Replies

1. 
   Davo_ | May 17, 2001 07:52am | #1

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   Hi Federick,

   Please note that I am not a licensed electrician by trade; I'm a carpenter. I strongly suggest you contact a certified electrician in your area and have him personally take a look at your condo and check evrything out.

   I do know that with aluminum wiring, YOU MUST ONLY USE switches and receptacles marked CO/ALR. No other switches or receptacles are allowed to be hooked up to aluminum wire.

   These designated switches & Recepts (marked CO/ALR) are attached DIRECTLY to the aluminum wire. I don't think you need to use No-OX paste with these connections, since these particular devices are rated for aluminum wire use only, and oxidation between the connections should not be a problem.

   At one time,swicthes and recepts marked AL-CU were used with aluminum wiring, HOWEVER, since 1971 these AL-CU devices ARE NO LONGER PERMITTED to be used. It was found that the AL-CU devices didn't work properly with the aluminum, and that fires would occur with their use. Check your current electrical switches and receptacles and note if any are AL-CU rated. IF so, discard these and install the CO/ALR instead.

   Copper and aluminum contract and expand at different temperatures, and when they heat up due to current flow, they slowly begin to loosen up where connected; which later leads to arcing, and then fire. I am unsure (which is why you need to verify with certified electrician), but I do not believe copper and aluminum splices are allowed.

   You mentioned your light fixtures "flashing." If "flashing" means "arcing" you need to shut these circuits down and remove anmd inspect those fixtures. Sounds like the connections between the fixture and the wire is loosening up; which is dangerous.

   You may have to use special rated fixtures with the aluminum wire; infact I believe you must, but again , wise to first check with a pro.

   As for special type of wire nuts, I am sorry, but I don't have an answer for you.

   My only real experience with aluminum wiring is only with main feed entrance cable; which is installed in your panel box. As far as whole house aluminum wiring like yours', I have not had to deal with that situation.

   Don't jeopardize the safety of your building and its occupants with a possible fire hazard. Seek out professional inspection and advice.

   Davo.

1. 
   CaseyR_ | May 17, 2001 10:39pm | #2

   *You may want to check out:http://www.inspect-ny.com/aluminum/awrepair.htmThere have been some pretty detailed discussions of this topic in the past here on Breaktime. Unfortunately, it will probably take a lot of digging with the SEARCH function to find them.

1. 
   bake_ | May 18, 2001 01:29am | #3

   *Fredrick; You are right in using the compound when aluminum and copper (or any other dissimilar metal) form a junction. If I was you I would look real serious at a complete rewire, other than that I remember it was recommended that the splices all be retightned yearly....Now there's a chore in itself! Another thing you may want to do if you are not able to rewire is replace all the wire nuts (marrettes) with a high quality ones such as Ideal brand XLPE'sGood LuckDon

1. 
   Cliff_Popejoy | May 18, 2001 02:27am | #4

   *Frederic, Davo has an excellent handle on the issue (for a carpenter...). Let me add a few things:1. The purple Ideal connectors (wire nuts) are in packaging that says that they are UL listed for making Al to Cu connections. The aluminum wiring website says that they weren't tested in this use before listing, and that subsequent testing suggests they are not adequate for this. Who to believe? 2. The website provides good info on how to make a copper-to-aluminum splice using anti-ox compound and Scotchlock wire nuts, but cautions that the federal Consumer Product Safety Commission holds the position that only an AMP-licensed, professionally installed splice, the Copalum, is adequate for this use. If you're going to spend the $$ for the Copalum splicing throughout, you might as well rewire. The cost won't be that much higher.3. I'll weigh in with the others and recommend a total branch-circuit rewire. Heavy gage aluminum to stove, cooktop, etc, is O.K. if cleaned and No-ox coated and tightened to spec. If it's your home, re-wire and do it right; the life you save might be your own. If it's someone else's (or you're going to sell it), you have the obligation to not provide an inherently defective product. The only situataion in which I'd use the paste/Scotchlok splicing is for a client who had an unsafe situation (like arcing splices), absolutely could not afford a rewire, and who understood the issues (and signed a statement that they understood the situation and directed you to use a reasonably sound but non-UL-listed wirenut for the application).4. Hope you're doing this with a building permit. If you use listed switches and outlets and make your splices with the devices, and can get the inspector on board for the alternative splicing method where oyu can't (like fixture wires), that would be ideal. If you can't get the inspector to endorse your approach, and there is a fire later, you'll be more exposed to liability.Good luck.

2. 
   Frederick_Van_Magness | May 18, 2001 02:27am | #5

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   I am renovating a townhouse condo built in the late 1960's and found it to be completely wired with aluminum branch circuits. I'd like to replace it with copper, but it is very impracticable. I have run some new lines where I can access the walls/ceilings...particularly all the kitchen. How do I make the rest of it safe? Can I use Co/Alr recepticles and switches with a non oxidize paste directly to the aluminum? Or should I add copper pigtails ?? What type of wirenuts should be used if there are any copper to Aluminum splices?? I see lots of flashing in ceiling light fixtures.