Well to start with I'll be 72 next month and I'm currently working the most physically challenging project that I've done in many years especially since it involves constant ladder work and I'm getting a hip replacement in November. It's also the least rewarding project other than pride in being able to overcome obstacles. One big plus is it is my only commercial project and I may make $75K in four months. So you've got to remain open. You've also got to recognize what part of the work you really aren't good at or don't like doing and partner with some good sub-contractors. That will leave more of your time for doing what you really like and your markups(even my modest 25%) adds to your bottom line. The other thing that helps avoid the whole "three bid" hassle is to become useful to other professionals in the industry. A single architect and a couple of engineers have provided more than half of my jobs over the last 20 years or so. Remember that you are a huge asset to them also as their clients expect them to provide people who can execute their designs. Most of my projects with Larry my architect were "negotiated contracts". I was hired before the plans were complete and supplied input as to design and price. The understanding was that if the project was built, I was the contractor. If they couldn't afford it or for some other reason decided not to go forward, I was compensated at an agreed hourly rate for my time. Never got paid for my time. Always did the job. Good luck with your second career.
@ user-6314355 What you describe is sort of "new" old school. Have seen framers work that way but I don't like building walls on ladders. The way I learned, back in the '70's, was to nail down your bottom plate with 8 sinkers along the chalk lines as you describe then add the top plate with more 8 sinkers and detail as you describe. After you've plated the entire house or story, if multiple story, you mark the plate packages for identification, pull them up as packages and stack them out of the way. Starting with the longest wall you build it on the deck and stand it up bracing it only at the ends so the braces don't get in the way of building subsequent walls. Your method might be more appropriate if building on a slab which I pretty much never do. The other thing that shapes my practices is that I'm pretty much never framing multiple structures at the same time. When I order plate stock, I insist that it be straight even if I have to pay for #1. That's much cheaper in the long run than dealing with twisty construction grade plate stock.
Got to thinking and went back and looked again. Don't even know what that sheathing is for. It sure isn't structural. There should be a row of blocking between the studs that the joints fall on. Once again better to use 3 by or 4 by blocks. Sheathing has NO STRUCTURAL VALUE unless it's nailed on all four edges. To be most useful, it should also have edge nailing at other significant framing members like the bottom wall plate.
Don't get some of these comments. The overhang at the bottom of the wall is to tie the sheathed wall to the rim joist below. Sheathing on lower wall should also catch the rim. Now you have one structure rather than several stacked on top of each other. Never heard of adhesive on wall sheathing and I've done lots of structural engineered wall sheathing. Floor adhesive is to stop squeaks not for strength. The strength of the sheathing is in how many and what guage nails you use. Don't know what jurisdiction would require vertical sheathing. It is inherently weaker with your joints all on one stud. By staggering the joints you lessen the chance of failure. If I'm doing a job where vertical sheathing will really help me in some other way, I lay out my joints in the wall framing and use 3 by or 4 by studs at the joints lessening the chance of all of those nails(lots of shear panels are nailed 2, 3 or 4 inches OC on the edges) splitting the stud.
As to your first feature about girder pockets why not use these https://www.strongtie.com/search/?q=GH ? they're perfect, require no extra work and if your bean size isn't listed Simpson will make customs. As to your "I'm not building a piano" or similar comment, I disagree. If you try to build it perfect, it won't be but it will likely be good enough. If you try to build it "good enough" it also won't be.
@Detail_Devil Decks 30" above grade require a permit. Don't know where you build but here in California wet setting is not allowed. If the inspector comes on site to look at your forms and the anchor bolts are not already hanging in place, you fail your inspection. For good reason too. Back in the late '70's we were pouring a complicated stepped footing for a hillside home in Atascadero. As we were cleaning up someone else noticed that there were no anchor bolts in one step. They ended up being set with a hammer. Wasn't a contractor then. It was not my job so I could complain but that was it.
Sort of agree with Renosteinke above but not completely.
First another reason not to paint from the original can is the sealing ring gets full of paint and makes proper replacement of the lid impossible.
I don't use a plastic pail. I use a metal one but still a dedicated pail not a cut bucket.
Proper way to load a brush is to dip 1/4"-1/2" in paint then slap the brush on the side of the pail to knock off any excess paint which would drip off the brush. Don't wipe the brush.
When finished painting, pour paint from pail into original paint can then take your brush and collect any remaining excess paint in the pail then pour that also into the can or transfer it with the brush.
You clean the pail with the brush. Especially with oil paint first wipe any excess paint from the brush with newspaper. Then put 1-2" of the appropriate solvent in the pail and use the brush to remove the paint. When you've cleaned the whole pail, spin the brush with the handle between your palms and the brush down in the pail to get rid of excess solvent. Repeat with clean solvent until the solvent remains clear after the last cleaning. Latex solvent (water) disposal is easy but paint thinner is another issue. You need 4-5 empty thinner gallon cans. Mark each can for cleanliness. First cleaning gets disposed of and the second is saved for future first cleaning etc. Takes about a gallon of thinner to clean a brush.
I'm a general contractor but all of the above came from an old time union painter.
Only read the text. Did not watch the video as Adobe Flash Player messes up google chrome so I disabled it. The following is from an old time commercial painter that I met at a job years ago: First always paint from a pail rather than the can. Pour a few inches of paint into the pail and close the can. When finished pour remaining paint back into can and close can. Rub excess paint from pail and brush with newspapers or rags. With an inch or so of whatever is solvent for the paint(water or thinner)begin to clean the pail with the brush. Clean all over including any spills on the outside. Hold the brush head down in the pail with the handle between your palms and rub your hands back and forth to spin the brush and force the cleaner out of the bristles. Repeat with new solvent until the last cleaning leaves the solvent clear(or nearly so). Along the way use a wire brush on the bristles if necessary. Leaves you with a clean brush and a clean pail. Dry brush with newspaper or rags. If using thinner, it takes about a gallon of thinner to clean a brush. To conserve thinner, discard the first cleaning thinner then save second cleaning in marked can for the first cleaning next time and save the third for the second in another marked can etc. I have brushes that are decades old using this method.
One thing that I forgot is that the small window is tolerable because there is a 48" x 48" curb mount skylight in the roof. I salvaged it from a job where I was doing something nicer but plastic bubble skylights are dirt cheap and provide nice light.
Also built my own shed and since I was going to be looking at it I wanted it to look nice. I also wanted to avoid the building department. Up to 120 sq. ft. outbuilding is not considered a structure and does not require a permit. I built mine 10' x 12'. Non structure can also be only one story so I built mine with a 4 in 12 pitch shed roof. Loft style shelving on the high end stores all of my boxed power tools, four sets of extra wheels for my car hobby and still does not interfere with head room. Since the roof slopes toward our house and we see it from our deck, I splurged on double thickness Presidential Shake shingles. Our lot is not dead flat so I built it on piers, posts, beams and joists like a deck. Later built a redwood deck directly outside, at floor level, so I have extra outside shop space when the weather is nice. Completely wired the inside but to avoid permit requirements I plug the building into an outdoor receptacle using a 10 gage outdoor extension cord. Plumbed air outlets on all walls with sched. 40 PVC. Have a nice metal pre hung raised panel door from Home Depot for an entry. Dead bolt keyed to my house key. Only has one small 24" x 24" window because I didn't want to sacrifice the wall space. Building is sheathed with 1/2" OSB for shear and as a backer for 7-1/4" smooth Hardie Plank. 12 foot long dimension means no joints in the runs of Hardie siding. Wish it was bigger but I have the space maybe I'll build another.
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