Replies

1. 
   G.LaLonde | Jul 25, 1999 10:41pm | #2

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   I am building a home like this right now. If you are concerned about flexing at the joint, just shoot it with a good bead of construction adhesive or overlap the OSB slightly. If you are using a very heavy shingle, just heat it a little if necessary where the transition line is and it will lay down perfectly. This time of year they should practically melt into place!

2. 
   Guest_ | Jul 25, 1999 11:36pm | #3

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   Ken,

   The framer can either deck the gable roof and then taper the porch rafters and lay them on the roof as suggested, or even better, sister up the porch rafters next to the gable roof commons and nail them together.

   I would add some blocking between the gable commons if the "lay over" method is used. 7/16 OSB is a poor choice for roof decking with the rafters on 24" centers. 3/4 plywood with clips, or a least 5/8 with clips plywood would be a much better deck for laying the porch rafters on. If he is going to lay over the porch rafters over the 7/16 OSB, be sure he lays directly on top of the house rafters or puts blocking in to support the porch rafters. 7/16 OSB will probably sag in time with weight on it between rafters on 24" centers.

   I'm in Dallas, and we don't get snow here either, but we do get a serious ice storm or two.

   Ed. Williams

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 26, 1999 03:33am | #4

   *Steve, G., Ed,Thanks for your opinions. I agree that if the porch rafters are framed directly above the main roof rafters after the main roof has been decked, ("the lay over method"), then blocking wouldn't be necessary.If instead, the porch rafters are nailed alongsidethe main roof rafters, it seems that some blocking would become necessary given the materials being used and the 24" O.C. measurement. Would you agree?

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 26, 1999 05:32am | #6

   *Ken,Dont know how long your patio is but I dont think we are talking much material here. I can see the advantage in the situation you describe. I get the feeling you want to put blocking in but someone has told you it is not necessary. Think this is one of those situations where you follow your instincts. Every time you drive up, for as long as you live in the house, your eye will go to the junction of the two roof pitches. If you ever see a sag or if the shingles should tear there you will kick yourself for listening to all of us well intentioned advisors. Lot like rebar in concrete - you only notice when it is not there! If it will give you peace of mind then do it!

3. 
   Guest_ | Jul 26, 1999 05:32am | #5

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   House under construction has a typical 10/12 gable roof. There is an 8' patio that runs the entire length along the front of the house. The pitch of the roof covering this area is to be 4/12, the rafters to be supported by a beam that is set at the same heigth as the walls for the main house.

   At the point where the 4/12 rafters intersect the 10/12 rafters ( about two feet in from the walls ) what type of blocking would you recommend, if any?
   The rafters are 24" O.C. and 7/16" OSB is the sheathing. Plywood clips are used between rafters but of course it wouldn't be possible to use them at this juncture.

   We're in south Texas, no snow loads.

   Asphalt shingles are to cover the roof. How do the roofers treat this joint? Do they need blocking for some type of flashing?

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 25, 1999 09:28pm | #1

   *Ken,The house I am building now has an 8' porch that rus across the back. 4/12 porch roof transitions into 8/12 roof. Our plans (Vaughn A. Lauban Designs) do not call for blocking. Just a simple taper cut on the intersecting porch rafter. Blocking can not hurt but does not appear to be required. Don't think the roofers need anything. They will simply shingle up to the "break" and keep on going. If you have a roofing sub give him a call to see if he has any specific requirements.