How are the back corners of the dam sealed? Is the flashing a reverse lap or does the WRB go over the flashing? Is the flashing nailed or is some adhesive used? Flashing detail errors are an excellent source of revenue for moisture rot specialists.
At least they left some of the moisture rot damage so it would infect the unprotected raw wood more quickly. It's critical in lowest bid situations to leave lots of work for the next guy to correct. If building envelopes, cladding and framing was done correctly we wouldn't have as much to do.
I'm still a little uncertain about which wrap is most compatible with the moisture level changes in the structure and surfactants, molds and spores in the sheeting. It would be nice to see a comprehensive review of the difference between rainscreens and barrier envelopes. How are the seals, drains and vents different with the two methods? How can prolonged moisture saturation caused by glass or other surface drainage be managed to prevent moisture rot damage?
I now own one. If you use a table saw for any reason I strongly urge you to consider a saw stop.
I have found two problems with mine so far. One is the sheet goods/laminate fence should always automatically pop out unless you override it and the other is the teeth on the anti kick back guard get stuck when I fumble with the zero clearance insert.
Be sure to carefully bring the blade up through it the first time you turn the saw on. I also wish the fence was tighter.
Save your money and get this saw before you have a bad day. Be extra careful if you don't own one yet.
This is a wonderful start to solving moisture rot damage cause by water intrusion beyond the exterior cladding. Getting the proper seals, drains and vents in the building envelope is crucial to eliminating the conditions conducive to moisture rot damage to the sheeting and framing.
The next step is a guide for designing and constructing the architectureal details in the exterior cladding. There are numerous circumstances in trim and joinery details in the siding on a home. Addressing the properties of the various materials - wood, composites, doors, windows, flashing details and so on is crucial to prevent conditions conducive to moisture rot damage.
Preventing moisture intrusion, moisture saturation and evaporation/condensation cycling in the exterior shell eliminates conditions conducive to moisture rot fungal growth.
End grain, horizontal details, gaps, drains, seals and vents all need careful consideration when designing and building exterior details on structures
I took some time to drive through Redmond Ridge and I could easily spot the pattern of construction that creates the conditions conducive to moisture rot damage. The exterior shell takes the brunt of the weather and especially conditions that create moisture saturation and drainage problems. If the building envelope fails to protect against condensation/evaporation cycling and drainage caused by cladding failures the sheeting and framing will also suffer the consequences of moisture rot damage.
The design of many of the architectureal details on these homes creates the conditions that will consistently cause wood products to be subjected to moisture satiation. This satuation occurs in relatively predictable situations when a home is constructed with the methods and details found in most production built homes.
When the building envelope is either too sparse and applied incorectly moisture intrusion occurs. When the envelope is too robust the problem moves to condensation and evaporation caused by solar and heat cycling working with the various states of water in the assembly - trying to get in and trying to escape.
The problems these homes have are strikingly similar to the ones I have been repairing for a number of years. Unfortunately these defects are systemic in the construction industry. If you own a home in the Pacific Northwest built with Aspen based OSB, a weather barrier, trim, and especially any composite cladding with vinyl windows and it faces south - you have a problem. If by chance it has well thought out seals, vents and drains and a notable gap between the layers and allowances for water intrusion, permeability and surfactants you may fair significantly better.
From the building science industry to the manufacturers and vendors and ultimately the installers the chain of education on theory and method for eliminating moisture rot fungal growth needs a great deal more attention.
I have been repairing this damage for some time now and would like to learn all I can on prevention, early detection and remediation.
Much of the time and effort put into making a home air and heat tight may be misguided because the exterior shells of a home need to be moisture, heat and pressure adaptable. The forces of the three states of water - a liquid, a solid and a gas are naturally destructive to any barrier system. Sunlight, precipitation, humidity, air flow and pressure all act on any shell. The system must adapt to the changes in moisture, humidity pressure, and temperature.
The second factor in addition to weather forces is biological. Mold, fungus and insects will also exploit conducive conditions in any wall assembly. Many construction materials are wood composites produced from other than old growth vertical grain heartwood. Fungus and mold spores, their colonies as well as pollen, insect frass and nests will all compromise a wall assembly.
Manufacturers of construction products are primarily concerned with sales volume and market position and building scientists don't have a lot of bloody hands experience repairing moisture rot. The concept of building resistant and adaptive systems effectively rarely passes through the design, the manufacturer distribution system, installation, code - inspection steps.
How might all the homes built with OSB, a WRB, vinyl windows, wood trim and a non old growth vertical grain siding product be retrofit in an effective and economical retrofit? Are the new shell systems going to work? Can existing homes be retrofit when they fail?
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