tag: doors


showing 61 - 80 of 133 posts
First  < Previous 2 3 4 5 6 Next >  Last
Sort By:



Subscribe to RSS feed
Door-trimming jig

Door-trimming jig

The hinge side of a door must be trimmed to width at 90°. The latch side is usually trimmed at 5° off vertical for a beveled edge. Making these long cuts straight and smooth is easy with this...

view details view details
Sill seal

Sill seal

2 comments

I came up with a solution for weatherstripping a door bottom where a thick rug prevents a spring-loaded bottom sweep from retracting. I used a length of vinyl bulb weatherstripping, intended for a...

view details view details
Easy door buck

Easy door buck

Building a door buck (FHB #8, p.35) is a good idea if you find yourself dealing with a house full of door hanging from scratch, but for a quick setup, the answer is right in your toolbox. I use two...

view details view details
Frictionless hinge

Frictionless hinge

1 comment

For me, the most .frustrating part of making and installing a heavy, handmade entry door has been finding the right hinges. Even with a good set of heavy butts, the hinge barrels begin to grind down...

view details view details
Hinge-mortising jig

Hinge-mortising jig

2 comments

I use a router and a jig to mortise hinges in doors and casement windows. By using a 1/2-in. diameter hinge-mortising bit and a standard round-cornered hinge, I achieve a consistently clean fit that...

view details view details
Radiused window casings

Radiused window casings

Recently, while building a half-circle window, I needed a way to make the casing and interior stops. Instead of transferring the curves from templates onto the stock and then joining these pieces, I...

view details view details
Offset jig

Offset jig

1 comment

Whenever I install door or window casings, I use the jig shown here to make sure that I get an accurate 1/4-in. reveal. It's made of two square pieces of hardwood, 1/4 in. thick, that are glued...

view details view details
Installing a new threshold

Installing a new threshold

It's important for a door to fit snugly against its new vinyl-gasket threshold, particularly if the system you're using doesn't include a door-bottom sweep. But fitting an old door with one means...

view details view details
Holding a level plumb

Holding a level plumb

1 comment

I use a 6-1/2-ft. spirit level to plumb and straighten interior door jambs. In order to leave both hands free to handle the shims and to drive nails, I wedge the level against one of the jambs to...

view details view details
Plumb-bob anchor

Plumb-bob anchor

1 comment

Whenever I'm hanging a door with wood jambs, I use a chisel or utility knife to lift a small sliver in the center of the head jamb. Then I use it to anchor the string on my plumb line, as shown...

view details view details
Drilling foam-core steel doors

Drilling foam-core steel doors

I had to drill holes for deadbolt locks in some steel doors that had foam cores, and I almost destroyed the first couple of doors using a standard hole saw because the 1/4-in. pilot bit would wander...

view details view details
Locating latches

Locating latches

1 comment

Here's a fast, accurate method that I use for locating the centerpoints for door latch and dead-bolt mortises. First I center a hole for a 6d nail in the end of a short piece of dowel (a 1-in. dia...

view details view details
Better backing for doors

Better backing for doors

1 comment

If you think about how most doors are mounted to most jambs and visualize the relationship of hinge-to-door and hinge-to-jamb, you may see some room for improvement. Standard butt hinges, heavyduty...

view details view details
Chiseling hinge mortises

Chiseling hinge mortises

I typically use a router and a template to cut mortises or to enlarge existing mortises for new door hinges. But for small jobs where it doesn't make sense to cart along a lot of gear, I use a...

view details view details
Solo window installation

Solo window installation

I was recently faced with installing windows in a new house, all by myself. Here's how I did it, First I cut a couple of 2x4s about 8 in. longer than my widest window. Then I measured the distance...

view details view details
Installing tall doors

Installing tall doors

Faced with installing some 60, 3-ft. by 8-ft. prehung doors, I developed the jamb-setting fixture shown in the drawing. Not only did the fixture keep the hinge jamb and the head jamb at 90°, but...

view details view details
Putting a new window in an old brownstone

Putting a new window in an old brownstone

1 comment

In Brooklyn, where turn-of-the-century brownstones and bricks are the norm, window replacement often calls for some ingenuity. I have used both Bonneville and Andersen brick-to-brick replacement...

view details view details
Hanging solid-core doors

Hanging solid-core doors

When I have to muscle a solid-core door into or out of its hinges, I let a drywall lifter (a tool designed for placing drywall on walls) do the heavy lifting. Unlike a flat bar, a drywall lifter...

view details view details
Quick, accurate shims

Quick, accurate shims

Obtaining the right-size shims for a job can be quick, easy, and precise if you put in about 10 minutes’ preparation. Begin with the shim stock. A proper shim has grain running its entire...

view details view details
Shim gauge

Shim gauge

1 comment

In home building, square, level, and plumb are admirable goals, but we sometimes fall a little short of the ideal. As a consequence, we turn to shims. They are vital for adjusting the fit of prehung...

view details view details

showing 61 - 80 of 133 posts
First  < Previous 2 3 4 5 6 Next >  Last