One shim is not enough
As a longtime finish carpenter, I enjoyed Gary Striegler’s article “Plumb Perfect Prehung Doors” (FHB #202), and often found myself nodding in agreement. I especially loved the line, “Besides, using one shim is quicker.” I don’t think anyone could seriously defend intentionally setting jambs out of square as the highest-quality carpentry, but where do you draw the line between productivity and quality? I’d love to see an article on this issue, perhaps surveying tradespeople on their standards. My two cents: I would always use two shims, and who says that three shim locations per jamb side are sufficient? The longtime standard that I subscribe to is five.
—Nick Turchyn, Vashon, Washington
Btu measures energy
One of the very few complaints that I have about Fine Homebuilding is that periodically, your authors or editors make mistakes with units. The article “Is Your Heating System an Energy Beast?” (FHB #202) has just such an error.
Dave Yates states, “1 watt equals 3.4129 Btu.” A watt is a unit of power. For example, 1 hp equals slightly less than 745.7w. But a Btu is a measure of energy. For example, the energy content of 1 gal. of propane is about 91,500 Btu. Power is the rate of energy usage. So a correct statement would have been “1 watt equals 3.4129 Btu/hr” or “1 watt/hr equals 3.4129 Btu.”
—Larry Cler, via email
New rule snags editor
In a recent article in “Cross Section” (“New rule snags contractor,” FHB #200), I believe that you misstated the requirements for homeowner notification under the federal Lead-Based Paint Pre-Renovation Education Rule.
Your article states that a lead hazard information pamphlet must be delivered to the client “at least 60 days before renovations begin.” I believe that the rule states that the pamphlet must be delivered within 60 days of the start of work by the contractor but can be delivered up to the moment prior to the start of work. Also, a special rule for mailing the pamphlet states that the pamphlet must be mailed seven days prior to the beginning of work at the property and that proof of mailing must be kept by the contractor.
—Larry Hopkins, Lawrence, Kan.
Editor Brian Pontolilo replies:
Your corrections are well received, particularly when the difference between “at least 60 days” and “within 60 days” can mean the difference between a safe, profitable project and a $63,832 fine, like the one paid by the contractor in the story.
To that end, it is also important to note that even hand-delivered pamphlets require confirmation of receipt and that contractors are required to maintain disclosure records for three years. I suggest that anyone who makes a living working on older homes read the EPA’s Lead-Based Paint Pre-Renovation Education Rule handbook available at www.epa.gov/lead.
Updated tax incentives
I wanted to provide an update to Rob Moody’s “Cross Section” story, “Tax relief for energy-efficient home improvements” (FHB #202).
He notes that the residential energy-efficiency tax credit is capped at $500 and expires Dec. 31, 2009. According to the Tax Incentives Assistance Project (TIAP), homeowners can claim a tax credit of 30% for energy-efficiency improvements to existing homes up to $1500 (not $500). And this credit is available for improvements made through Dec. 31, 2010 (not 2009). It also should be noted that efficiency improvements must meet specific criteria to qualify. TIAP describes the qualification criteria and other tax-incentive details at www.energytaxincentives.org.
—Leslie Badger, Waitsfield, Vermont
Why not test Delta’s planers?
I’ve found some of your recent tool reviews lacking on two points: explanations of how tools are selected for inclusion and the differences between seemingly identical machines.
Christian Whalen’s review of thickness planers (FHB #202) is a case in point. Delta planers have been rated highly in previous reviews, so why not include Delta’s latest model?
Also, Whalen described the Steel City planer as a “newly released model,” but save for the multiple cutters, it appears identical to my older Ridgid planer. If they are the same machine, is the Steel City really worth the premium price? Better clarity on these two points would be a service to your readers.
—Jeff Keating, Cambridge, Mass.
Associate editor Justin Fink replies:
I oversee tool reviews for Fine Homebuilding, so it’s my job to make sure that we completely cover each group of tools, or explain why we limited the field.
There are currently two Delta thickness planers on the market. The 22-580 was not included in the review because it has been discontinued, with a replacement unit due sometime this year. The folks at Delta did not want to include the TP-305 in the review because they felt it was an entry-level tool not up to comparison with the other tools we tested.
As for the Steel City planer, it does seem to be a close descendant of the Ridgid TP1300LS. The higher price tag is undoubtedly due to the more complicated milling that is required to make a helical cutterhead with 26 individual knife inserts. Based on our testing, though, the new cutterhead still has a few kinks that need to be worked out.
We try to let readers know these things in the text of the article, but failed to do so in this case. Sorry for any confusion.
The trouble with step flashing
I read the “Master Carpenter” about flashing troublesome eave-to-wall intersections (FHB #202), and I take exception to the way the author nails the step flashing and the proximity of the shingle to the sidewall.
I was taught that you never nail step flashing to the sidewall because if you get any down movement in the roof, the flashing will pick up the shingles. I have seen this happen hundreds of times.
In the picture, it appears that the shingles are run tight to the sidewall. Again, I was taught that the shingle should be kept 3/4 in. to 1 in. away from the sidewall so that water and any debris can flow freely along this channel. If debris gets caught in this area, water can pool and possibly leak into the house.
—Donald F. Cerra, Aiken, South Carolina
Author Mike Guertin replies: I switched to nailing step flashing to the sidewall about 15 years ago. The practice of nailing step flashing only to the roof made sense when we framed roofs with green 2x12s and sheathed with solid-wood planks. Shrinkage would happen, and you had to account for downward movement. Shrinkage is not such an issue now that most homes are framed with dried and engineered lumber and sheathed with structural panels. Provided that the first truss or rafter is fastened to the building, any movement will be inconsequential. On reroofs, I feel confident that the building has reached a steady state.
If you think about it, the siding nails trap the step flashing anyway. If the siding nails aren’t penetrating the wall leg of the step flashing, then either the siding is not adequately fastened or the step flashing is too small. Step flashing needs a 6-in. or 7-in. wall leg to give you worry-free leak protection.
It is hard to tell from the photo how much space there is between the shingle and the step flashing. I usually go with 1.2 in., but as you suggest, a 3.4-in. to 1-in. space is fine. And not only is the space important to prevent debris from collecting, but it’s also important to allow shingles to expand without buckling.
Relocate your bath fan
If you need to keep a bathroom fan running for an hour after you’ve showered, as Mike Guertin suggests in his recent letter (FHB #201), you don’t have moisture issues, you have a design problem.
I urge my customers to buy separate light and exhaust-fan fixtures so that the light can go in the middle of the room and the fan can go above the showerhead, where it belongs. After all, you wouldn’t put the exhaust hood for your cooktop in the middle of the kitchen ceiling, would you?
—Arne Waldstein, Housatonic, Mass.
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