I like it.
I would do some things different but the article is pretty good.
Once you've set the newels to the proper height, a better way to get the proper cut on the handrail is to use a square placed on a straight edge laying down the nosings of the treads and measure perpendicular to the top or bottom of the rail. Once you have the same measurement at the top and the bottom of the rail, you are golden Not too good with words, I hope you understand what i'm saying
Mike did a pretty good job. good article
Just one point, the spacing has to be such that a 4-3/8 inch sphere cannot pass between the the balusters on a rake rail. For a guard or level rail, a 4 inch sphere cannot pass between them.
So they can't be 4-3/8 inches apart or 4 inches apart, they must be slightly less.
It is against code to have a seating area along the walking surface
incorporated into the guard rail.
When I first started my stair company, one of our customers put a couch right next to the guard rail . They had a child with Down's Syndrome. Yes the unthinkable did happen. It makes me cringe every time I see a designer or architect place a couch up next to a guard rail. If you MUST do it, the code says the guard has to be a minimum 36 inches above the seating elevation. I know it looks cool, but just don't do it.
We've been doing the bottom rail like this since the mid 1980's.
No end grain sitting in a shoe to gather moisture.
PVC boards with the lock miter bit will work great but when using treated lumber, make sure you have enough clearance to allow for expansion and contraction because of moisture content.. If you want to use a lock miter joint with wood, be cautious of the moisture content difference between treated lumber and your finished lumber wrap.
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