I have to laminated some mirrored acrylic (plexiglass). Tried Liquid Nails mirror adhesive, but it burned through the backing.
Any of you have any experience with this? The plastics shop (TAP) says use double-stick tape, but the edge will be visible and I’m afraid the tape will be too thick.
Thanks
Bill S
Replies
Mirror Mastic--comes in a tube like caulk--formulated not to react with the silvering agents in mirrors.
Unless they are little ,save the double tape for holding till the mastic takes hold--Have seen mirrors peel away and crash from expecting to much from double stick tape.
You didn't day how large so take it for what it's worth.
Mike
"Even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while" Mitremike c. 1990
" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
Thanks for the quick reply-Maybe you missed it in my post, but this is a plastic (acrylic) mirror. TAP plastics (where I got the pieces cut) said they no longer will sell Mirror Mastic due to the problem I had of the adhesive 'burning through" the mirror backing.I just use blue tape to hold it while curing.Interestingly, one of the mirrors (plastic) I stuck is fine. The other two, I skimped on the adhesive, so they came loose. I removed 'em, then put on more Liquid Nails for Mirrors. This second application apparently caused the burn through. The second application was a new tube- possibly bad, or did the fresh adhesive react with the older, semi-cured adhesive to cause the problem?I'm thinking silicone should work, in spite of the dealer saying it's not recommended.Bill
One possibility is that the backing survived the orginal application and stuck and when the mirror came loose it took the backing with it---did you reapply fresh adhesive in the same spot as the first?Thinking that the backing left with the orginal glue exposing the acrylic surface which reacted with the fresh adhesive.Other than that I am at a loss--Maybe others with more mirror experience will chime in if this doesn't solve you problem.Mike"Even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while" Mitremike c. 1990" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
Thanks, Mike- The mirror looked fine after taking it off (after it came loose). The second ropund of adhesive was applied in new spots, but some did overlap the old spots. Burnthrough happened on the new spots.Bill
Man what a bummer--I 'll have to remember that if I ever get in your situation.I wonder why they don't reccomend silicion? Seem like less agresive stuff unless there is something in the carrier that slowly eats away at the backing.Would it be possible to coat the back with something resistant to the glue carrier. Like a vinyl film or something--Ice and Water--JK.Despeate times calls for desperate measures. Hang in there--Mike"Even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while" Mitremike c. 1990" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
I'm going to test the silicone on one of the ruined pieces- will let you know what happens- my money says it'll work.Bill
Common silicon adhesive gives of acetic acid when it cures, that is the vinegar smell. That might be the concern.You can get Neutral Cure silicons that might be better. You won't find them at a hardware or big box store.My knowledge of them is from electronics, but I think that I have seen some listed for building applications (commercial).Also you might try panel adhesives (shower enclosures). Ones that are speced to work on plastics and foam.PL Premium can be used on foam.You mentioned Lquid Nails, but the problem with that it is a brand name, not a product and they have a number of different formulations. One of which is a panel adhesive and it is solvent based. Some one does make an water based panel adhesive, but I don't remember who.
We used to apply shellac to mirrors when using silicone. Silicone would eat through the backing after a while is what I was told.
As Bill stated - you need a neutral cure (oxime cure) silicone. You can go to the GE, Dow Corning or CR Laurence Co. websites and do a search for their neutral cure silicones and sealants.
The ones I use are: Dow Corning 999-A Silcone Building & Glazing Sealant and CRL Industrial and Construction RTV408 Silicone. Both are available on-line but you will then be paying more for postage than for the silicone - but at least you will get it.
Frankie
There he goes—one of God's own prototypes—a high powered mutant of some kind never even considered for mass production. Too weird to live and too rare to die.
—Hunter S. Thompson
from Fear And Loathing In Las Vegas
Thanks for all the info- the Liquid Nails I used was Liquid Nails for Mirrors- but it specifically states on the tube not recommended for acrylic mirrors. I didn't read it first, as that was what TAP plastics recommended.TAP is replacing the damaged panels for free, by the way :)Bill
Edited 2/23/2006 1:59 am ET by PGproject