Don’t quote bad advice
Let me start by saying that I generally look forward to and enjoy each new issue of your magazine. However, I really have a problem when you print the kind of “advice” I found in “Breaktime” in your April/May issue (FHB #178, p. 38). Regarding the proper installation of asphalt-saturated felt paper (a k a tar paper), I would like to quote the International Code Council and the New York State Building Code, section R905 Requirements for Roof Coverings, subsection R905.2 Asphalt Shingles, subsection R905.2.7 Underlayment Application:
“For roof slopes of four units vertical in 12 units horizontal or greater, underlayment shall be one layer applied in the following manner. Underlayment shall be applied shingle fashion, parallel to and starting from the eave and lapped 2 inches, fastened sufficiently to hold in place. End laps shall be offset by 6 feet.”
I have been around roofs and roofing for nearly 50 years, and I can never remember a legitimate publication that ever indicated that installing underlayment perpendicular to the ridge was ever an acceptable practice. I am truly dismayed that you would print advice from nonauthoritative sources that is contrary to standard practice and to the building code. I recommend that from now on, you quote reputable sources like the building code or the American Institute of Architects and leave the misinformation from sources of unknown repute on the Internet.
—Ed Languish, via email
Flashing pergolas
In your cover story on building a pergola (FHB #178, pp. 42-47), I was surprised to see no inclusion of, or provision for, flashing on top of the horizontal members. In my experience, this flashing has always been necessary for at least the principal load-carrying beams of any pergola designed for longevity in a climate where it rains. Then again, I don’t see flashing in any of your ads for concealed fastening systems for decks. I always use copper or aluminum on pergolas, and bituminous tape on deck framing.
—Ned Baldwin, Hastings-on-Hudson, N.Y.
Author Chip Harley replies: With three layers of horizontal surfaces capping the pergola, the use of metal flashings or bituminous tape would have been aesthetically awkward and complicated in this case. I used clear heart redwood because of its natural weather- and rot-resistance and then applied two coats of high-quality oil sealer. Here in California, it doesn’t rain between May and October. The redwood is completely dry for half the year, and it will not suffer from fungus or rot. There are numerous similar structures in my area, many of which have been exposed to the elements for 50 to 100 years. The redwood for this project was reclaimed from bridge timbers that survived without damage for years. Exposure to sunlight and UVradiation seems to be a greater problem in California. Redwood does not weather well in desert climates.
Deck-fastener correction
In my article “Deck-Fastener Options” (FHB #178, pp. 78-82), we illustrated the Deckmaster product (www.deckmaster.com) incorrectly. These brackets should be screwed into the side of the joist, not into the top as we showed. The advantage is obvious: With no holes in the top of the joist, water is less likely to penetrate and cause rot.
—Justin Fink, assistant editor
The cost of net zero
I bought your anniversary issue because of the article about the net-zero house (FHB #177, pp. 102-107). What an achievement and example for future homes. However, the cost of construction wasn’t stated. Not inexpensive, I’m sure. So my question for architect Nathan Good is: How can a not-sowealthy person apply these concepts to an affordable home?
—Ken Harris, via email
Author Nathan Good replies: A green home does not need to cost more, and may cost significantly less, than a conventional home. First and foremost, design as small a home as you could possibly live in, resulting in less material, reduced labor, and lower utility costs for heating and cooling.
Second, design your home to reduce radically the need for electricity and natural gas, which will result in smaller and less expensive heating systems and the possible elimination of mechanical cooling. This can be accomplished by designing a climate-responsive building envelope and using a site’s natural resources, primarily sunlight for heating and breezes for ventilation. Select energy-efficient lighting and appliances. Low electric loads will enable photovoltaic systems to become a cost-effective means of achieving a net-zero-energy home.
Finally, spend time researching green-building products and systems. Take advantage of state and federal tax incentives, and seek out salvaged materials, hardware, and fixtures. You’ll find that serving as the hub of information for consultants and contractors likely will result in cost savings and a better product.
Accidents happen
I eagerly await each issue of FHB so that I can find out what the self-appointed safety police are complaining about this time. Shame on you, FHB, for occasionally slipping up and showing a real job site where imperfect behavior happens. All those naive, impressionable people who are incapable of thinking for themselves will run right out and hurt themselves if they see something in your magazine that is the least bit risky. It’s all your fault.
The “don’t cut Romex with a utility knife” controversy was a classic (FHB #178, “Letters,” p. 10). Let me pass along a tip I learned in Cub Scouts over 40 years ago. Ready? “Don’t cut toward yourself.”
It’s a fact of life that if you work in construction, you’re going to get a few nicks. Get used to it, or find another occupation. Have I been careless and cut myself with a utility knife a few times? Yep. Was I so traumatized that I never used a utility knife again and considered changing careers? Nope. I put on a Band-Aid and went to work.
—Arne Waldstein, Housatonic, Mass.
Epoxy floors can be do-it-yourself
As a formulator of epoxy coatings, we have a few comments about your article on upgrading garages (FHB #176, pp. 50-55). If the concrete floor is in good condition, cleaning and etching the concrete is the most laborintensive part of the job. The rest mostly entails applying coatings with a paint roller and does not require any particular expertise.
There is a great variation in price depending on the kind of coating system used and on whether you coat the floor yourself or hire a contractor. The price per square foot that was quoted in the article was apparently an installed price. There is also a vast range of color options, but most manufacturers narrow choices to a few standards.
—Marsha Caporaso, Abatron Inc., Kenosha, Wis.
Deck Clip correction
Thank you for including The Deck Clip in your article on hidden fasteners (FHB #178, “Deck-Fastener Options,” pp. 78-82). You stated that The Deck Clip works only on hardwoods. In fact, it works with hardwoods, softwoods, and most solid composites.
—Jim Guffey, Wood Haven Inc., via email