Podcast Episode 690: Sharpening, Wires Behind Baseboard, and Fixing Shingle Panels
Listeners write in about fireplaces and ask questions about sharpening hand tools, easier wiring upgrades, and fixing cedar siding.
Welcome to the Fine Homebuilding podcast, our weekly discussion of building, remodeling, and design topics aimed at anybody who cares deeply about the craft and science of working on houses. This is senior editor Patrick McCombe. I’m joined by Fine Homebuilding editorial advisor Mike Guertin, Fine Homebuilding associate editor Grant Baver, and producer Cari Delahanty. Please email us your questions to [email protected].
You can find previous podcasts and check out the show notes at finehomebuilding.com/podcast
Check In:
Grant: New boat
Mike: New shingle roof
Patrick: Built-in cabinets
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Patrick: Appeal for SPARK volunteers, presenters
October 25, 2025, 10:00 am – 4:00 pm
CT Antique Machinery Museum and Eric Sloane Museum grounds in Kent, CT
https://www.tradesup.org/events/spark-kent-2025
Listener Feedback 1: Deep thoughts on fireplaces
Dack writes:
Man (or in this case woman) must have fire. Just as cheetah must chase gazelle. It is written in the code.
Denying a million years of evolution in favor of the ersatz ACH religion and its false prophets (looking at you, Martin Holliday) is folly, and frankly kinda weird.
Listen closely toward the end of episode 679 and you can hear, if only for a minute, Brian P.’s inner Homo erectus cry out for fire. Brian, go ahead and put a stove in the corner of your living room, where it rightfully belongs. Embrace your inner Homo erectus, don’t fight him. The fire will warm your body and your soul.
And somewhere, Brian’s 30,000th great grandpa will look down with primal satisfaction.
Dack
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Question 1: What’s the best way to sharpen chisels and plane irons?
Chip writes:
Hi Podcast Team,
In the last few years, I’ve been trying to up my carpentry game. I’ve been doing more elaborate finish carpentry, built-ins, and hardwood trim. It’s nothing too crazy, but I’d call it mainstream high-end. I’ve also been trying my hand at furniture and built-ins around my house. I’ve learned that sharp hand tools really help to do good work. How do you all suggest sharpening hand tools like planes and chisels? Is there a way to sharpen that doesn’t take forever or cost hundreds of dollars?
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Question 2: How can I run wires behind baseboard for easy access?
Kit writes:
Hi Patrick and Co.,
I love the podcast! I’m a new homeowner (of an old home) and have been working my way through the back catalog of the FHB Podcast. It’s been a delight and super helpful as I think through updates to our 100+-year-old foursquare.
I’m curious about your thoughts on trim and molding. We have a mix of old trim, newer trim, and baseboard hydronic heat around the perimeters of rooms. We’ve also got balloon framing, and most of the kinds of electrical wiring I’ve heard of. Behind the baseboards seems like a great place to access and inspect electrical on each floor, and run new electrical as we upgrade things, since the baseboards are more than 8 in. high.
The actual question: Are there systems for molding that make it removable for easy regular access? This seems like it would provide benefits for electrical and plumbing work, pest inspection and management, leak detection, etc. The only things I’ve found is snap-in PVC molding for commercial settings. I’m tempted to just put plinth blocks at corners, and then hang baseboards on the walls with magnets or a routed groove in the back of the molding and some small hanger.
Is this nuts? Am I not thinking of something, like maybe air-barrier compromises? Am I doomed to just excavate holes in the plaster walls and then repair them forever? (Some of them go wood lath, plaster, wire lath, newer plaster, so I low-key hate this plan, but can live with it.)
Thanks!
Kit
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Question 3: How do I repair cedar shingle panels on a chimney chase?
I have a wood-framed chimney chase on my house. It is sided with cedar shingle panels. It appears the shingles are stapled to 1/4-in.-thick plywood panels. My guess is there’s about 2 ft. by 4 ft. Some of the shingles are coming off of their plywood backing and some are rotted. How should I fix these? Can I replace the rotten sections with conventional cedar shingles? How do I integrate the new shingles into the existing panels?
RELATED STORIES
- Replacing Cedar Shingles Video with Mike Guertin
- Installing Cedar Shingles with Shingle Panel Sidebar
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That is all the time we have for today. Thanks to Mike, Grant, and Cari for joining me and thanks to all of you for listening. Remember to send us your questions and suggestions to [email protected] and please like, comment, or review us no matter how you’re listening–it helps other folks find our podcast.
Happy Building!
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