Alternate pocket screw question??
Hudson Valley Carpenter
| Posted in General Discussion on
Thanks to several recent discussions about pocket screws on BT, I just got a Mini Kreg Jig Kit in the mail and I’d like to try it out, see how to adjust it, etc.
I didn’t order screws, knowing that I have boxes of all types/sizes and figuring that there must be a number of good substitutes. So what works well in framing lumber?
Edited 10/19/2007 12:12 pm ET by Hudson Valley Carpenter
Replies
The screws really need to have a flat under the head. Roundhead and panhead screws work well. If the underside is tapered then the screws tend to pull into the wood too far.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
The main thing you need with pocket holes is screws with a flat bottom to the head rather than the typical bugle shaped screws like drywall screws. The concept is the flat part of the screw can produce a lot of pressure against the wood and joint the two pieces. You cannot get that pressure with bugle style screws because it will split the wood as the pressure increases. The pocket hole screws also have a self boring tip. You can get small packages of the screws at any woodcraft or other store that carries the kregs.
If your new to using it, you'll also need a way of clamping the mini to the wood while you are drilling the hole. There are lots of small clamps that will work fine for that. You'll love the pocket hole concept, and be getting the K3 soon.
Great answers, both. Thanks for the insights.
Oddly enough, I wasn't able to find a store nearby with a full line of Kreg stuff so I ordered the jig off Amazon.
Kreg's web site doesn't have a dealer locator. That's poor marketing these days, for a successful product that's not universally available.
I do have a variety of clamps so that shouldn't be any problem.
Lowes has the screws and basic jig..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Thanks Bill. No Lowes close by.
As my first project with the jig, I'm making up a small frame to box the sides of my pickup and temporarily raise it's aluminum cap for my move back to NYS.
That should be a good practice piece where small imperfections won't matter. I can also try different types of screws to see which of them works better.
The only place I have seen with pocketscrews in the size needed for 1.5" stock is McFeeley's.
Any good source of screws will have both coarse and fine thread items, and good explanations of which works where, and why.
The only place I have seen with pocketscrews in the size needed for 1.5" stock is McFeeley's.
I bought a box of 100 #8-2" pan heads for about $3.50 today at HD. They're fine for the job I'm doing. McFeeley's coated washer head screws are about three times that price, according to their web site. But thanks for the source anyway.
Woodcraft and Amazon both sell them online, not sure if they're rated for exterior use or not.
I use 2.5 " screw for 2x lumber and 1.5" screws for 1x. Coarse thread for softwood and fine thread for hardwood.
The screws also have a plain shaft on the back half so that the boards pull together better.
You'll want to get a vise grip type clamp with a big open mouth and flat clamping surfaces in order to move quickly from hole to hole.
You'll find yourself using it for many different purposes.
Rich
mcfeelys has a great selection of pocket screws, and plenty for 2x material. They've got lots of finishes too, including those for exterior use.
#6 Fine 1” For 1/2" material
#7 Coarse 1” For 1/2" material
#7 Fine 1-1/4” For 3/4" material
#8 Coarse 1-1/4” For 3/4" material
#8 Coarse 2-1/2” Outdoor For 1 1/2" material
As stated the underside of the head should be flat.
use square drive screws to prevent cam out.
The list above is the contents of the kreg screw kit. Not a bad kit to start with. cost about $26 -$27 and has 675 screws in it.
In addition to the McFeeley's catalog having any pocket screw you could want, there's good tips as to which screws to use in which material, thickness requirements etc.
Personally I don't like the #8 sizes for building things with - I preffer #9 or #10. Unfortunatly, the heads on those are 1/2" diameter, vs. the 3/8" that pocket hole setups drill.
Now when I need to drill a pocket hole for a screw, I chuck a 1/2" wood boring spade bit and drill it by hand. Start 90 degrees to the surface, then gently tip it to the side after the point drills in. Stop when you get the full circle of the bit cut into the wood.
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
I can get them locally.
Let me know what you need and I will be glad to send them to you.
I know you will return the favor someday.
I'm in Putnam County, Brewster.
[email protected]
Thanks Eric,
Got what I need for right now.
Brewster's a great old town. Many fine homes in the area.
ToolFreakBlue has the right information. You can also get the screws at Rockler -- I just got some yesterday, both regular and weather resistant screws for exterior work.
Billy
Coastal tool prices have proven to be the best i have found.
Thanks. I'll look for their web site.
Edit: Coastal Tool's prices on Kreg jig kits are full retail.Not surprising considering that no one else is discounting any of those products.
Edited 10/21/2007 2:27 pm ET by Hudson Valley Carpenter
To add to what others have said, you should also be sure that the screw you choose has no threads in section going through the drilled piece.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
To add to what others have said, you should also be sure that the screw you choose has no threads in section going through the drilled piece.
I agree, that's the way to achieve the optimum tightness, to draw the two pieces together. Using glue and a clamp while driving the screw, it shouldn't be important.
Considering that the Kreg screws cost about three times what a standard pan head does, I'll experiment with the pan heads first.
Right now, I'm not trying to produce a lot of fine, tight joints rapidly. I'm just going to do a small personal project which only needs a decent fit and a good glue bond to fulfill it's purpose.
Use the ones designed for pocket hole joinery.
You'll never go back.
Rich
Thanks to all for the enthusiastic advice. I'm glad to know that everyone's so stoked about the Kreg system and pocket screws in general.
When I get done with my experiment, and before I start a cabinet grade project, I'll probably want to buy the full set of jigs, clamps and hardware.
For right now I'm happy with the Mini jig, a short bar clamp, a box of #8 pan heads and some Gorilla Glue.