swdstmkr73

a strong bungee cord works too.

I've used at 20oz curved claw Estwing for the past 10 years with good results. It's a good all-around hammer that I can use for both framing and finish work. The titanium sounds terrific, but I think I'd have to take out special insurance on it if it ever needed replacing. I'd feel a lot more comfortable, though not happy, about replacing a $35 hammer vs. $200. I hope I win one since there's not much chance I'd be able to afford one. Good luck to all.

Or even some chrome drain pipes would be nicer than the plastic.

Sorry, but I'm kind of on the same page as MFournier. Maybe not to the extreme of using a hammer and nail to drive my point home, but I would like something a bit more advanced as well. BTW, did you notice how far from the joint the screws were driven into the drywall? They won't be covered with tape. Not a big deal, I guess.

I can kind of agree with the moisture barrier issue, but it doesn't look like there was any insulation in the wall to begin with in this case. I fasten cabinets to the studs, but I'm interested in the French cleat idea, esp. on a standard cabinet. How do you all who use it make it work on a cabinet that has 1/4" or so between the back panel and the rear of the cabinet?