If you have to mix concrete with a cement mixer you could get a wheelbarrow, a shovel, and a mixing hoe; dump the concrete in, add water, drag all that concrete to one side, and then drag it back to the other side … but there’s a better way. Here’s a tip that Mike Banke posted on our website. He had to mix a bunch of concrete by hand, and rather than use a wheelbarrow, he decided he could do it faster with a 5 gallon bucket, a 1/2-inch drill, and a paddle mixer. Step 1 is to pour some clean water into a bucket, add a 60 lb. bag of concrete to the water, and then mix with the drill, starting slowly and then speeding up.
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One more addition to the thread- as noted below, one of the hazards is the bucket spinning and throwing cement or thinset or self-leveler all over. At JLC Live in Portland (Sorry FH...) I was talking to an old tilesetter and asked him how he kept the bucket from spinning. He looked at me like he was talking to a 4 year old and said, "You put one foot on the rim of the bucket..."
Use this and it won't be hard on your drill.
http://www.mud-monster.com/store/c1/Featured_Products.html
I have used this method for small batches for years, however I have found it best to first add water and then add just a little dry mix at time, mixing well, then adding more until I have the amount and consistency I want. This puts less stress on the drill...and your wrists..
MikeJ,
Now you tell me about the boots and rain pants...
FWIW, my wife's "agricultural strength vinegar" (30% acetic acid) took the thinset out of my socks. Time will tell if it also took the sock out of my socks.
I never got up to 20 bags an hour, but I did do 5 bags of self-leveler in 20 minutes.
I used a smaller mixing whip with a Ryobi rechargeable drill when leveling and repairing my basement concrete floor. Not using concrete however, mostly mortar mix and a self-leveling blend for final pour before laying slate. Now I have bigger toys . . .
Since I'm the guy who submitted this technique, please let me elaborate: I use a Milwaukee HoleHawg drill motor on low-range. I leave the whip in the bucket, add 4 quarts and one pint of water, 60 pounds of concrete, blend, rinse and repeat. I always wear my rain pants and boots as it can sometimes slop over. Also, I always keep a 5 gallon bucket of water nearby to clean the whip. I can do 20 bags in one hour.
There's one other hazard to keep in mind...
I was using my new 1/2" Chicago Electric drill motor to mix thinset in a 2 gallon bucket, holding the bucket by squeezing it with my feet, but apparently that isn't a good idea. The bucket started spinning, the thinset climbed out of the bucket and I ended up hosing down my shoes, my socks, the sidewalk, the side of the client's house and the fiver I was using for the dry thinset. Other than that, everything was great!
Like ODM says, hard on drill motors- I had to put way more than the bag-recommended amount of water in the concrete for the drill to move it. I'd try an eggbeater paddle, ( http://www.qep.com/products/professional-mixing-paddle/ )rather than the one shown- it's smaller diameter, not as hard on the drill motor.
And, yeah, I bought a "Chicago Electric" drill motor- I don't think my wife sold my 45 year old B&D, but I can't find it in my garage...
Where did you get this paddle mixer and how big was the drill?
Well... tried this tip last weekend - and killed my 1/2" drill, concrete (mixed per instructions on the bag) was way too stiff to move under the power of a drill. Not sure I'd recommend this tip.
What are we building ? Quickrete sure beats the heck out overheating my electric drill if I was lucky enough to even find it ! Oh ! okay honey I heard you - we sold it at the last yard sale !!!!!
Don't burn up your drill motor by running it too slow for too long under high torque load. Consider adding the concrete in parts. The drill is air cooled, and if it is stalled the fan doesn't move any air and current is high. With gloves on you might not notice how hot it's getting until too late.
Great tip,,,Timely for me too. Thanks