xxPaulCPxx

All the Bark or pith side up is rather beside the point when walking around with your workboots on.

Ask your self this: "If I was barefoot and running around the deck, which side would I want coming up toward my bare feet - the reinforced center section of a pith center, or the pointy but weak outer sections of the bark side?"

A pith center cupping up will require stitches, a bark edge would only require tweezers.

Here is a tip - to keep the Gel usable indefinitly, keep it in the fridge. I have a years old bottle that still works fine every time I pull it out of the fridge in the garage.

On a second note, regarding FastCap as a company... I have nothing but good experience.

This is my second shout out to them - the first involved a no hassel replacement of a broken tape measure.

This time, I had ordered some magnets for their Powerhead screw system. It took some time for them to ship after I ordered them, and after another month I still hadn't received them. You can tell, I wasn't in a real hurry for them... until then.

I sent in a message over Easter weekend saying I hadn't yet received them. That morning I got an Email back, from Kenzie at FastCap, saying she was going to send another shipment right away, and asked if there was something else i might want to try?

I asked if she could send along a few of the small paowerhead screws... I was thinking she would send a handful... Wedsday comes and so does the magnets, as well as a pack of 200 of those screws!

Once again, FastCap goes out of its way to take care of a problem, and make sure it's customer is satisfied. I even got another email from her today making sure i had received the package.

FastCap is a very good company to do business with!

Test that offset blade holder! I HATE IT, but I would love to know if I'm the only one. I'd love to see it compared to just using a long blade.

I would also enjoy seeing the boars blade against window cutouts in OSB

renosteinke - the reason they may not be allowed anymore is that square edged staples can tear the layer being fastened around the square edges of the staple. It doesn't happen when the staple is applied, it happens when the material rustles in the wind or as you stretch the material tight.

I just bought this for a small project that had lots of small odd shaped pieces of drywall. I loved using it, but came upon three big limitations.

1. It's only good for 1/2" drywall and larger... the legs don't reset properly on 3/8" drywall (no, those didn't go on a wall)

2. Since it scores the front and back faces of the drywall, it's not good for sound dampening drywall that has another paper/glue/paper face in the middle. This won't snap like regular drywall.

3. The front and rear curve-outs are different widths, so if you try to run it parallel to a T-square or a straightedge, it will turn away from the line. Also, the widths are odd numbers (a little under 2 7/16" in the front, about 2 1/8 in the back) instead of an easier to work with 1.5" or 1" offset.

The perfect accessory for this would be a roller rip shoe so you could set and cut a 2" piece (for example) down the length of the drywall without needing a line or other tool.

It does what it does well, but I can't wait for the version 2 of this tool.

I got a Stiletto for my Mother in law for her work with Habitat... I wanted to prevent any injuries for this now retired woman. I warned her that her hammer would be coveted by the pros leading the team - and I was right! She loves the hammer.

Me, I do a lot of different stuff but I never got good enough with the swing of a hammer. While I CAN sink a 16d in two whacks (I only bend or bounce 25% of the nails!)... I can only do a very few... but my impact driver can drive a #10 screw over and over again.

I really wish someone would make up a battery adapter system. Be able to use one tool of a different set with your own, with just a slight accomodation, maybe a cord going to your belt battery holder.

It's not like the electricity is different from one 18v tool to another!

I tend to think of a drill being a precision instrument.

Hex shank bits, by their very nature tend to sit loose in the chuck of an impact driver (if they didn't, they would be impossible to remove).

Do you run into any problems with fine detail work using the looser drill bits in you impact drivers?