to a good brush by installing a screw in the brush? The hole in the brush now allows water or cleaner into the wood handle.
I'll stick to my roller / brush spinner for cleaning out the head.
Mudjunky1 - really? Fire them?
The first question is what was in the scope of work under prep? Your comments about prep are good ones to incorporate in the drywall prep scope. If the drywall contractor or finisher bid a level three finish and one coat of primer what is the issue.
Part of this goes back to having a written scope of work for the work to be performed. If the customer does not want to pay you for the extra steps "Are you (Mudjunky1) going to provide the extra labor and materials for free?
The point - good scopes of work, knowing the right way to perform work (which means sharing best practices) and finding contractors willing to provide quality work for reasonable price.
Yes the above cost a little more.
One question Mudjunky1 - if the wall has a knock down finish or orange peel finish - then what?
In regards to Suburbanguy comments:
You bring up some very good points.
In this case, I think the idea of the article was to provide different railing ideas. I appreciate the time and effort to show different types of rails and the cost.
It should be the owner, designer, builder, etc to be responsible for what meets or does not meet code for their area. Think about the number of readers and different areas Fine Homebuilding is distributed.
Code requirements should always be at the forefront, even when there is no enforcement agency. Decks and railing have had some major building changes. Many of these changes have added additional expense to the price of decks and railings. But the changes have made for safer decks and rails.
Again thanks for the reminder. And kids will climb anything or at least try. There is no cure for stupidity or no parental supervision.
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