Welcome to the Fine Homebuilding podcast, our weekly discussion of building, remodeling, and design topics aimed at anybody who cares deeply about the craft and science of working on houses. This is senior editor Patrick McCombe. I’m joined by associate editor Grant Baver, Fine Homebuilding editorial director Brian Pontolilo, and producer Cari Delahanty. Please email us your questions to [email protected].

You can find previous podcasts and check out the show notes at finehomebuilding.com/podcast

Check In:

Brian: Student-built house on a tiny lot

Grant: High-performance walls that don’t break the bank

Patrick: Gary’ Streigler’s built-ins feature “Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools” and Aaron Miiller’s upcoming feature about tool storage systems.

Listener Feedback 1:

Adam from Chittenango writes:

This isn’t in my neck of the woods, but the Ohio Scouts are building a Skilled Trades Education Center to service Cincinnati area Scouts. I looked at their plans and it looks like it is going to be awesome!

Thanks,
Adam

RELATED STORIES

• Scouting Skilled Trades Center
• Northern KY Tribune feature on Skilled Trades Center

Question 1: The effects of embodied carbon in the building code

Nik from Melville, Saskatchewan, Canada, writes:

Hey FHB,

I received this email from the Canadian Board for Harmonized Construction Codes (CBHCC). Here is the link to the proposal:

The body that develops our National Building Code is suggesting factoring in embodied greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions into the building code. That would play a role in material selection and could effectively outlaw some materials.

What are your thoughts on this?

We have a huge problem with housing affordability as it is. New home costs are at least $300/sq. ft. That price wouldn’t include the price of the land or to bring in new services. That price also wouldn’t be a well-built house using sustainable products. I would agree that we need to build better homes and that includes the materials we use, but is this moving a bit too fast considering housing affordability?

If this code addition were to become effective, it’s possible a few rigid insulation products would be outlawed—maybe spray foam and vinyl siding? Are there any other materials you think that would go?

Nik

RELATED STORIES

• GBA: Measuring Embodied Carbon
• Upfront Carbon Emissions in Home Construction
• Reduce Embodied Carbon With Simple Forms

Question 2:

Zac from Logan, Utah, writes:

Dear Patrick and the FHB podcast team,

I started renovating a home several years ago and came across Fine Homebuilding and have really enjoyed the magazine as well as all of the resources online. It wasn’t until recently that I discovered this podcast and it has been a game changer to get me thinking not only about my project but also other projects in my neighborhood. My house was built in 1900, and currently I’m working on renovating the attic space that had been turned into a living space prior to my purchase.

The question that I have is about what type of insulation to use in my home. Eventually, I would like to update the main floor as well and better insulate the entire house, but for now I’m only focusing on the upper floor. The exterior walls are 2×6 wood studs and the roof is framed using actual 2x4s and 2x6s. I’ve been looking at how I can optimize my R-value, but after listening to the podcast it’s made me question whether or not I should go for the highest R-value or not. Previously I was thinking to use foam board, but after listening further I’ve realized there may be some moisture concerns.

My house is balloon framed, and it is currently insulated using adobe brick. This has worked well and usually keeps the house cool on the main floor. However, as I’ve been repairing things I’ve noticed there have been leakages over the life of the home that has caused some of the brick to turn into mud and start to melt and settle at the bottom of the wall, pushing out the siding, and so it needs to be removed.

I’d love to know if the idea of using foam board makes sense. I calculated that I could get up to an R-26 and an R-39 in my roof and walls respectively. This being an old house, it is built with studs and the the wood siding is nailed right to the outside of those wood studs with no moisture barrier. I have recently repainted the exterior. The paint job not only looks much better, but the home is also much more protected due to a higher quality of paint and better methods. But I’m still questioning whether or not I should still use foam board targeting the highest R-value, or if I should avoid this and target a lower R-value but a more moisture-permeable type of insulation?

I live in Logan, Utah (climate zone, 6A/6B) and it can get quite cold as well as quite hot. The humidity levels are similar to the Southwest, ranging from 20%-60%. Summer brings very low humidity, with winter a bit higher, but nothing like back East.

If you could help me decide on what insulation would be best and that I could do myself, that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for sharing all of the really valuable knowledge you share.

Thanks,
Zac

RELATED STORIES

• Retrofitting Foam Insulation on a Roof
• Insulating Tight Spaces at the Eaves
• Habitable Attics
• Energy Retrofit Project Guide

FHB Summit September 18th and 19th Bringing together the most experienced and recognized professionals in their fields, the Summit promises to advance how we design and build homes and operate successful and inspiring construction companies.

Thanks to Grant, Brian, and Cari for joining me and thanks to all of you for listening. Also, a long overdue thank you to our FHB Podcast sponsors who help support the Podcast.

Please remember to send us your questions and suggestions to [email protected] and please like, comment, or review us no matter how you’re listening–it helps other folks find our podcast.

Happy Building!

Fine Homebuilding Recommended Products

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

Reliable Crimp Connectors

These reliable, high-quality connectors from Wirefy work on 10-22-gauge wire have heat-shrink insulation to keep out water and road salt.

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8067 All-Weather Flashing Tape

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Affordable IR Camera

This camera is super useful for tracking down air leaks in buildings. The one-hand pistol grip arrangement frees your other hand for steadying yourself while maneuvering tricky job sites.

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