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As to your first feature about girder pockets why not use these https://www.strongtie.com/search/?q=GH ? they're perfect, require no extra work and if your bean size isn't listed Simpson will make customs. As to your "I'm not building a piano" or similar comment, I disagree. If you try to build it perfect, it won't be but it will likely be good enough. If you try to build it "good enough" it also won't be.
@Detail_Devil Decks 30" above grade require a permit. Don't know where you build but here in California wet setting is not allowed. If the inspector comes on site to look at your forms and the anchor bolts are not already hanging in place, you fail your inspection. For good reason too. Back in the late '70's we were pouring a complicated stepped footing for a hillside home in Atascadero. As we were cleaning up someone else noticed that there were no anchor bolts in one step. They ended up being set with a hammer. Wasn't a contractor then. It was not my job so I could complain but that was it.
Sort of agree with Renosteinke above but not completely.
First another reason not to paint from the original can is the sealing ring gets full of paint and makes proper replacement of the lid impossible.
I don't use a plastic pail. I use a metal one but still a dedicated pail not a cut bucket.
Proper way to load a brush is to dip 1/4"-1/2" in paint then slap the brush on the side of the pail to knock off any excess paint which would drip off the brush. Don't wipe the brush.
When finished painting, pour paint from pail into original paint can then take your brush and collect any remaining excess paint in the pail then pour that also into the can or transfer it with the brush.
You clean the pail with the brush. Especially with oil paint first wipe any excess paint from the brush with newspaper. Then put 1-2" of the appropriate solvent in the pail and use the brush to remove the paint. When you've cleaned the whole pail, spin the brush with the handle between your palms and the brush down in the pail to get rid of excess solvent. Repeat with clean solvent until the solvent remains clear after the last cleaning. Latex solvent (water) disposal is easy but paint thinner is another issue. You need 4-5 empty thinner gallon cans. Mark each can for cleanliness. First cleaning gets disposed of and the second is saved for future first cleaning etc. Takes about a gallon of thinner to clean a brush.
I'm a general contractor but all of the above came from an old time union painter.
Only read the text. Did not watch the video as Adobe Flash Player messes up google chrome so I disabled it. The following is from an old time commercial painter that I met at a job years ago: First always paint from a pail rather than the can. Pour a few inches of paint into the pail and close the can. When finished pour remaining paint back into can and close can. Rub excess paint from pail and brush with newspapers or rags. With an inch or so of whatever is solvent for the paint(water or thinner)begin to clean the pail with the brush. Clean all over including any spills on the outside. Hold the brush head down in the pail with the handle between your palms and rub your hands back and forth to spin the brush and force the cleaner out of the bristles. Repeat with new solvent until the last cleaning leaves the solvent clear(or nearly so). Along the way use a wire brush on the bristles if necessary. Leaves you with a clean brush and a clean pail. Dry brush with newspaper or rags. If using thinner, it takes about a gallon of thinner to clean a brush. To conserve thinner, discard the first cleaning thinner then save second cleaning in marked can for the first cleaning next time and save the third for the second in another marked can etc. I have brushes that are decades old using this method.
One thing that I forgot is that the small window is tolerable because there is a 48" x 48" curb mount skylight in the roof. I salvaged it from a job where I was doing something nicer but plastic bubble skylights are dirt cheap and provide nice light.
Also built my own shed and since I was going to be looking at it I wanted it to look nice. I also wanted to avoid the building department. Up to 120 sq. ft. outbuilding is not considered a structure and does not require a permit. I built mine 10' x 12'. Non structure can also be only one story so I built mine with a 4 in 12 pitch shed roof. Loft style shelving on the high end stores all of my boxed power tools, four sets of extra wheels for my car hobby and still does not interfere with head room. Since the roof slopes toward our house and we see it from our deck, I splurged on double thickness Presidential Shake shingles. Our lot is not dead flat so I built it on piers, posts, beams and joists like a deck. Later built a redwood deck directly outside, at floor level, so I have extra outside shop space when the weather is nice. Completely wired the inside but to avoid permit requirements I plug the building into an outdoor receptacle using a 10 gage outdoor extension cord. Plumbed air outlets on all walls with sched. 40 PVC. Have a nice metal pre hung raised panel door from Home Depot for an entry. Dead bolt keyed to my house key. Only has one small 24" x 24" window because I didn't want to sacrifice the wall space. Building is sheathed with 1/2" OSB for shear and as a backer for 7-1/4" smooth Hardie Plank. 12 foot long dimension means no joints in the runs of Hardie siding. Wish it was bigger but I have the space maybe I'll build another.
Although I've been a California licensed contractor since 1982 I need to admit that I've probabily never mastered the organizational skills that you speak about(even withj a Cal Poly Business degree). My jobs always seem to take a little longer that I envision But I seem to get recommended and hired because of the work that I do. I tend to love being a "jack of all trades". In my current job I drew the plans, framed, plumbed, wired, insulated, vented through the roof, modified cabinets and made the finish trim. I hired framing helper, drywall, stone counters and paint. I'm 69 and have had a long enjoyable career being as involved in as many of the trades as possible on my projects.
Been doing the same thing for 25-30 years since my neighbor, who worked in a cabinet shop, gave me my first one. We use plywood, riped to width and cut just short of the length of a flatened belt. Then you us a rasp to radius the block to allow a tight fit.
I suppose that the method shown for checking a level is pretty much the only option to use in a store but there is a better way to check at home/job. For the level vial, shim one end untill it reads exactly level then flip it end for end. It's much easier to look for exact center than to try to remember how off center it was. For pumb, adjust two drywall screws separated by sightly less than the level length so that the level reads plumb when held against the screws. Flip to check/adjust.
I'm going to be redundant. I posed something similar on "there's a beter way".
Don't apply caulk the way that they show. Instead of leaving behind a tail of caulk that needs to be tooled with your finger(messy and wastefull of caulk) point the tip of the caulking tube toward the uncaulked part of the joint. With practice, you can maintain a small bubble of caulk in front of the tip. This lets you know that you have filled the joint. The bubble is excess caulk over what is needed to fill the joint. The tip travels over the just applied caulk and tools it. You don't need wipe away gobs of caulk. Just wipe it with a wet finger or rag and you're finished
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