tag: doors

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Remodel of the Week - Week #4

MarvinRemodel, Advertiser | May 20th, 2013

A transitional kitchen in a 100 year old home - Showcased in Marvin's Remodelers Gallery

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Remodel of the Week - Week #3

MarvinRemodel, Advertiser | May 13th, 2013

A transformation of a classic shingle style home - Showcased in Marvin's Remodelers Gallery

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Remodel of the Week - Week #2

MarvinRemodel, Advertiser | May 6th, 2013

Opening up a Lakeside home to bring in the natural light and scenery - Showcased in Marvin's Remodelers Gallery

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Remodel of the Week - Week #1

MarvinRemodel, Advertiser | April 29th, 20131 comment

Late 19th century schoolhouse remodeled as a residence - Showcased in Marvin's Remodelers Gallery

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Energy-Efficient San Francisco Remodel

TeresaPeterson, member | January 25th, 20131 comment

The Kumar Residence, nestled in the hills of Belmont, CA is an 1100 square foot addition and remodel of an existing 1950′s mid-century modern ranch house that needed updating, and more living...

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Project House Weekly Wrap, Episode 8: Sweating the Details - Windows, Doors, and Insulation

FHBdotcom, editor | March 30th, 20123 comments

Editors Justin Fink and Dan Morrison review a smorgasbord of details at the Fine Homebuilding project house shop, including a mock up of how not to install fiberglass insulation, and the...

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Simple Steps for Window- and Door-Framing Layout

FHBdotcom, editor | July 8th, 20111 comment

Learn a few measuring shortcuts that make accurate rough-opening layouts a snap

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Door-trimming jig

FHBdotcom, editor | January 31st, 2011

The hinge side of a door must be trimmed to width at 90°. The latch side is usually trimmed at 5° off vertical for a beveled edge. Making these long cuts straight and smooth is easy with this...

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Sill seal

FHBdotcom, editor | January 31st, 20112 comments

I came up with a solution for weatherstripping a door bottom where a thick rug prevents a spring-loaded bottom sweep from retracting. I used a length of vinyl bulb weatherstripping, intended for a...

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Building a door buck (FHB #8, p.35) is a good idea if you find yourself dealing with a house full of door hanging from scratch, but for a quick setup, the answer is right in your toolbox. I use two...

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Frictionless hinge

FHBdotcom, editor | January 31st, 20111 comment

For me, the most .frustrating part of making and installing a heavy, handmade entry door has been finding the right hinges. Even with a good set of heavy butts, the hinge barrels begin to grind down...

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Hinge-mortising jig

FHBdotcom, editor | January 31st, 20112 comments

I use a router and a jig to mortise hinges in doors and casement windows. By using a 1/2-in. diameter hinge-mortising bit and a standard round-cornered hinge, I achieve a consistently clean fit that...

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Radiused window casings

FHBdotcom, editor | January 31st, 2011

Recently, while building a half-circle window, I needed a way to make the casing and interior stops. Instead of transferring the curves from templates onto the stock and then joining these pieces, I...

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Offset jig

FHBdotcom, editor | January 31st, 20111 comment

Whenever I install door or window casings, I use the jig shown here to make sure that I get an accurate 1/4-in. reveal. It's made of two square pieces of hardwood, 1/4 in. thick, that are glued...

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Installing a new threshold

FHBdotcom, editor | January 31st, 2011

It's important for a door to fit snugly against its new vinyl-gasket threshold, particularly if the system you're using doesn't include a door-bottom sweep. But fitting an old door with one means...

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Holding a level plumb

FHBdotcom, editor | January 31st, 20111 comment

I use a 6-1/2-ft. spirit level to plumb and straighten interior door jambs. In order to leave both hands free to handle the shims and to drive nails, I wedge the level against one of the jambs to...

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Plumb-bob anchor

FHBdotcom, editor | January 31st, 20111 comment

Whenever I'm hanging a door with wood jambs, I use a chisel or utility knife to lift a small sliver in the center of the head jamb. Then I use it to anchor the string on my plumb line, as shown...

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Drilling foam-core steel doors

FHBdotcom, editor | January 31st, 2011

I had to drill holes for deadbolt locks in some steel doors that had foam cores, and I almost destroyed the first couple of doors using a standard hole saw because the 1/4-in. pilot bit would wander...

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Locating latches

FHBdotcom, editor | January 31st, 20111 comment

Here's a fast, accurate method that I use for locating the centerpoints for door latch and dead-bolt mortises. First I center a hole for a 6d nail in the end of a short piece of dowel (a 1-in. dia...

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Better backing for doors

FHBdotcom, editor | January 31st, 20111 comment

If you think about how most doors are mounted to most jambs and visualize the relationship of hinge-to-door and hinge-to-jamb, you may see some room for improvement. Standard butt hinges, heavyduty...

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