Welcome to the Fine Homebuilding podcast, our weekly discussion of building, remodeling, and design topics aimed at anybody who cares deeply about the craft and science of working on houses. This is senior editor Patrick McCombe. I’m joined by Fine Homebuilding editorial director Brian Pontolilo, Fine Homebuilding contributing editor and production manager for TDS Custom Construction Ian Schwandt, and producer Cari Delahanty. Please email us your questions to [email protected].

You can find previous podcasts and check out the show notes at finehomebuilding.com/podcast

Check In:

Ian: Gardening, Greenhouse

Patrick: Appeal for experiences with modern paint stripper.

SPARK October 25, 2025 from 10:00 am – 4:00 pm at the Eric Sloane Museum and Connecticut Antique Machinery museum 

Listener Feedback 1:

Steve writes:

I was working on tearing out the first of two fireplaces in my 1937 brick Colonial and listening to the episode when you asked listeners to share how they have dealt with masonry chimneys when trying to improve the energy performance of a house.

Living in southeast Michigan (climate zone 5), there are two main issues I’ve experienced. On the show you discussed the large hole in the building created by the flue. If you are able to permanently abandon the use of the chimney (direct-vent fireplace insert/high-efficiency gas furnace or boiler with sealed combustion chamber), you can simply remove the existing masonry cap at the top of the chimney and install a solid one. That keeps out the rain and critters and eliminates the stack-effect problem.

The other issue is harder. Due to fire prevention considerations, chimneys on the outside wall of older homes are typically masonry from the inside face to the outside face. Unless the chimney has a fireplace that is in daily use, the masonry transfers a lot of cold from the outside to the inside. To the extent they were ever airtight, that seems to go away as the chimney ages. Vapor transmission is unrestricted in both directions.

Here are a few pictures of my current work in progress. I was quite surprised when I realized that there was an underground chamber outside the exterior wall of the house.

RELATED STORIES

• Seal an Unused Fireplace
• Abandoned Chimneys and Energy Efficiency

Question 1: Do I need a vapor barrier with a ridge vent?

Alex writes:

Hello Fine Home Venting (FHV) Gang,

I have two questions for you.

1) My roof was shingled, and it looks like the roofer put some sort of smart vapor barrier under the ridge vent. I pulled and poked at it, and it feels like a loose piece of material. My first instinct is to ask the contractor to remove it, but I wanted your opinion. To me it seems like the fabric is some kind of vapor barrier that did not come as part of the ridge vent and would inhibit air movement. (This is a vented roof and not a hot roof, and it is not a vapor-diffusing port.) Thoughts?

2) My builder installed soffit vents on two small bays on the side of my house that are unvented hot roofs. I don’t think the vents hurt anything, but I don’t know if they help either. Maybe they allow some air into the overhang to help keep things dry. What are your opinions?

RELATED STORIES

• Ridge Vent Without Soffit
• Water-Vapor Control and the IRC
• Understanding Roof Vents
• Crash Course in Roof Venting

Question 2: We’re looking for a fixer-upper to update. Do you have any guidance?

Jordan and Katherine write:

Hi FHB Podcast crew,

My wife and I are moving from Denver, Colo., to the south hills of Pittsburgh this summer. We are die-hard DIYers and we’ve slowly renovated our 1954 Denver ranch house over the last five years, making every feasible mistake and learning a ton in the process. We’re new listeners to the FHB podcast and subscribers to the magazine, however, so our exposure to good building-science information has been limited.

We’re looking to move into a fixer-upper in Pittsburgh and renovate the place as time and budget allow. Thanks to your advice, our first step will be an independent energy audit.

We’re looking for guidance, both general and specific (since we know Patrick lived and built in the area for many years). As we’re shopping for our new old home, what features and characteristics should we seek out or avoid with the goal of an efficient, durable, and sustainable house post-renovation?

Thanks!

RELATED STORIES

• Strategies for Making an Old House Airtight
• Practical Ways to Electrify an Old House
• Durability Matters: Lessons from a 1960s Ranch
• PODCAST SEGMENT: Repairing an Old Home While Maintaining Its Integrity
• Lessons in How to Decarbonize an Existing Home

Question 3: Do deck ledgers need flashing if you’re using spacers?

Kerry from Westminster, Mass., writes:

Dear Great Minds at the FHB Podcast,

I have one simple question: Should deck ledger boards get flashing over the top edge if one uses spacers? I say no, but code may say otherwise. I’ve always liked spacers made of PVC or the now-code-compliant Deck2wall Spacers. I’ve not felt great about ledger flashing that guides water right into that first deck board. I’ve kerfed the deck board to let water drain, but I suspect it will get filled with debris quickly.

Thanks for your consideration of this highly OCD issue.

Sincerely,

Kerry

RELATED STORIES

• 5 Steps for Flashing a Deck Ledger
• Flashing-Free Deck Ledger

Sign up for the e-learning course A Builder’s Guide to Kitchen Design.

Unfortunately that is all the time we have for today. Thanks to Ian, Grant, and Cari for joining me and thanks to all of you for listening. Remember to send us your questions and suggestions to [email protected] and please like, comment, or review us no matter how you’re listening–it helps other folks find our podcast.

Happy Building!

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Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

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8067 All-Weather Flashing Tape

Available in 2- to 12-in. widths, this is a good general-purpose flashing tape that sticks well to most things. It features a two-piece release paper, water-shedding layers, and good UV resistance.

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