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Put it on the cord and leave it there.. it ties the cord when rolled and holds the plug
Drill until the drill binds and the pin turns with it or drill and use EZ outs..
Drill the strike hole in the door first to allow the hole saw to unload sawdust into while you drill the big hole.. So much easier on the drill and hole saw.. MAke sure the hole saw touches all the way around as it first touches the door so you know it's going in square and level.. cut cross cut grain with your knife and then use your chisel at a 45 to remove the wood to the depth of the cross cut.. Do it again to set the full depth of the mortice just at the cross grain cut.. Then remove the wood in between these cuts with your chisel.. ..
I found this stuff at my local home center.. Right next to the plaid paint
I own every cordless carpentry tool Hitachi makes and I can say there is only one lemon in the bunch..
I am not happy with the framing nailer.. It has more hang ups than my Paslodes and it has been relegated to the back up for the back up..
But I have fifteen 18v LION batteries, 3 chargers and about 20 tools to go with them and they have survived everything my guys and I can throw at them with flying colors.. They have fallen off roofs and ladders and bounced back every time, One of my guys ran a circular saw over a rattle gun and tore it up pretty good (Yea, I know.. WTF???)but it still runs every day.. I have worked the rattle guns so hard I had to put them in the freezer so we could hold them (really)to get the job done, drilled through anything my 1/2 inch corded drills will go through, use the recip saw for 90% of that kind of work..
This past weekend I was working on a water ski jump ramp and some numb nuts kicked a rattle gun and drill with batteries attached into the drink.. I just dried them out really quick like, recharged the batteries and went back to work.. (numb nuts, however, is still walking with a limp)
You have to realize that the circular saws are not corded and are not designed for long rips and wont push a high tooth count blade but if you stick with 24 teeth it will cut very well..
Boys, I have owned EVERY tool brand and havent found a brand that doenst have some issues with a tool or two.. I used to have a mixture of brands I sold all my 24v Bosch (had no complaints other than battery weight), 18v Makita (except collated screw gun) and 18v Dewalt (total crap)and now run cordless Hitachi exclusively..
I also have a 12 inch slider and other than the 50+lbs weight issue it is a dream to use.. I also have a lot of other corded Hitachis and no problems with any of them..
My ONLY real complaint is that the carry bags that the kits come in are too small.. They need to make one much larger with wheels..
I have a lot of experience in steep pitch roofs and I suggest you NEVER rip sheets except when necessary. Especially OSB.. I would build a rack on the side of the house to get sheets about 1 foot up over the eaves and then, after the first row is up, I would build a bed off to the side of the rack so I could pull up sheets and lay them flat.. The bed is made of 2 triangular (roof pitch) pieces of OSB about 4 feet long with 3 pieces of 2x for the rim. Nail that to the roof, brace it with a couple short kickers to the roof deck or 2 diagonal furring strips across the front .. Then I stock a few sheets taken off the rack as well as cut sheets on this bed.. Saves a hell of a lot of climbing.. Be sure to nail a toe cleat along the eave to save you if you slip while pulling sheets up and blow your saw dust off the roof deck after every cut.. Lawn blower works great..
I would tell you but my wife might be reading this..
Whats upp here.. When laying out walls on the floor we were told to save time by only marking and popping one side of the wall..Now we are seeing this out dated archaic aluminum layout story pole marking both sides of every stud.. There are much quicker ways to get this done.. Not too many ways to do it slower
Whats upp here.. When laying out walls on the floor we were told to save time by only marking and popping one side of the wall..Now we are seeing this out dated archaic aluminum layout story pole marking oth sides of every stud.. There are much quicker ways to get this done.. Not too many ways to do it slower
Hey guys one more tip to save you time and make it all that much easier.. STOP detailing common studs with a line on the edge of stud and an X showing which side of the line to place the stud.. Just draw a straight line at the center marks on your tape and that will be the center of stud.. You NEVER forget to cut the 3/4 for ply or gyp breaking and you can use the chalkline layout method I talked about above.. The only places you detail with a line and X are door and window openings and wall channels. This works like a machine.. Just hook on the end of the long wall, start pulling the tape, put your pencil under every layout mark on the tape gripping it with your thumb above and drag a radius line across both plates.. Even Ray Charles could get a stud close enough to center to make this quick and EZ when framing.. AND.. With the lines every 16 you can joist for the second floor by just sighting down the stud or line on the plate below.. I never lay out common joists if I use the chalkline layout method.. Just put the joist on top of the studs and roll on.. I am never more than 1/8 inch off and thats close enough to break floor sheeting..
I KNOW and understand what production framing is.. And I still popped 2 lines.. I guess the difference was I always had 2 guys on the layout job.. Thats all they did all day, every day.. If youre a one man band on layout YES, then one line saves a heap of time.. We also saved a lot of time by each layout man having a gear drive chalk box with the strings tied to the other guys box.. One guys box rolls out while the other guys rolls in.. We also saved a lot of time by using chalk boxes to lay out interior studs.. Multi story frames require studs to stack from top to bottom of structure.. We detailed all exterior studs had all interior plates cut, tacked together in place within the layout lines and turned up on edge (intersecting wall channels and openings were marked when the plates were in place before they are rolled up on edge).. Then pull chalk lines from exterior wall stud lay out to the corresponding stud lay out on the opposite exterior wall and pop lines all the way down the line.. The chalk lines strike on all interior walls and since all exterior studs were above joists, EVERY interior stud would fall over a joist and EVERY stud would line up like tombstones at Arlington.. And we used black iron oxide chalk for layout and red for corrections.. And if you carried less than 10 studs when shaking out walls you couldn't play in our sand box.. Yes, I do know what production framing is.. And I too was doing this before nail guns when we all used Rigid rigging axes or 32oz Vaughn's .. Set and sink, set and skin, set and sink.. All frigging day long.. Glad those days over over..
Good stuff but 2 lines is the way to go.. Sure if you are working with a tight crew who have their mud together one line is faster.. But it only takes one new guy (or even an experienced old dog like me will occasionally screw up) to nail down a wall on the wrong side of the line to make up for the time saved.. I dont use the cut off piece to help lay out.. I used to but I filed lines on the back of my speed square Now I just use my speed square for marking all wall width lines and 2 lines takes a few seconds extra for each wall.. You already have the string pulled out, why not??? Good cheap insurance.. I do like that awl tip.. Gonna get me one for my already overloaded nail bags
What was the aluminum angle used for.. I see the 3 drawer slides but I cant see the angle..
With a half pipe for a driveway I'm guessing a skate boarder lives in this house..
This is nothing compared to the damage falling trusses can do. I have seen a truss set fall into a block building and EXPLODE the building like it had a bomb go off.. Blocks were thrown over 100 feet.. Total devastation.. It really was an unbelievable site..
Its never happened to me but it did happen to a friend of mine.. He was a slack bracer until he had to do that job 2x.. He payed attention after that..
Welcome to my world.. Last week was doing a re-tile of bath floor.. Old mudded floor.. Found rotten subfloor.. removed that to find rotten joists.. While replacing those I found the hot water feed was 1/4 copper with multiple leaks.. Then found there was no vent on the drain system.. Drain was dumping into an old concrete sewer pipe under the house that someone had just hammered a hole into..
Kept going back to the owner with bad news.. Owner witnessed all issues and OKed all extra work but then didnt want to pay coz it was over 2x my original bid..
Worked for me.. I downloaded it free.. Just saved it to my desktop..
Didnt know there was any other way to do it.. BUT be sure to check after every 3 levels.. No matter how square your saw after 3 you will find your getting a little long or short.. Remeasure and then just cut tot eh short of long side of the kerf to get back to exact
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