Hello Justin, I was also impressed how you added the covered porch in such a seamless way. But I would like to expand on the topic that Woodman brought up; the concealed down spout (DS). I would go a further step. Because of the depth of the gutter and the size of the down spout the intersection between the two leaves little area for a lip, a vertical surface from the opening of the outlet to the bottom of the gutter. No "lip" no real place to counter flash the opening. In almost every case where I have built this design the spout is vertical through the bottom of the gutter. This is a red flag area to me. Although a concealed down spout is architecturally "trick" it's hard to believe that the original design of this 1930s error house ever have included a concealed DS in a finished column. My Uncle whom I apprenticed for in the late 50s was a master carpenter and builder from this earlier pre war decade. He bridled at the idea of installing pipes in walls. Since he built in San Francisco the climate made his preferences easier. You've no doubt you've seen the exterior run waste lines of many of the older building from that time. Often these were intentional an not just the result of a plumbing upgrade to a 19th century structure, most of which burned in the "fire". If he were building your project he would have balked at installing a flimsy aluminum down spout in a column. Stressing that it would have to be completely demolished to get access "when it would need maintenance or repair in 30 or 50 years". His gutter would have been constructed of copper with sweat fitting emptying into a heavy gauge copper or cast iron downspout fixed to the exterior wall. Given today's cost of materials this choice seems prohibitive. But it if there was no other option than to conceal the system, heavy gauge copper must be considered the minimum material spec and method. Painting the exposed DS according to the house scheme would let it blend into the background. A quick check of the DS discharge rate on a rainy day is a good maintenance minder of the condition of the DS and gutter system.
Although I though your addition was excellent in every way Uncle Neal never would build in this kind of "hidden problem". Some times practicality has to be allowed to over rule esthetics.
Regardless I can still hear his mischievous refrain at the end of the day. "Ok lads, we had a lot of fun today but didn't get much done so tomorrow we'll make up for it,,, now lets wash up n head over to Sully's for a pint".
Good Video although it seems that GRK was the deciding influence in the decision for which fasteners to use. We never use structural screws where we can use nails simply due to the cost and speed. You could have added that a couple well placed clamps will suck the two pieces together. It's great that you can find sponsors to fund these little videos. But to tilt the process to promote one product or method over another doesn't seem quite on the up and up. Or maybe you should include a disclaimer the next time that in fact the video is actually a commercial for a favored product.
Structural Framing Contractor.
Having been a member of the Carpenter Union on the east coast then moving to California in the early 70's I witnessed first hand the attempts and quite frankly the fantastic sucess of the "home-builders" associations at destroying the best source of trained tradesmen it had by importing low-skilled low wage workers from primarily Mexico and South America all through the 80s and 90s. At first the bargaining agreements decoupled residential building from commercial, creating a two tier wage system. The lower of the two was residential. Now that residential carpenters were being paid less than commercial carpenters where do you think the union membership shifted. As the available local labor shifted to higher paying commercial work hiring halls couldn't supply skilled workers to residential job sites and contractors lobbied their associations and politicians to turn a blind eye to illegal immigration to fill demand at the lower wage. Its not so difficult to train a willing young Latino worker if all he has to do is learn how to install sub floor or he becomes a "sheeting nailer" or just rolls truss week after month. No thought was ever given with what to do with all these people once the boom ended. So the race to the bottom began and now we are left with the results. I don't blame the kids coming over the boarder they were escaping a life of poverty that most Americans have little understanding. The fact is because they were coming to an industry that being systematically de-unionized and they had lost the best chance for representation and bargaining power. By the way the Union work force that is left is mainly concentrated in Commercial work where a Carpenter wages still allow a member to afford the housed that he no longer builds.
Ok nothing incorrect with the basic information but like the the man said "where's the beef". It must be that my expectations are out of line but I didn't find a lot more information on specing, pouring, and finishing here than I would by just reading the back of a bag of concrete at the local "depot". If you only spent a little more time explaining the C/A/H2O ratio rather than on the jargon the article could have been helpful, for the new-be at least. The article was terrific, if it's intent was to provide the reader with just enough new vocabulary the next time "he's" ordering "the whole 9 yards of a creamy 6 sack pea gravel mix" out of the local batch plant to finish the stepping stones he has on his weekend honey do list?
And just so readers don't get the wrong impression, the term "placed" is used by many pros not impart status but to remind themselves and the guys working for them that concrete must not be allowed to drop more than 4' from the edge of the hose or chute to eliminate "aggregate separation" which weakens the final product.
Hi Matt thanks for the tips on revolving those knobs and how you overcame the issue with the geometry "falling" out.
I'm coming over to Sketch up from Auto CAD so the question I have is about another technique you use. It's probably second nature to you but I could determine what command u use to initiate it.
There are a number of times during the process when you are selecting the door/draw face and the background case work is greyed out. I am guessing you do this to make it easier to find a reference point or line to select.
What is the command line or sequences of commands you use to isolate yet keep active and rendered with texture/color the group you're editing (the door drawer in this case) while turning off the texture/color or "greying out" the background groups (groups=objects in ACad speak)
I think that Ricky and Edwardo deserve cudos for a fine installation. I learned the trade in the late 50s and 60s and basically all of the techniques of counter flashing that they use are similar to the best practices I learned. The difference is or course the material technology, ie; Tyvek substitutes for 32" courses of 15 or 30# felt. Although Matt talked about sill pans made out of sheet metal they were often constructed of the same felts used to flash the jambs. It takes a little knowledge of folding paper but a seamless two way corner can be achieved. I don't know how long felt will actually last but I can attest to seeing intact felt in houses built in the early 20 and 30s, that I have remodeled. So we can stop water with transnational materials and good craftsman ship but it certainly takes a longer than 10 minutes to install a window using traditional materials. Over the course of time I have determined it's prudent not to mix old and modern material technologies. So if you happen to find yourself putting in a couple of windows or doors and the "papers" are traditional felts stick with them, use the same counter-flashing techniques, and get a book on Origami. It's actually very satisfying to fold a seamless two way corner, just don't plan on accomplishing a window installation in 10 minutes.
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