We’re gonna be using Amvic, a Canadian made ICF. A nice price break for us versus the other two brands available, Logix and Arxx.
Discussing the system with the Amvic guy today (we’ve not worked with any ICF yet), he’s telling me that the corners are all-ways reversible.
That means there’s no top, no bottom, and that a block can be either rotated for use or flipped. I like that, and it is in my layout scheme.
He tells me that other ICF makers (maybe not all, maybe just a few) make the corners as RH and LH. Sounds like moronic product design to me. Is this true?
Then I go on to tell him that our plan has some stepdowns and that we will need to be bracing some small sections of wall 13′-4″ tall, and the Amvic braces are only 10′ high. He says no problem, just make a strongback tee section of 2x that’s 3′-4″ and stand the brace on it, then dual-brace the whole thing.
Is this what you do, you ICF guru?
Replies
I'm no guru, but have been invlolved with a few of these. I can say that the Logix system does use a RH and LH corner. It works very well and the overlapping courses tie together nicely. The wholeesaler figured out how many of each are needed...
As far as the bracing idea, it should work, but I would make that strongback full height so it wouldn't buckle on ya.
The rented Logix system braces work great (kind of like channel iron with a turnbuckle) they come with a scaffolding hook that hooks on to the brace and are extremely nice when you're doing the pour to work off of. (I order my rimboard so its already there and can double as the scaffolding.)
Can't comment on the other brands...
Good luck
Amvic blocks are all I have used - they are reversible, and there are vertical lines every inch, so cutting to length is a breeze.
One issue we had was they lock together like legos (this is good) but we had several sections of house that were 16' outside to outside, and the block came to 16'1", and you could only adjust by 2" increments without compromising the lego system. We ended up going with 16'1", and worked it out in the roof framing.
One thing I have never read in the tips, but its important - leave your window cuts a little play. We were making them tight, and found that the walls kept trying to get longer as we went higher, b/c the force of the buck was pushing it out. I ended up running a saw down the edge of the block where it meets the buck to bring things back in.
Brace your corners diagonally from the top in w/ 2x6's. I have found the Amvic block to be very strong, withstanding a 5" line and 'crete dropping 50'(first pour), but running a trailer pump and 3" line is much nicer on everybody. These pumps need a smaller aggregate mix, which flows better - you'll need that on the tall section!
Gene :
Amvic is a fine product, as are most 3rd generation Blocks.
I'm just a little north of you at lower elevation though. Cheers.
Edited 3/9/2007 5:30 pm ET by ericicf